what to do with my rotary shredder
- Thread starter ch1ch2
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Gary Fowler
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- Bismarck Arkansas
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- 2009 Kubota RTV 900, 2009 Kubota B26 TLB & 2010 model LS P7010
That doesn't look like "light duty" to me what with the I beam sides. I cant tell about the deck thickness but it is well reinforced so at minimum I would say it is medium duty depending on the HP rating of the PTO shaft and gear box. It looks like a new stump jumper would have you back in business. If caught in time, it could have easily been repaired but since you are missing one side of the stump jumper, now I would just buy a new part complete with new blades. Agri-Supply might have all you need to fix it assuming that the gear box isn't damaged (shaft bent etc.) it should cost more than $200 to have a like new underside.
LD1
Epic Contributor
I have seen far worse bushhogs being used and fixed.
Its not a bad mower, and 6' even better.
They are indeed light duty though, IIRC, a 12ga top, the sides are VERY light duty i-beam, and the a-frame is indeed a weak link on those. They need some extra metal welded to them for re-enforcement. But it is a good cutting cutter.
Gearbox is probably the 40HP version, but was offered in 60 as well. Gearbox was 1.47 ratio, so a ~15k FPM blade tip speed is pretty darn good + they have a high lift blade instead of a flat cutter blade.
Like I said, phenominal at cutting pasture grass......what they were made for, and when you really dont need to lug around a 1300# 6' cutter, because the 650-700# unit works just fine
Its not a bad mower, and 6' even better.
They are indeed light duty though, IIRC, a 12ga top, the sides are VERY light duty i-beam, and the a-frame is indeed a weak link on those. They need some extra metal welded to them for re-enforcement. But it is a good cutting cutter.
Gearbox is probably the 40HP version, but was offered in 60 as well. Gearbox was 1.47 ratio, so a ~15k FPM blade tip speed is pretty darn good + they have a high lift blade instead of a flat cutter blade.
Like I said, phenominal at cutting pasture grass......what they were made for, and when you really dont need to lug around a 1300# 6' cutter, because the 650-700# unit works just fine
OP
ch1ch2
Veteran Member
This cutter was going to be scrap, but now I am reconsidering.
Getting the right parts is a concern.
Earlier I said it was a King Kutter, but I am now not sure. KK and County Line are both yellow with their name and logo.
This one is red and has the TSC name and logo. I was thinking KK made it but I am not sure.
As LD1 pointed out I may be able to fix it for $200. Thats a lot cheaper than buying a new cutter.
I sent an email to TSC customer service to see if I can get the right parts. Even if they can't help, all I may need to do is get the right size stump jumper for the output shaft.
Getting the right parts is a concern.
Earlier I said it was a King Kutter, but I am now not sure. KK and County Line are both yellow with their name and logo.
This one is red and has the TSC name and logo. I was thinking KK made it but I am not sure.
As LD1 pointed out I may be able to fix it for $200. Thats a lot cheaper than buying a new cutter.
I sent an email to TSC customer service to see if I can get the right parts. Even if they can't help, all I may need to do is get the right size stump jumper for the output shaft.
LD1
Epic Contributor
I am about 99.9% sure its a KK mower.
The deck braces, on the back half of the cutter going toward the tailwheel angle out. Kinda form a Trapezoid, and a nice radiused bend at the back. KK is the only one that does that. Country line, and IMC (the other two mowers I know TSC sold), the braces ran straight back just like they do in the front going up to the a-frame.
Rural king was the best place I found for getting blades, bolts, and stump jumper. But I have them local here. Shipping may be the deal breaker there and may be able to get cheaper online.
The blade bolts I think are just generic. I have a bushhog 306, A KK 5', A bushhog 105, and a IMC IM600 mower. They all use the same bolts. Just bought a set on ebay for ~$20. Rural king has them for ~ the same price
The blades are part # 501130 and cost me $47.99+tax at rural king for the set. A 5 pack of shear bolts is $7.49. The stump jumper, assuming a 40HP gearbox, is $100
Why do you need new blades???
Even with new blades + bolts + stump jumper.....should be ~$170. And rural king advertises free shipping on orders over $100
The deck braces, on the back half of the cutter going toward the tailwheel angle out. Kinda form a Trapezoid, and a nice radiused bend at the back. KK is the only one that does that. Country line, and IMC (the other two mowers I know TSC sold), the braces ran straight back just like they do in the front going up to the a-frame.
Rural king was the best place I found for getting blades, bolts, and stump jumper. But I have them local here. Shipping may be the deal breaker there and may be able to get cheaper online.
The blade bolts I think are just generic. I have a bushhog 306, A KK 5', A bushhog 105, and a IMC IM600 mower. They all use the same bolts. Just bought a set on ebay for ~$20. Rural king has them for ~ the same price
The blades are part # 501130 and cost me $47.99+tax at rural king for the set. A 5 pack of shear bolts is $7.49. The stump jumper, assuming a 40HP gearbox, is $100
Why do you need new blades???
Even with new blades + bolts + stump jumper.....should be ~$170. And rural king advertises free shipping on orders over $100
OP
ch1ch2
Veteran Member
GOOD INFORMATION!
THANKS
I know the old blades are worn and chipped. Maybe a balance issue contributed to the stump jumper breaking. I am sure it was metal fatigue failure since the thin round soft metal part did not fail and the large hardened part did. Anyway they are original and it would not hurt to replace them.
Are shaft size and splines common and easy to differentiate?
I have dealt with Rural King before and I like them and their prices.
LD1
Epic Contributor
Easy to differentiate. Don't remember the spline count, but IIRC, output shaft size on the 40hp is something like 1.57" and the 60hp is 1.97
newbury
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After seeing the pics, fix it.
I've seen ones like that on CL labeled "lightly used". The deck doesn't seem to pass light, so it's not even "lightly rusted".
aczlan
Good Morning
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It looks almost like the welds holding the bar to the flange that connects to the output shaft broke. Might be able to have someone weld it up for you.
Aaron Z
Aaron Z