What the heck tool to get these hydraulic lines off?

[LouNY]

You can use your air hammer with a flat hammer on it and just put it on the very end of the flat and hammer in the direction to remove it,
or a very dull chisel.

 

[nyone]

I have used both heat and an air chizzle to remove fittings rusted though the threads and down to the actual sealing part on JIC fittings. Both will work..but sonetimes you need both on the same fitting.

 

[fried1765]

I'm always open to new tricks, but I'm not visualizing how you'd do this with an impact chisel.

Actually, I'm more intrigued by your comment as a way to loosen a pesky fitting. I have one right now on my 26 y/o B2150 where an FEL hydraulic hose connects to a rusted male 90-degree JIC fitting that's brazed/welded to a hard line on the top of the torque tube. I can get open-end wrenches on both fittings, but it's hard to keep the hard line from twisting as I apply steady pressure to the hose-end fitting. If I damage the weld, it will become a big problem. The hose seems fine for now, so I've avoided further efforts on the "not broke, don't fix it" principle.

I was thinking that maybe a crow's foot wrench chucked onto a 3/8" impact wrench, or onto a 1/4"-to-3/8" adapter in a more gentle impact driver might do the trick. Hadn't thought of an air chisel.

See post #21 also.
Same suggestion as mine.

I used a pneumatic chisel to get my hoe line fittings both on and off.
Need to be somewhat careful putting them on using the air chisel.

The process will leave a small chisel mark on each new fitting.
Not a Rembrant job, but very acceptable, and very simple.

 

[Oldoak]

Heat the nut of the JIC fitting to a dull red on one or two flats.Let it cool then disassemble with your open end wrenches.

I believe that would be quite effective. Be sure to power wash all the grease, oil, and other gunk well away before doing any open flame torch work. Small grease fires in hard to reach areas don't remain small for long. :shocked:

 

[stuckmotor]

You can use your air hammer with a flat hammer on it and just put it on the very end of the flat and hammer in the direction to remove it,
or a very dull chisel.

My grandfather used to use the dull chisel method as a last resort. I think he learned it when many nuts were square. He had some large nuts around the farm that were rectangular not square.

 

[Seven Gables]

Being that that hose is facing up I wouldn't cut it first . As you cut you would be dropping fine steel cuttings into what looks to be your rotary Union below. If you take the seals out of that or any other hydraulic components you've got a lot worse to deal with. B

 

[Threepoint]

See post #21 also.
Same suggestion as mine.

I used a pneumatic chisel to get my hoe line fittings both on and off.
Need to be somewhat careful putting them on using the air chisel.

The process will leave a small chisel mark on each new fitting.
Not a Rembrant job, but very acceptable, and very simple.

Learned a new trick today. Thanks!

I can see why you emphasize to be careful. :laughing:

 

[Threepoint]

I believe that would be quite effective. Be sure to power wash all the grease, oil, and other gunk well away before doing any open flame torch work. Small grease fires in hard to reach areas don't remain small for long. :shocked:

Oldoak and RickB, thanks for the suggestion of a torch. Don't mean to hijack the OP's thread! :laughing:

I'd considered that, but the welded/brazed 90-degree fitting and the attached hose ascend vertically from the rigid hard line, so there's no way to purge the hydraulic oil from the joint beforehand. Would be nervous about heating the fitting to cherry red with the oil inside.