What to look for in a compound miter saw?

2LaneCruzer · May 9, 2016

True. Nothing like looking afterward and seeing it lying on the floor.

bigtiller · May 9, 2016

Some time in the 80's, the guy beside be was being trained to run a metal cutting bandsaw. He didn't last 15 minutes before he cut his left thumb off. The set-up man was standing right beside him when it happened and later said he nearly lost his breakfast.

MinnesotaEric · May 9, 2016

N80 said:
I'm in the market for a miter saw. I have a variety of projects coming up that will make one very very handy but I don't really know what I need. I'll be facing some exterior deck stairs (risers), building a trellis and a small picket fence, probably building some interior, simple book shelves and building bed rails for the pocket stakes on my trailer, etc. etc. etc.

Yes, I could be doing a lot of this with a circular saw, and I always have, but I think I'd get better results, faster, with a sliding chop saw.

I will not be cutting much, if any, molding.

I'm pretty sure I want a 12" and fair power (15 amp?) as I will be cutting some treated lumber and possible some 4x4s. I want the sliding type as well.

Other than that I don't know what to look for. I don't even know what single bevel vs double bevel means. Any advice much appreciated.

I really like my 12" Milwaukee compound slider saw. I have it mounted on a Bosch gravity rise table which requires no bending over whatsoever to set up.

I've seen, but not tried to use the new all gear Bosch compound slider saw, and that interests me, but my Milwaukee has a neat digital readout that makes fine, finishing trim cuts work well. Moreover, I like that the mitre is set on ballbearings so it literally glides.

I've had my saw since 2007 or 2008. You can read the reviews at Amazon. Milwaukee 6955-2 12-Inch Sliding Dual Bevel Miter Saw with Digital Miter Angle Fine Adjust - Power Miter Saws - Amazon.com

A saw I'd look at is the new Bosch. I'd miss the digital read out for finish work, but the Bosch saw my be the hot ticket for what your intended use is.

GCM12SD | 12 In. Dual-Bevel Glide Miter Saw | Bosch Power Tools

No matter what 12" saw you get, mate it to a Bocsh gravity rise table. Trust me on this!

Bosch T4B Gravity-Rise Miter Saw Stand - Power Tool Stands - Amazon.com

N80 · May 9, 2016

Someone early in the thread mentioned getting or building a saw table/stand. I skipped that and just made do when cutting long pieces but it is so much of a pain that all the efficiency of the saw itself is lost. The one in the video would be awesome but my budget was already stretched. I saw a Ryobi stand at a big box store for $99. It is cheap, no frills. No wheels and fairly heavy. However, it is very sturdy and folds down neatly so I'm pleased with it. If I were on the move with this sort of saw one of the ones like in the video would be worth every penny.

gsganzer · May 12, 2016

The best thing I ever bought with my saw was a stand. Mines an older model of this one. It's been worth every penny.

Ridgid Mobile Miter saw stand

EddieWalker · May 12, 2016

I use my tailgate and an adjustable roller stand when on the job. At home, my workbench is lowered for my saw with 8 feet in either direction of bench to support what I'm cutting, and for longer stuff,there is 8 more feet of open air after the bench ends off to the right.

k0ua · May 12, 2016

Wow! that Bosch stand is really something. If I was a carpenter and moving tools around I would have one of those.

As to the laser thing, I guess I don't understand it's usefulness. I have always just gently set the static blade down on the work to see where the teeth of the blade will hit on the mark. I don't understand how a laser could make this any better or more precise?:confused3: I just don't see the need for it.

prichard · May 12, 2016

James, my laser has never been accurate. Maybe it's adjustable but like you I don't see the point. Mark board, lower saw. Since you actually have to start saw to see the laser you'd have to wait for saw to stop or move board around under moving blade to adjust anyway.

k0ua · May 12, 2016

prichard said:
James, my laser has never been accurate. Maybe it's adjustable but like you I don't see the point. Mark board, lower saw. Since you actually have to start saw to see the laser you'd have to wait for saw to stop or move board around under moving blade to adjust anyway.

That is what I thought.

LD1 · May 12, 2016

Alot of times I dont even mark a board when using my miter saw. (Mine dont have a laser either.)

Rather I'll clip the tape on the left end of the board, string it past where I need to cut, and lock the tape. Lower the sawblade (not running) and line up precisely with the tapemeasure. Then holding the board firm to the back of the saw with my left hand so it dont move, remove tape with right hand and cut.

Kinda hard to describe, but IMO its easier, and more precise, than marking then cutting

k0ua · May 12, 2016

LD1 said:
Alot of times I dont even mark a board when using my miter saw. (Mine dont have a laser either.)

Rather I'll clip the tape on the left end of the board, string it past where I need to cut, and lock the tape. Lower the sawblade (not running) and line up precisely with the tapemeasure. Then holding the board firm to the back of the saw with my left hand so it dont move, remove tape with right hand and cut.

Kinda hard to describe, but IMO its easier, and more precise, than marking then cutting

I often do the exact same thing. I never understood how the laser line could do anything for me.

Egon · May 12, 2016

If cutting angles and you have them marked with a line the laser may give confirmation accuracy of the saw settings.

LD1 · May 12, 2016

Egon said:
If cutting angles and you have them marked with a line the laser may give confirmation accuracy of the saw settings.

Yea, I can see that.

But my confirmation is lowering the saw, (not running) and sliding it across the cut line. If the saw teeth walk perfect down my marked line, good to go. If not, adjust as necessary

k0ua · May 12, 2016

LD1 said:
Yea, I can see that.

But my confirmation is lowering the saw, (not running) and sliding it across the cut line. If the saw teeth walk perfect down my marked line, good to go. If not, adjust as necessary

Exactly, and since the lasers usually only come on when the saw blade rotation is started I don't see how they can be of any use. In fact they would be more dangerous to have the laser come on and project its line, but now you have a whirring saw blade spinning in free space while you are shoving a workpiece around with you hand trying to make the blade cut line line up. It all just does not make any sense to me. Am I missing something here?

It just seems so easy to line of the saw teeth for the exact cut you want without turning on the saw or having your trigger finger anywhere near the switch. It seems safer to me. Not to mention the method outlined by LD1 in an earlier post of not even marking the workpiece at all with a pencil mark but just using the tape measure to find your cut line.

joefromga · May 12, 2016

Every laser saw I've used always stays on.

If they are set properly and accurate they are much nicer for production cuts. If you're doing trim in a house it'll save at the least a few seconds every cut. Over a fee hundred cuts you've saved a lunchbreak of time. That can be each day trimming out a home.

Time is money. Lasers are a great tool when used properly. They have also gotten better. Ten years ago they were gimmicky but most saws now they are tip top.

Don't need to lower saw and bend and look. Just slide board in and you see the line. Match with your pencil line and cut.

dickfoster · May 12, 2016

k0ua said:
Exactly, and since the lasers usually only come on when the saw blade rotation is started I don't see how they can be of any use. In fact they would be more dangerous to have the laser come on and project its line, but now you have a whirring saw blade spinning in free space while you are shoving a workpiece around with you hand trying to make the blade cut line line up. It all just does not make any sense to me. Am I missing something here?

It just seems so easy to line of the saw teeth for the exact cut you want without turning on the saw or having your trigger finger anywhere near the switch. It seems safer to me. Not to mention the method outlined by LD1 in an earlier post of not even marking the workpiece at all with a pencil mark but just using the tape measure to find your cut line.

I have one of those laser addons and it works well for me. My saw has a blade guard so there is no safety issue. Just turn the saw on, the laser marks the cut line, slide the workpiece with my cut mark to the laser line then either clamp or hold and make the cut. Easy peasy and spot on every time.

MinnesotaEric · May 12, 2016

Don't buy a laser. The laser bleeds on the edges and is super hard to see. Every tool I have that has a laser also has duct tape covering the laser so I can accurately follow a line.

joefromga · May 13, 2016

Eric you need a new laser or new eyes. Lasers are bright in daylight and have gotten better, I'm telling you.

Egon · May 13, 2016

LD1 said:
Yea, I can see that.

But my confirmation is lowering the saw, (not running) and sliding it across the cut line. If the saw teeth walk perfect down my marked line, good to go. If not, adjust as necessary

u

Can you do that with a compound miter cut?

downsizingnow48 · May 13, 2016

I have used a sliding bevel Bosch for over 20 years and various simple miter saws too, currently a Hitachi. Never a laser. Count me as a skeptic. What could be simpler, or more accurate, than lining up a left leaning tooth with the right side of your pencil mark? A laser line has to have some width, otherwise you could not see it. So by definition it is just another source of measurement error no matter what the alignment might be.