What size tractor can we get by with?

[paulsharvey]

You hit the nail on the head. We need a reliable tractor. Do I want to buy a 30k tractor…no. Oddly, although we are only at 2000 feet in the pacific NW we can and do get a lot and I mean a lot of heavy, wet snow. we have a 700 foot driveway and getting it cleared can literally mean life or death for us as we negotiate our elder years.

I read up on water in hydraulics and it seems like the dealer did not change any filters…. my bill was $137 for fluid and $437 labor, $65 dollars shop supplies plus $$ for transport but no mention of filters…should they be cleaned or replaced?

When they came to take the tractor back to the shop the transport guy noted the loader was working very slow and stuttering which I believe might be a symptom of air in the the lines.

Bottom line, the tractor did not have the care it should have. My father was a backyard tractor dealer and my mother bought this Kubota for herself. Neither of them were much on upkeep.

All hydraulic hoses were replaced and leaking loader cylinders rebuilt in the past two years. Tractor has since only minimal work load since those repairs were done. That local place that did the work went out of business when new owners got outbid for the Kubota dealership. This is my first experience with a Kubota dealer. They have a good reputation Based on input for locals.

Not 100% sure on your model; my old machine had no filter, but a reusable stainless mesh screen, and that would absolutely need to be cleaned after water got in hydralics. If yours had a filter and screen, I would definitely want to clean the screen (brake fluid, diesel, kerosene, and a no lint cloth), as well as replace the filter.

One issue, can be, if somehow air is getting into the suction line. There might not even be a visible fluid leak, but that will prevent enough fluid from making it to the pump, and you might find the pump gets Hot after it's starved for fluid. Not run it long in that condition, but start it up, cycle controls for a bit, and as the hydralics stop working, feel the pump.

 

[paulsharvey]

What I would do, in your situation; clean filters, and check fluid level. It Should be something simple on the B. Get it working, and talk to a dealer about trade in value. I would also consider listing it on Marketplace for sale. I'm guessing it's a $6k roughly machine in good working order? Probably trade in value of $4k? Look at the L2502/CK2610(2620 is the newer version), TYM2515; and then see what the price jump is to a Ck3510/TYM3515, ect. I like my HST, But I would have preferred a power shuttle. A 25hp in those body sizes will be a power upgrade, and a world more convenient, and easier to budget around $300-350/month payments than one off major repair bills on the current B.

Apparently you have a good Kubota and Deere dealer; (assuming they deal in these CUT machines; some Deere and Kubota dealers sell them, but view the small machines as an irritation, focusing on Ag/construction), see what they have both new and used, few years old. Also, it's worth googling local tractor dealers, lot of times you would be surprised by some closer than you think, that you haven't driven past, off the main roads. Wouldnt be afraid of a TYM/Kioti/Massey;

 

[Yander]

There are lots of decent used Tractors out there. Check Facebook marketplace

I think you want a small compact like
Yanmar SA 324 or 424. If you can find one used they are usually priced Right. They have a good lift capacity and they're compact.

 

[Panik]

The factors you listed are all important to us. Hopeful that straight through end to end will alleviate the tight spacing considerations in my sheep barn.

We are limited in servicing dealers within reasonable transport distance and we don’t have the facilities, tools or capability in during mechanical work. We are in our mid 70s and muscling off seized bolts it’s no longer in our list if things we do with ease.

Our dealer choices are Kubota, John Deere and what I call a second tier dealer who services Brandon, Yanmar, New Holland and they are apparently awful as I have literally never seen so many one star reviews for any company.

Given your description of conditions... I can't in good faith suggest you go with a subcompact tractor, especially given the existing conditions leading to your concerns about winter safety and access.

Things that immediately pop into my mind:

- Is a cab tractor a possibility given added costs and the need to fit into a sheep barn? I'm only 46, but if I was older and had to deal with clearing heavy snow on a driveway the warmth provided by a cab might start leaning towards a safety consideration while working in the winter.

- I don't have experience with John Deere, but from reading I doubt you can go wrong either way between Kubota and Deere..... for me it would come down to personal preferences on models and local costs for models, ergonomics and dealer support/rapport.

- In looking at model offerings I would add width between wheels and/or the ability to adjust tractor stance as a consideration given your description of your local geography.

 

[rScotty]

You hit the nail on the head. We need a reliable tractor. Do I want to buy a 30k tractor…no. Oddly, although we are only at 2000 feet in the pacific NW we can and do get a lot and I mean a lot of heavy, wet snow. we have a 700 foot driveway and getting it cleared can literally mean life or death for us as we negotiate our elder years.

I read up on water in hydraulics and it seems like the dealer did not change any filters…. my bill was $137 for fluid and $437 labor, $65 dollars shop supplies plus $$ for transport but no mention of filters…should they be cleaned or replaced?

When they came to take the tractor back to the shop the transport guy noted the loader was working very slow and stuttering which I believe might be a symptom of air in the the lines.

Bottom line, the tractor did not have the care it should have. My father was a backyard tractor dealer and my mother bought this Kubota for herself. Neither of them were much on upkeep.

All hydraulic hoses were replaced and leaking loader cylinders rebuilt in the past two years. Tractor has since only minimal work load since those repairs were done. That local place that did the work went out of business when new owners got outbid for the Kubota dealership. This is my first experience with a Kubota dealer. They have a good reputation Based on input for locals.

No, the person who sayid it might be air in the system is wrong. On an open hydraulic system, stuttering is a symptom of suction leak or plugged filter. The B8200 has that sort of simple "open hydraulic system". It is called "open" because it is vented to the atmosphere i.e. open to the air. Because of that, it will purge any air in the line in less than a minute.
Only closed systems really suffer from entrained air in the pressure side - and only a few of the larger tractors use a closed hydraulic system...mostly JDs.

From your description of what is happening, you need to replace the hose between the sump and the hydraulic pump inlet - this does not have to be high pressure type of hose but could be if the fittings fit. But it must be a new hose with new rubber so that it seals against suction air leaks. And replace those filters!!

Over the years now since I joined in 2001, I've noticed that many people who come onto the forum like you end up a year or two later owning two tractors. Frankly I'd be looking at another tractor for your driveway and winter - maybe something with a cab and that will pull a real 8' rear blade with manual tilt, angle, & offset, The winter and driveway tractor could even be a nice used 60 hp Ag tractor with 2wd with chains on the rear tires. AndI'd bet you could find it with a cab. Once you accept that it is a winter & driveway machine specifically to protect your access then your options open up a lot. A whole lot

Then you could and keep the B8200 as your "yard and chore tractor". You will get it right eventually as you learn more about them. Hopefully it has the optional Power Steering that was available on the B8200.
Only if it has a loader, but does not have power steering would I get rid of it. If it has PS, best to keep it.
You can't touch anything similar for the money you have in that B8200 even if you have to add 50% in the next few years. Think how many options two tractors gives you.
You will get as much reliability by having two good used ones as one new one. And can do so much more for less total investment. Up until about 2012 when the emissions requirements required cost-cutting, all the name brand tractors were made to last a lifetime.
Luck,
rScotty

 

[drumminj]

Awesome.
I remember when Kubota was offering 20% discount on the tractor and implements using the NCHA membership.

Those were the good old days

 

[Stormy873]

Those were the good old days

 

[Stormy873]

There are lots of decent used Tractors out there. Check Facebook marketplace

I think you want a small compact like
Yanmar SA 324 or 424. If you can find one used they are usually priced Right. They have a good lift capacity and they're compact.

We would be looking at a compact tractor... The sub compact would not work for us. I Know buying used would be best but I have an in depth knowledge of the average folks selling used tractors.

My dad was a less than honest backyard tractor dealer/trader and my mom was a horse trader but at least she was honest. You could say I was raised by wolves and not be far off.

 

[Stormy873]

No, stuttering is a symptom of suction leak or plugged filter. The B8200 has an "open hydraulic system" as in in "vented" or "open to the air". Because of that, it will purge any air in the line in less than a minute.
Only closed systems really suffer from entrained air in the pressure side - and only the larger tractors use a closed hydraulic system...mostly JDs.
You need to replace the hose between the sump and the hydraulic pump inlet - this does not have to be high pressure type of hose but could be if the fittings fit. But it must be a new hose with new rubber so that it seals against suction air leaks. And replace those filters!!

Over the years now since I joined in 2001, I've noticed that many people who come onto the forum like you end up a year or two later owning two tractors. Frankly I'd be looking at another tractor for your driveway and winter - maybe something with a cab and that will pull a real 8' rear blade with manual tilt, angle, & offset, The winter and driveway tractor could even be a nice used 60 hp Ag tractor with 2wd with chains on the rear tires. AndI'd bet you could find it with a cab. Once you accept that it is a winter & driveway machine specifically to protect your access then your options open up a lot. A whole lot

Then you could and keep the B8200 as your "yard and chore tractor". You will get it right eventually as you learn more about them. Hopefully it has the optional Power Steering that was available on the B8200.
Only if it has a loader, but does not have power steering would I get rid of it. If it has PS, best to keep it.
You can't touch anything similar for the money you have in that B8200 even if you have to add 50% in the next few years. Think how many options two tractors gives you.
You will get as much reliability by having two good used ones as one new one. And can do so much more for less total investment. Up until about 2012 when the emissions requirements required cost-cutting, all the name brand tractors were made to last a lifetime.
Luck,
rScotty

You suggestion would be the ideal but under the circumstances not something we can pursue. We are getting older and we are bucking the tide because we don’t want to spend our last days sitting at a casino or living in town. BUT, we are trying to cut back in the equipment have to manage and house. We have room to store one tractor in the barn. In my part if the Willamette Valley garages and such are in short supply. Even my 4 runner sits outside….unfortunately we also have deep snow so we aren’t like the flatlanders that just deal with rain. Buying a new tractor was NOT on my bingo card. We were planning to build a machine shed.

 

[rScotty]

You suggestion would be the ideal but under the circumstances not something we can pursue. We are getting older and we are bucking the tide because we don’t want to spend our last days sitting at a casino or living in town. BUT, we are trying to cut back in the equipment have to manage and house. We have room to store one tractor in the barn. In my part if the Willamette Valley garages and such are in short supply. Even my 4 runner sits outside….unfortunately we also have deep snow so we aren’t like the flatlanders that just deal with rain. Buying a new tractor was NOT on my bingo card. We were planning to build a machine shed.

Sounds to me like you have talked yourself into a new tractor. What confused me is it sounded to me like you were against the expense - so I offered options. Although the options would work, I can't really speak against buying new since we went shopping for a new machine back in 2008 - after 50 years of rural life and used equipment. We still have the new one we bought, it works perfectly, and it has been a tremendous help around the place. I really don't expect it to need much or anything in the next few decades. Good ones don't.

The price we paid 15 years ago was $50K for a basic model, no cab no down, no interest, 5 years.
Yes, that seems inexpensive by comparison with similar TLBs today. My only regret is that we didn't outfit it with even more options and accessories back when tractors and loans were so inexpensive.

All of our equipment sits outside. It doesn't seem to hurt them. We have relatively mild climate here at 7000 ft in the northern Rockies. I just shovel enough snow to get to the block heater and the ignition key. After that it can take care of itself.

rScotty