What to look for when buying a dozer

   / What to look for when buying a dozer #1  

Flatheadyoungin

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I'll admit it, I don't know jack crap about dozers. It'll be a while before I try to buy one to do some more cleaning, widening my driveway, build a pond, etc on my land.......However, when I want something like this, I start looking years in advance so I'll know when a good deal comes along.

I don't know what I'm looking at. I'm not partial to any brand or even any particular size but because of the availability of parts, etc. I'd say I'm looking for a John Deere 350. What should I look for in one? What is this "undercarriage" see mentioned so much. What about rollers, sprockets, pins, tracks, etc.? How many hours. Do they make them in standard shift/shuttle, etc?

Give me a quick lesson, here....

EDIT: I know repairs can quickly add up to more than the dozer is worth, so I want to know when something has been "babied" or taken good care of......

also, i've got time (i guess you could say that) but i don't have much money.....so something completely different (outside the box) would be ok too.....or an older model dozer.....
 
   / What to look for when buying a dozer #2  
There is an excellent post around somewhere from Eddie Walker and others regarding the same topic.. It ran for pages and pages and was full of great information.. IF after reading it you still want a dozer you will be much better educated and prepared the the 'issues' that can come up

good luck

Brian
 
   / What to look for when buying a dozer #3  
I originally was holding out for a nice JD 350C because it did not exceed my towing capacity.

I ended up buying a CAT D3 because I found a good one... My only negative or plus is that I can't move it. It's a plus, because a lot of "Friends" have asked to use it until they find out how much they will spend moving it.

What ever you buy, make sure it's something parts are available and it has the features you need... for me it was a 6-way blade and rippers.

My Caterpillar Dealer has been great the few times I've needed something. They made up a hose I damaged while I waited...

A small dozer can do a lot of work... just takes longer.

JD 350C dozers really hold their value around here...

Look for hydraulic leaks, put the machine through the paces... it should operate smoothly... especially the steering.
 
   / What to look for when buying a dozer #4  
And besides that, they're really fun to drive! :D I have a '56 JD 420C. Yeah, it's old and small but I've done nothing to it but lube, change the oil and tune ups. It's done everything I've asked it to do. It was an old pipe layer so it has a 10' boom and dozer blade. I use it to maintain the dirt driveway and the boom has really come in handy for lifting or moving things around. What I like is that it has the street cleats (no grousers) and it doesn't tear up the yard or the drive way.

Crawler.gif
 
   / What to look for when buying a dozer #5  
here is my 350 power steering and power reverser.
 

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   / What to look for when buying a dozer #6  
I'm in a love hate relationship with my dozer. It does what nothing else will do, but it also causes me more pain and suffering then everything else that I have combined. It's a Case, which has a great local dealer, so parts are fairly easy to get, but as I found out a few months ago, Case no longer makes or even knows where to get a replacement fan. They spent a week trying to figure out what would work from another machine, but while they were doing that, I found a used machine being dismantled in Florida.

Dozers are expensive. It doesn't matter what you pay for it, you will end up spending the same one way or another. If you buy new, you will spend it up front. If you buy used, you will spend it on repairs. If you are very lucky and don't do very much with it, you might get away with very few repairs and nothing too expensive. I'm not very lucky.

There are basically two types of dozers. Small and big. Small is cheaper, easier to move around on a trailer and are usually more common. They can do a fair amount, but do have their limits. Moving dirt and digging ponds can be very difficult if the machine is too light or underpowered to dig into hard packed soil. I ran a John Deere 450G at my place before buying my Case 1550. The Deere just slid across the dirt. If I angled the blade, I could get the tips to dig some, but otherwise, it was useless for digging.

I used it for clearing land, but found that it was only good on small saplings. Anything that was partially grown would stop it and spin it's tracks. Digging out those trees and pushing them over was very time consuming, and in allot of cases, just not possible if the ground was too hard to dig into. It takes a big hole to take out a tree with a dozer if the dozer cannot push it over.

Then there was the real problem, pushing the debris into a burn pile. The small dozer just didn't have the power to push a full blade worth of trees. The tracks would spin and I'd have to try it with fewer and fewer trees. Even with a smaller load, it wouldn't turn with the load. I had to stop, back up and reposition myself to go in the direction that I wanted to go.

That was an 80hp dozer. For trails, maintaining roads and smoothing out the dirt, it's great. I enjoyed the heck out of it going through the woods and creating ATV trails. I would push over the small stuff and work my way around the bigger trees. It was allot of fun.

For serious land clearing and digging, I went with a 169hp dozer that weighs almost 40,000 pounds. It will dig in hard dirt, it will push over trees a foot to a foot and a half thick without too much effort. Bigger trees sometimes if the soil is moist, but in the heat of summer, the size of the tree it will push over is smaller. Sometimes it wills snap a tree off and then you have to deal with the root ball.

It will push a full load of trees and turn with that load. It has an 8 way blade, so grading and shaping the land is easy. I can carve roads, or clear trails with it. It's too heavy to move around, but since it's just for here, that's not a consideration.

My neighbor has a guy with a Cat D4C that he hires to do work on his place. That dozer can accomplish quite a bit, but they still use a full sized backhoe and have had excavators in there several times to take out the bigger trees and dig his pond. That dozer was good for fence clearing, but not any good for big areas. It just can't handle large loads of trees and debris effectively.

When you decide to buy, you need to think of what you want to do with the dozer and decide how big you need it to be. Those who say a small dozer will do anything a big one will have probably never run both. The amount of dirt that I can move in a day compared to the JD450 isn't even close in comparison. The amount of land that I can clear in a day or week is also not even close.

Parts are not that big a difference between small and big machines. Engines are bigger, but a turbo or starter or whatever that you need to replace is gonna be priced more on who makes it then how big the motor is.

The other difference between dozers is how it's driven. Clutches or hydrostatic. The Deere was clutches and allot more work to operate. Older machines will all be clutches. I have no idea what it takes to replace or even adjust them. I know it's doable because people have been doing it forever. What it takes is just a mystery to me, and hopefully will remain so.

Hydrostatic is what I have on my Case dozer. The engine runs a set of hydraulic pumps, that in turn drive the tracks. The pumps are fairly straight forward, but extremely expensive. For my dozer, replacement pumps cost $25,000 each from Case. I had to rebuild one of mine, which cost $2,000. In order for them to give me a warranty, I also had to have them rebuild the drive motor. That was another grand. I had to take them out of the dozer and bring them to the rebuild shop. Just finding a place that was qualified to do this took allot of effort. I won't get into what it takes to remove those parts or how you have to get the tracks off the ground and run the dozer when you install them, but it's not a simple task.

Which brings me to the main things you need to know about owning a dozer. It is just about impossible to find somebody to fix them for you. In simple terms, you are not that important to the dealer or an equipment mechanic. The time it will take for them to come out and deal with you cost them money because they can make allot more taking care of their big customers. You either need a very good friend or family member to fix it for you, or you will have to learn how to do this yourself. I've had to replace my tracks by myself, rebuild my engine by myself, rebuild that hydraulic pump by myself and just about every hydraulic cylinder. There's not much that I haven't had to fix on it, but I know that it's just a matter of time until those things break down too. You will need allot of tools, something that will lift heavy parts and patience. Some things are very expensive, so you will have to either have deep pockets, be good at saving money, or a credit card ready to go. Some repairs have to be done out in the field. I've had branches take out hoses in some terrible locations. I spent a day with a chainsaw cutting branches and trees up so that I could tunnel under the back of the dozer to get a hose that had snapped off. I think it was $20 for the hose, but it was a day of misery to change it.

Running a dozer is fun for the first day, maybe even the first week, but then it gets painful. They beat you up, require total concentration at all times. You don't just drive it, you are also working the blade, which is really two points. Each outside tip is what you watch and have to pay attention to. Your eyes only see one tip at a time, so it's a constant battle to know what's going on with both ends of the blade at the same time. Add steering the dozer and your speed to the mix and you'll find that it's allot to pay attention to. My dad has been trying to do this for years now, but just doesn't get it. Others have been out here and tried, but go too fast and can't control the blade. Getting them to slow down sounds easy, but it doesn't happen. Even at a crawl, working the blade requires allot of practice and concentration.

All this concentration on a very rough riding machine that makes allot of noise will just wear you out. That's when it's running good. If it's giving you problems, then it's even more exhausting. Not to mention frustrating. The fun factor disappears real fast.

After you decide what sized machine you want, what brand that has a dealer close to you with parts and how much money you can spend, you'll need to start looking at machines. A dozer has just a few main parts to them to look at, so it's not all that complicated. The engine is pretty basic. If it's running strong, then it's fine. If not, you get to decide if it's worth fixing. The same is true for the drive train. If the clutches or hydrostatic drive work, then you're good to go. To check that, put the blade down into the dirt as far as it will go and spin the tracks going forward. If both tracks spin at the same speed, you're probably fine. If not, then there might be a problem. Don't listen to the person selling the machine, they are probably lying as to why it's not right and how simple it is to fix. Everything is cheap and simple to fix when they are selling it, but for some reason, they never do these cheap and simple repairs themselves.

The hydraulic cylinders are simple and fairly easy to repair. If they are leaking, that's not a big deal. Same thing with the hoses. Not something to pay allot of attention on. Even brand new looking hoses will rupture on you, it's just part of owning equipment.

The real money and what you really need to know about is the undercarriage. This wears out, it's normal and just what happens when you run a machine. Avoid the wide tracked, flotation type of tracks, they wear out faster and cause more problems because of the twisting of the tracks when you turn. The sprocket can be either a one piece unit or multiple pieces. I thing mine is five pieces. The one piece sprocket can be a pain to replace because you have to take the tracks off. The multiple piece sprocket is easy and you can change them without allot of effort. Just unbolt each piece and install the new one, move the dozer forwards or backwards to expose the next piece and do it again. The rest is where you run into money.

The main thing is how much wear is on the bushings. These are the round metal parts that go into the sprocket on the tracks. The sprocket makes contact with the bushings to drive the dozer. These have to be pressed on and off. They have two lives, one on each side. Brand new, they are perfectly round tubes, but after so many thousand hours, one side will wear down. When it gets to a certain point, you have to remove the tracks and bring them to a place that will turn them for you. Cost of this can be in the $5,000 range. That's what I've been told, I haven't done this yet as mine were just turned when I bought my dozer and when they wear out, I will have to buy new ones.

Before buying, take somebody with you who knows about dozers. Hire him or do whatever it takes to have him look it over. Be careful on this as some guys who are great operators don't have a clue about fixing them. Be sure to know this before you make your decision. Again, some mechanics know allot about fixing them, but nothing about operating them. You can also take pictures of it and post them here. Maybe we can help, or spot something that might make a difference in whether you buy it or not.

Good luck,
Eddie
 
   / What to look for when buying a dozer #7  
Eddie "Killjoy" Walker, you have just cured my lust for a dozer. :(

On the other hand, you have probably saved me grief and money. :)
 
   / What to look for when buying a dozer #8  
Don't think that way people considering buying a dozer. Boo on you Eddie. :) Of course I would say that because I sell the darn things. :) :) I personally have sold over 200 of the small dozers in Komatsu and Mitsubishi and have a GREAT track record. These little units ARE cheaper to fix and repair for sure. You can replace a complete u/c for $4000-$5000 if you didn't buy it already ready for work. Shoot the bigger machines would barely replace the chains for that. I know this because I sell u/c too.

If you do decide to buy it is always best to have someone with you that really does know what to look for. I've seen dozers advertised that said u/c in excellent (90% remaining) condition and the pads are wore down to knubs, front idler is almost off the frame rail, and the sprockets are pointed or sharp. :( Then there are bolts broke off the crossmembers where they attach to the frame rails that I've over looked before and then the bull work starts. :)

I actually find that running a bulldozer is calming and you can get rid of your thoughts by operating it for a while. You WILL forget all about your daily problems guaranteed but hopefully they are not replaced with new problems with the dozer. :) :) It is like anything and you may get yourself a lemon but that is not likely if you have any luck.

Darin
 
   / What to look for when buying a dozer #9  
I just wish Eddie would stop holding back and learn to express his true feelings.
 
   / What to look for when buying a dozer #10  
Running a dozer is fun for the first day, maybe even the first week, but then it gets painful. They beat you up, require total concentration at all times. You don't just drive it, you are also working the blade, which is really two points.

Good luck,
Eddie

Working my hillsides... I find 3 to 4 hours is my concentration limit before I do something stupid like turn the opposite way from the way I want to... not good on a hillside.

At the same time, it is therapeutic... nothing like pushing some dirt around after a hard week on the job to give a little boost...
 
   / What to look for when buying a dozer #11  
Hi, Folks.
I'm new here but I do have a little experience with dozers - I'm really only just starting to learn about operating all types of earthmoving and construction machinery, having almost gotten my 'smar-tassed' phase out of the way after just 44 years of operating.

Firstly, I would have to say that some of what Eddie Walker had to say is true. Then I would ask, "Eddie, what were you doing at the time that it took you a day with a chainsaw to clear around the back of your machine so that you could tunnel under it to get a blown hose out?"

I always thought that the object of the exercise was to have all the mess IN FRONT of you, on its way to wherever you want it to end up. Mess behind you would seem to indicate that you haven't got your act together. The
'sharp end' of a dozer is in front of you so that you can see what it is that you are trying to do. If you are reversing over trees and brush, etc., you may be sitting up and begging for trouble 'cos many smaller dozers don't have the level of underbelly protection that the bigger ones do.

You claim that dozers are rough on the operator. I would put it to you that they are only as rough on you as you are on the machine. I figured that one out about the second time I went over a bump too fast, 40-odd years ago.

Maybe I'm a bit of a 'medical rarity' but I have spent MANY very pleasant hours 'contemplating my navel', so to speak, while the dozer did the work for me. After all, isn't that why we have machines anyway? Very early in my operating career, I became good enough at operating a dozer that I could do a lot of it on 'auto-pilot', without having to think much about it. Now I admit that this IS easier to do with a bigger machine than a smaller one 'cos they are more stable but I've done it with a few smaller ones too.

Yes, a dozer can take a fair bit out of you until you learn to make the machine work for you instead of you working for it. From the way you write, I'd question whether you have developed much 'feel' for the machines that you have operated. You write of trying to keep your eyes on both sides/ends of the blade. When you develop a good 'feel' for the machine, you will just 'know' most times where the 'other' corner is. I and a lot of other operators do it pretty regularly with blades nearly twice as wide as yours.

You can also learn to 'know' most times when a dozer is going to go over a bump or into a hole by the way the feel of it changes through the seat under your favourite rump steak. This is a learned skill but a hugely handy one to develop - makes it a LOT easier to do a day's work without getting all wore out.

Quote from Eddie Walker:
"Moving dirt and digging ponds can be very difficult if the machine is too light or underpowered to dig into hard packed soil. I ran a John Deere 450G at my place before buying my Case 1550. The Deere just slid across the dirt. If I angled the blade, I could get the tips to dig some, but otherwise, it was useless for digging."
Unquote.

I dunno 'cos I'm just a 'learner' at this 'dozing game but I thought that that was why they fitted rippers to 'dozers, for getting into hard-packed soil. Having a machine properly set up for what you want to do with it is at least half the battle. Don't blame the machine for the fact that you didn't set it up right for what you wanted it to do. Blame yourself for not knowing - or caring - more when you bought it.

For your sake, I hope Case dozers have improved a lot in the nearly 40 years since I had anything to do with them, 'cos they were strictly 'cotton wool' machines way back then, light duty, with the emphasis on the 'light'.

Hi, Flatheadyoungin.
It seems to me that you adopting a sensible approach to buying a machine - finding out all you can about them before making your purchase. Learning about undercarriage wear would be a good place to start. Learning to assess wear from the feel of the bushes in between the track rails and the wear lines on the sprocket teeth and from the height of the rails from running face to track plate. Measuring the length over four links/five pins can give you a good idea of the wear between pins and bushings if you have the chart showing the acceptable limits for the machine you are looking at.

I'd suggest going to your various local dealers and asking them for information and wear charts for the products in their range that you might be interested in buying. Explain why you want these things and see what their reposnse is. This may tell you a bit about the sort of service you might get from them if you do happen to buy one of their machines too.

Hope this helps.

You have a wonderful day. Best wishes. Deas Plant.
 
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   / What to look for when buying a dozer #12  
Hi Deas Plant,

Nice to see you over here, and welcome to TBN. I'm used to reading your replies over at HeavyEqupment and look forward to reading your posts over here. Your decades of experience will be much appreciated by those of us who are learning as we go with equipment that we buy for working on our land.

It's nice to hear how it's supposed to be done compared to some of the stunts that I've pulled and learned the hard way. Like you noticed, running over debris wasn't very smart and relying on belly plates to keep those branches out of my hydraulic hoses was proof that I didn't know this. To add to this, I've had some very small pines work there way up past through a gap in those plates and take out the engine oil sensor on the side of my block. Another time, a branch went right through my oil pan. That branch didn't seem very hard or strong enough to do that, even after pulling out of the hole.

The list goes on and on. But it's all part of what happens when a guy who owns a few acres buys a dozer and expects to use it to clear parts of his land. We buy what we can afford and then see what happens. I think my advice and experience was pretty accurate for what he should expect if he buys a dozer.

I'm not sure what your comment about Case was referring to? And you really lost me on your comment "cos they were strictly 'cotton wool' machines" along with them bing light duty. Was that an insult towards me? Case? or just a personal thing?

Is "cotton wool" one of those Australian sayings? What does it mean?

Eddie
 
   / What to look for when buying a dozer #13  
Hi, Eddie Walker.
Thanks for the welcome.

Re Case and 'cotton wool', no insult intended, just a comment based on some years-old observations. Things may have changed in the intervening years.

Back when I did work around Case machines a bit, they were pretty generally reckoned to be cotton wool machines 'cos you needed to keep them wrapped in cotton wool to avoid breakdowns. The guy I work for now started off with Case machines over 30 years ago. He had them for about 5 years and they nearly broke him - until he bought his first Cat machine, a 941B track loader with 4-in-1 bucket and rippers. He's never looked back.

Isn't it surprising what damage a small stick can do if it hits at just the right angle and speed? If you're going to do much clearing with your currnet machine, you might like to look underneath and see where you can plug any potential entry holes in your belly plates.

Good luck and speedy learning.

You have a wonderful day. Best wishes. Deas Plant.
 
   / What to look for when buying a dozer #14  
one to do some more cleaning, widening my driveway, build a pond, etc on my land.


First I will say I am no experienced operator, mechanic, or other. But I hope I can still help.

Clearing- depends on what you are clearing and how much.

Widening your driveway- sounds like any will do

Build a pond- ALOT of variables here. Just digging out a hole, pushing a dam, or what?


Eddie is ABSOLUTELY right. Never, ever listen to the person selling the machine, period!

Undercarriage is a major expense that happens regardless of the dozer. It's just a matter of time. You can do some things to prolong the life of the undercarriage by proper maintenance and operating technique. Cat has someone that will come out and do a free undercarriage assessment. Honest or not, who knows? It is sometimes cheaper to stop and have some undercarriage work done than it is to keep running until major undercarriage work is necessary.

I would not be to concerned with hydraulic hoses, but I would check for cylinder leaks.

Personally, I prefer the hydrostat drive like eddie mentioned. But for reliability or repairs, I can't say which is better. Operating the hydrostat is easier.

Blade control, ground speed, RPM's, etc.- That will come with time. Everybody had their own technique and you will develop your own.

A local guy recently bought a Cat D3. It ran great, looked great, original paint, no leaks, etc. Just a nice dozer with several hours left before the undercarriage needed attention. Well all that soon changed. First, the bearing on the idler sprocket went out. Then the oil cooler started leaking from a rusted out hole. Removing the cooler showed beach sand built up around it. Then a roller bearing on the tilt cylinder. Then a hose under the cab- the guy working on it said it was actually 3 hoses with hoes in them. Fuel filter clogged. You get the point. Some things are unforeseeable and you will just have to work through the repairs. Being able to do the work yourself will save you huge $$$$.

Dozer size- smaller will work, but it takes more work and puts more stress on the dozer. The harder it is run, the sooner the repairs come. But if the dozer is just for occasional farm use, you can make do alot of times. Downtime doesn't hurt as when dozing is your business. For the occasional use and not producing income, I can see not wanting to spend alot of money. You may not put many hours on one at all, so the undercarriage may last you quite a while.

Hope I haven't misled you in any direction. Good Luck with your decision!
 
   / What to look for when buying a dozer #15  
I think that Eddie posted some pretty good advice about, particularly, the darker side of bulldozers. A dozer will do things that nothing else will do, but at a price.

I'm a fan of smaller dozers because, to a degree, it keeps me out of trouble. If my little dozer can't push it down, I leave it alone. I have had an old Case 310G for over a year now and have done a lot of clearing, cleaning up burn piles, filling in ditches, and even digging a small pond (that took awhile). So far, all I've had to do is just oil/fluid/filter changes, etc. I do take care when I operate, I don't try to over tax the machine, and it certainly has it's limitations when pushing piles of debris. I just end up making more trips.

I'm with Eddie as far as operating goes - it's fun at first, but it can become work. I like it for about 2 or 3 hours, depending on what I'm doing. After that, I'm getting tired of it. Of course, mine is a straight gear machine, lots of clutching, and steers with hand brakes, so it's kind of operator intensive. However, it has been rare when I've had the time to operate it longer than that.

On the other hand, it is a sort of therapy for me, because nothing compares to tearing down trees and thorns bushes in seconds that would have taken hours by hand - it's kind of satisfying in a "Demolition Man" kind of way.

Take care.
 
   / What to look for when buying a dozer #16  
I'll say on Eddies behalf, our local dirt working contractor won't take his smaller dozers into the woods. He told me it didn't matter who was driving it was just gonna tear them up.

They use large escavators with grapples to clear all the brush and stumps and trees so the u/c never runs over it.
 
   / What to look for when buying a dozer #17  
Is there anything a large excavator with a dozer blade on front cant do? My money is on the excavator...now all I have to do is figure out how to buy a $250,000 machine to play with.

Any ideas? Also looking for ways to convince the wife that I REALLLLY do need an excavator. She cant see that light yet.
 
   / What to look for when buying a dozer #18  
Large escavators don't have front blades usually. The U/C is just built to move the machine. Start dozing and you need HD U/C and it will wear like a dozers and cost even more to rebuild.

Only good thing is you can lift your track up easily to get blocking under the U/C.
 
   / What to look for when buying a dozer #19  
Chances are the best thing to look for when contemplating buying a dozer is a business plan followed by a financial institution that will provide financing!:D:D
 
   / What to look for when buying a dozer #20  
If you plan on using a dozer to clear and dig a pond and widen your road I think you're limiting yourself. Eddie had some good points in his post. I wouldn't buy a dozer just to widen my driveway, I'd rent it. I can't see why it would take more than a day or two to accomplish this mission. Hardly enough to justify buying a dozer. Land clearing with a dozer can be done but in my opinion an excavator is better. You don't see too many land clearing projects with just a dozer, maybe a dozer and an excavator or just an excavator but not just a dozer. I think that using a dozer is really limiting yourself. Constructing a pond can be done with a dozer but again, these other projects you speak of in my opinion would be easier done with an excavator.

I guess I'm of the mind set that unless you have endless projects like Eddie has why waste money on purchasing equipment. You can rent this stuff and devote a set amount of time to get the projects done here and there. If you really feel the need to drag out the projects and accomplish them on your own time or you just simply want equipment, purchasing and maintaining equipment is very expensive. You limit yourself with a budget then you get what you can afford; and sometimes that comes with mechanical headaches unless you can afford newer equipment.

That being said, you're vague on the size and nature of the projects. I can clear land with a 4-5 ton mini excavator or I can use a 16 ton excavator. Pond can be dug by a backhoe, loader, excavator, or dozer. There's too many possibilities right now.

An excavator w/ a dozer blade is a good combo if you don't have too much heavy dozing you want to do. The kobelco bladerunner is a good machine. It can do a little more since it has a 6-way blade. Deere 120's and 135's are also well made machines. I've never used one with a blade but I've used Deere 120's and they are great machines. They are however, expensive.
 

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