What will it pull

[JWR]

Can I pull a 14 inch two bottom breaking plow with a 3560 HST 4 wheel drive no loader?

Thanks
Rick

If you have Ag tires, yes. Otherwise forget it. One guy said that liquid filled tires might be problematic and make the tractor too heavy. I disagree with that -- there is no such thing as too heavy except for trailers and old bridges.

 

[LD1]

Good examples. It's partly why you need enough pulling capacity and HP or you slide all over trying to pull and it's frustrating rather than satisfying. Plowing at a given speed works better than just barely tugging along.

Those pics, where I plowed.....that was low range....full speed. Or about 3.5 mph.

I think I would have liked 5mph alot better, but med range is geared to go about 7.5. it was bogging down to 3.5-4 mph trying to pull in med. A few more ponies under the hood would have been nice. But had no issues at all in low. I stopped to take the pics, had no issues whatsoever restarting.

Plowing is a joy. I didn't want to stop, but ran out of land.

Previous poster that said 1 drawbar hp per once of plow.....never heard that....but would have to agree it's pretty close. I have no idea what the drawbar hp is on a MX....but 3-14 would say it needs 42. And I'd say with 51hp engine, and 42 PTO hp.....I am right in that neighborhood.

The l3400, at 34 hp and 29 PTO, was a good match for a 2-14

 

[sixdogs]

If you have enough weight and low enough gearing, anything can pull almost anything. Which would be 1/4% of what you would use your tractor for. The rest of the time you want to drive on your lawn or over your septic system or in the vegetable garden, which is 99 3/4% of it's intended use, and would now not be fully usuable for those purposes.

I have a 90HP, 9000 lb, 4WD tractor with radial tires and can barely pull four bottoms in clay. That's what it takes for HP. Plows are pretty much obsolete anyway (although I love to do it) but I do pull an 8 ft chisel plow with 15 shanks on it for tillage.

The real answer is to own two or more tractors. Don't be bashful; just buy carefully and tell the wife that's the way it will be in order for you to realize the potential of your hobby and to keep you home on the weekends. Yes, it works.

 

[ole dummy]

Thanks for all the info. I have plowed before but was with M Farmall's and A John Deere's. This is my first HST and just wasn't sure about what it will pull. I am only plowing about a half acre garden so I think I will be ok with the 14's. Trying to get a plow in the trade deal with the dealer but he is having trouble finding one at his suppliers. Wanting to throw in a LP Quick Hitch instead. Not sure I want a quick hitch because my equipment is the old style 3 point hitch.

 

[jeff9366]

As you have a Kubota 'Grand L' 3560 with pinned stabilizers and telescopic Lower Links, a Quick Hitch seems superfluous to me. While a correctly installed Quick Hitch might be a tad faster at mounting compatible implements they introduce their own idiosyncrasies with implement compatibility and PTO length compatibility. If you go with a QH you cannot use your telescopic Lower Links, they have to remain "in" for the QH to function.

(I am a great believer in the KISS Principle. The Grand L Three Point Hitch is a perfect example of KISS. I am usually willing to pay more for less.)

Consider carefully before moving in Quick Hitch direction ~~~~~~


2 X 12" plows are still produced by many suppliers. 2 X 14" plows are not. As you have sandy-loam a 2 X 12" plow should be sufficient ~~~~~or even a 1 X 12" for 1/2 acre. A 1 X 12" is easier to adjust and takes less space to store.

What equipment are you going to use to reduce plow furrows? A Disc Harrow is the "book" succession implement, followed by a Chain Harrow or Spike Tooth Harrow. However, a Landscape Rake with gauge wheels is a good improvisation. ( A 14" plow will leave you with 2" higher furrows to deal with, relative to a 12" plow.)

I pull an Everytfhingattachments.com sub-compact 1 X 12" plow behind a BX tractor in a small but expanding commercial Blueberry field. This plow has been excellent. The moldboards and other plow parts are the same on ETA's 1 X 12" and 2 X 12" plows for compact tractors like the L3560, only the frame height varies. ETA also offers 14" plows.

Give ETA consideration:

Garden Tractor Plows From Everything Attachments

 

[ole dummy]

As you have a Kubota 'Grand L' 3560 with pinned stabilizers and telescopic Lower Links, a Quick Hitch seems superfluous to me. While a Quick Hitch might be a tad faster at mounting implements they introduce the own idiosyncrasies with implement compatibility and PTO length compatibility. (I am a great believer in the KISS Principle. I am usually willing to pay more for less.)

Consider carefully before moving in Quick Hitch direction ~~~~~~


2 X 12" plows are still produced by many suppliers. 2 X 14" plows are not. As you have sandy-loam a 2 X 12" plow should be sufficient ~~~~~or even a 1 X 12" for 1/2 acre. A 1 X 12" is easier to adjust and takes less space to store.

What equipment are you going to use to reduce the plow furrows? A Disc Harrow is the "book" succession implement, followed by a Chain Harrow or Spike Tooth Harrow. However, a Landscape Rake with gauge wheels works well too. ( A 14" plow will leave you with 2" higher furrows to deal with, relative to a 12" plow.)

I have a 5 ft Bush hog brand tiller that I was going to use after breaking the garden.

 

[Turbys_1700]

I would opt out on the quick hitch. Like Jeff said with telescoping lower links you can get your implements hooked up fast enough. I bought a quick hitch thinking it would speed things up and I just end up fiddling with the darn thing to get it adjusted.

Your dealer should be able to get a plow from a supplier. They are not that uncommon. Lots of folk still plow their gardens.

 

[jeff9366]

I have a 5 ft Bush hog brand tiller that I was going to use after breaking the garden.

You do not need a plow if you have a PTO powered tiller. Forget the plow. You will INCREASE work to no point if you create plow furrows before roto-tilling. Just read the roto-tiller Operator's Manual carefully and it will explain how to adjust the tiller to handle sod. Scalp mow the proposed garden land prior to roto-tilling. If it is as dry in Alabama as it is here in north Florida, you will have to wait for two days after a soaking rain to till.

If you use a 14" plow you will need to roto-till twice to flatten the furrows. That totals three workings of the soil, which is too much for sandy-loam. After three workings within six months your soil will crust after the first rain, inhibiting sprouted seeds from pushing tendrils to the surface.

You should have included all the information in your four posts within this thread in your initial, introductory, post. I enjoy helping people but everything until now has been a waste of time, relative to selecting implements for your garden preparation.

 

[sixdogs]

Thanks for all the info. I have plowed before but was with M Farmall's and A John Deere's. This is my first HST and just wasn't sure about what it will pull. I am only plowing about a half acre garden so I think I will be ok with the 14's. Trying to get a plow in the trade deal with the dealer but he is having trouble finding one at his suppliers. Wanting to throw in a LP Quick Hitch instead. Not sure I want a quick hitch because my equipment is the old style 3 point hitch.

Buy an old Ford or Dearborn two bottom 12" plow for cheap money and great resale potential**. Shine up the moldboards and you will be fine with that. A tiller would work if you have gravel soil--I forgot--but if clay it will cause compaction problems.

**Find my old thread on restoring an old two bottom Dearborn/Ford plow. Do what I did, restore it, use it and have fun. When you tire of it or find out how much work it is, you can sell it for a profit.

 

[ovrszd]

As you have a Kubota 'Grand L' 3560 with pinned stabilizers and telescopic Lower Links, a Quick Hitch seems superfluous to me. While a Quick Hitch might be a tad faster at mounting implements they introduce the own idiosyncrasies with implement compatibility and PTO length compatibility. If you go with a QH you cannot use your telescopic Lower Links, they have to remain "in" for the QH to function. (I am a great believer in the KISS Principle. I am usually willing to pay more for less.)
Consider carefully before moving in Quick Hitch direction ~~~~~~]

Very good analysis of why I never remove the QH from my Kubota. Simplicity at it's finest.

 

[Fallon]

My L3200 just ran off & a new L4060 will be on its way soon... I loved the QH on my L3200 as it made hitching up so easy. But I also had TnT so could twist or tilt the QH to grab anything no matter how crooked. Without TnT you loose a lot of the QH advantages.

I'm getting TnT on my L4060 & planning on grabbing another QH as I've setup all my gear for one. I haven't ever used the fancy telescoping links, but can see their value, although I never saw value in them for me because I already had a QH & TnT.

 

[LD1]

The telescoping links and stabilizers are nice, if you run alot of old equipment that aint QH compatible. Or have made alot of "homemade" stuff as I have, before even knowing what QH or QH compatible was.

And some of my stuff now, with having the MX, is cat I and some is cat II. So a QH just isnt something that would work for me. On my old L3400, I made something similar to carters/pats that only go on the lower links. And that was a lifesaver. The telescoping arms are equally as easy IMO.

My only complaint is the telescoping stabilizers. Hole selection is limited, and I can usually get to about a few inches of sway at the tail of an implement, which is good for most things. But I probably put 85-90% of my hours on with a 1600# mower back there. and being unable to take ALL the slop out, I go through alot of lynch pins.

I think, as a winter project, I am gonna look into modifying the stabilizers and maybe put a small turn-buckle on the end of each one. Just something with ~1" of travel would be fine. Get it as tight as I can with the pins, then use the turnbuckle to take the last bit of play out.

 

[LD1]

My only complaint is the telescoping stabilizers.

My only complaint is the PINNED stabilizers.

Lower Links telescope, not stabilizers.

kubota referes to them as telescopic stabilizers. Just using the OEM lingo

 

[SPYDERLK]

kubota referes to them as telescopic stabilizers. Just using the OEM lingo

View attachment 488380

Telescopic stabilizers, extendable links. :confused3:

 

[LD1]

Dont really matter what one wants to call them. Yep they are nice. But not without flaws IMO. And that big flaw being not able to take ALL the slop out of the swing. That ~1-2" of swing takes its toll on my lynch pins when mowing.