what to do before slab is poured for shop

[studor]

Like Ezliven I could think of some people I might want to contribute as fill

The floor drains are a good idea but a well I would thing about more conduit from the wall where you plan to mount your box to spots in the middle of the floor where you might want walls or at least power in the future.

 

[kenstrac]

I agree with other post about sloping area by door and a vapor barrier also increase floor thickness in the area if you plan to put in a lift or a crane.
The floor drains in my state would be a problem you have to jump too many hoops to have them with DES, better check your local and state laws.

 

[matt_isserstedt]

If you ever think about wanting a twin-post automotive lift then research and layout the center spacing and "attaching plate" size. IMHO, good practice is a 6" minimum floor thickness - go a foot larger in every direction as the cost is peanuts now in extra concrete.

Also I'd add 1" PVC sch 40 (water/plumbing) and 1" PVC 90 degree sweeps all over the perimeter. Glue caps to both ends and leave stubs. This way you can run water or electrical to any side at any time in the future simply by digging up the horizontal stub and cutting off the caps. Cost up front is minimal - cost later is gonna be high. I've even considered some PEX in case an air line was needed outside and couldn't be snaked out and around thru the doors.

Personally...I think washing a vehicle inside a building is a recipe for a dirty interior and rusted metal (tools, etc). I realize my location is not "up north" but I've done plenty of miles up there too.

 

[Ridgewalker]

I am assuming your finishing out a bath since you mentioned a sink and commode. You should also include a shower drain.

And what about yet another drain outside the bath for a slop sink? I guess you could finish out the bath, put the slop sink on the other side
of the wall from the sink and port thru the wall...just a thought.

 

[JB4310]

That's a nice size shop, I would go with 6" the whole floor with vapor barrier and wire mesh. I had a 50x60 shop, it had floor drains which made it nice for hosing equipment off even in the winter.

If I were building myself your size I would have at least one drain in there, right in the middle of your drive-in bay. Maybe run some water line to the far ends of the building for faucets. Also some eye bolts set in the concrete so you have an anchor point to slip a chain or cable thru for locking things to. maybe some anchor points in the floor with covers over them so you can pull on them kinda like a frame straightener set up.

At one time I would of said a mechanics pit, I always wanted one of those growing up, but I guess they are kinda dated these days. In that shop I had the guy built a huge one for truck maintenance, it was about16 ft long had a 4 ft cantilevered side where you could keep tool boxes and supplies, also had a floor drain and a gravity system to drain oil into a waste oil tank outside.
Never used the pit just covered it with plywood and used it for a basement.

Good luck, get some pictures.

JB.

 

[jeep67]

It is always a good idea to place a minimum of two deadman anchors in your floor, particularly if you ever plan to use your shop to work on heavy equipment. We can discuss on how to do it if you are interested.

 

[buck12]

I agree with other post about sloping area by door and a vapor barrier also increase floor thickness in the area if you plan to put in a lift or a crane.
The floor drains in my state would be a problem you have to jump too many hoops to have them with DES, better check your local and state laws.

Don't want to hijack this thread but it seems from reading various threads lately that northeastern states require a permit or have a law against everything. Too much big brother for this southerner.

 

[CurlyDave]

Put in an area for a washer and drier, with all the utilities they need.

Sooner or later your wife will want a new set and you can put the old ones in the shop. The ability to wash greasy rags, coveralls, etc. in your own dedicated machine will be much appreciated by DW.

 

[Gem99ultra]

I'd want some 2" PVC ran across both ways under the slab for possible future use, either electricity, water, or air. You never know... and PVC is dirt cheap. Just bury it and cap it if you don't know what you'd want if for now. You will some day.

Floor drains are a good idea, but be sure you know where that water is going to go, and what will be in it. You don't want to be dumping lots of stuff in a septic or public sewer.

Nice size shop you're building. Keep us posted on the progress please.

 

[flusher]

I am having a 50x50 shop being built. They have the forms set. I already put in the pipes for a future toilet and sink and ran a conduit for the lectrical coming in. Any thing else I should consider putting in before they pour the slab?

Before I poured the slab for my 24x42 ft shop, I had to connect a 4/0 cable to the rebar to satisfy the building code for electric ground. Also, 6-mil black Visqueen plastic vapor barrier was installed over the gravel base.