whats close to a L-2800?

[MetroGuy]

I have a seven month old Kubota L-2800 HST, with FEL, I bought new in December of 2010. I have a major issue with the jerky 3pt hitch. Kubota has authorized my local dealer to pick it up twice now, and attempt some adjustments, none of which have worked. This second time, the factory service rep actually did the adjustment. It is actually worse now that a second procedure has been attempted. I have seen and read numerous threads on this issue and now understand it is due to the valve used. For some owners, the jerky hitch makes no difference. I'm happy for them, as otherwise I love this tractor. For me, I use it exclusively for fine grading work and the imprecise movement of the attachments is a big deal. So far, Kubota has been very responsive in attempting to help me with this issue, but I now realize there really is nothing that is going to help, short of Kubota coming out with a new valve which they are not going to do. In this process, I am told that if I am still not satisfied, that Kubota Sales will get involved and I will be offered several options. 1) return the tractor for a refund, 2) trade in the tractor for a model which suits my needs better, or 3) keep it and put up with the jerky hitch.

I love the size and style of my L-2800, and the simplicity, but I know that if I keep it, every time I use it I will be so pissed off at the jerky hitch that I will come away aggravated and mad, and my work with it should be a pleasurable and fun experience.

My dealer has been responsive and of course will do whatever Kubota allows me to do. I could not ask for better service from my dealer. I asked my dealer what similar size tractors, up or down, would I be able to go to that DO NOT have the same 3pt hitch valve that the L-2800 has. Two suggestions were the Grand L 3240, and the B3030. One a step up in physical size and horsepower, and the other a step down in physical size, but a step up in horsepower.

One of the reasons I didn't go with a B series to begin with was that I wanted a universal quick hitch for the FEL, and at the time I think I mistakenly believed that the B series had a quick hitch system, but it was proprietary to Kubota's equipment. So I chose the L-2800. I have since purchased a set of quick hitch front forks. I have now been informed that there is an attachment system that will fit the B series loaders, that will allow for a universal quick attachment system so I can use my forks or any other universal quick attach system. So the B series could now be an option.

The problem is, if I decide not to keep the L-2800 and go with another Kubota tractor, its not like its going to be an even swap. In both instances or choices listed above, the L3240 and the B3030, there is extra money that goes with each choice. Without really discussing differences in price of those units, just looking at retail value, I see that there is about a $3300.00 increase for the B3030, and about a $5800.00 increase if I went with the L3240. At first glance, the L3240 is out of the question, due to the amount of money I would need. The B3030 might be workable, but I'm not sure yet. Since it was a big deal getting my first tractor to begin with and my budget at the time was about as tight as my sharp pencil would make it, the thought of having to put out more money isn't exactly what I was hoping for. I do not expect Kubota to give me a more expensive tractor in exchange for mine. Let me make that clear. What I am asking here is if anyone has any suggestions on what might be a better choice than my L-2800, but have a nice smooth 3pt hitch. Again, my tractor work is almost exclusively maintaining a gravel driveway that is approximately 1100 feet long, and a private road which is approximately 1300 feet long. The driveway has a small hill and curve at one portion. Even though the 3030 has more horsepower, it is a lighter tractor. Will I have trouble scraping my driveway and roadway because of the lesser weight of the tractor? Another consideration is that I already have two 3pt hitch implements, a pretty hefty 5 foot box scraper and a 6 foot articulating scrape blade. Would the 3030 handle these two implements?

Thanks for any information, comments, thoughts etc.

 

[kuboman]

The B3030 is a great tractor but it is not an L. You could go to the B3300 with the larger tires and with ballast will give the feeling of a bigger heavier tractor.
My first choice of course would be the L3240 but if money is a problem then that is out.
Another thought is the dealer might upgrade a B3030 with the larger tires and ballast. :thumbsup:

 

[k0ua]

I am one of the ones the jerky hitch does not bother much. But I have "heard" that the Grand L valve components can be retrofitted to the L2800/L3400/L3700 tractors. I dont know this for a fact. But check it out. it might be the solution. to pay a few hundred for a fix like this. From most reports the L3200 and the L3800 the newest tractors in this line still have the problem.. although some owners and at least one dealer on here.. say "what problem?" I guess it depends on what you do with the tractor, and your tolerance for small aggravations is. Check with Chilly 807 and Teg for the latest in the "jerky hitch saga". You are correct that this is about the only wart on the nose of these excellent tractors. I really love mine, and get a lot of use out of it. Good luck and let us know if you come across something good

James K0UA

 

[MetroGuy]

Thanks for the comments so far. I have read on here about a grand L valve working on an L-2800, but I am told by the Kubota service Rep, that it will not work. Somewhere I had read that the bolt holes would not line up, the the rep tells me that its the holes where the hydrolic fluids enter and exit that will not line up. I tend to believe that, since it would be a really easy fix to just swap out valves.

 

[Wolfy]

I was considering a L2800 or L3200. I sure would appreciate if someone could explain exactly what the hitch does that frustrates many owners.

 

[MetroGuy]

Kuboman, when you say the 3030 is not an L, what are you speaking of mostly. Is it size of frame and weight of tractor, which could prevent me from using the implements I already have (the 6' blade and the 5' box scraper)? Actually, the 3030 has a lot more features than the basic L, which might be handy.

 

[Wolfy]

Metroguy, the biggest diffeerence from a B to a L is tire height, loader height, and overall weight. The Bs would be more manueverable and the Ls reach higher, a little more power. Some of the new Bs are almost as big as the older Ls.

 

[MetroGuy]

Wolfy, here is my problem with my L-2800. When lowering the box scraper or scrape blade, it goes very smoothly, no matter how slow I try to lower it. But when trying to raise the implement just a hair, it jerks up and stops. It does so about an inch or more at a time. Lets say I lower the blade to scrape some gravel, then decide I need the blade just a fraction of an inch higher. I slowly move the lever just a bit, but the hitch raises not a fraction of an inch, but at least an inch or more. It seems I can never get the blade exactly where I need it. Plus, when it jerks up, the whole tractor jerks and bounces. It really is a thorn in this otherwise wonderful tractor.

Now had I known this tractor did this, I would not have purchased it. I had read about this issue on many threads here at TBN and I asked my dealer about it before purchase. My dealer remembered that there was an issue, and searched for what he thought was a Technical Service Bulletin on the issue. He found an Informational Bulletin that he showed me that indicated the problem had been fixed, several years before my 2010 L-2800 was made. The bulletin even gave a serial number that was thousands before my tractor was made. So I and the dealer believed the issue had been corrected. No, I did not try it out at the dealer, as I believed the issue had been corrected, due to the bulletin he showed me. It just didn't occur to me that it would still be jerky. If all I was doing was plowing, or bush hogging, it probably would not bother me, but I am doing mostly fine grading and I just cannot stand the way it jerks.

 

[k0ua]

I was considering a L2800 or L3200. I sure would appreciate if someone could explain exactly what the hitch does that frustrates many owners.

Here are some of my observations in 3 posts I have made this last year:


My 2010 L3400 still has the jerky 3ph going up. Doesnt bother me any at all. If you move the handle rapidly to a position, there is one jerk at the end when the implement comes to a stop. then you can feather it down to where you want it smoothly, as it is as smooth as silk going down. BUT if you try to raise the hitch slowly to a given position, then it is jerky city. Some have said they dont have the problem, some have said the 2008 2009 models dont have the problem. some have said that a new valve kubota has will fix the problem.. Some have said it will not. some have said "well that is how 1/4 inching is supposed to work" only problem there it is not a 1/4 inching valve. It is position control. Some have speculated that the 3800 does not have the problem. I do not know. I do know this, if you raise the loader at the same time as you raise the 3PH the problem goes away. Of course there would be less hydraulic flow going to the 3PH at that time as the 3PH is after the Power Beyond port on the control valve of the loader. Take this info for what you paid for it, but to me it is not a problem, it may be for others. Love the tractor overall, reliable and when properly loaded it is a workhorse, and it fits me well. YMMV

Here is what I have found, on my 2010 L3400:
If you raise the lift, in one smooth movement, no problem it will go there smoothly, you then can lower the lift by gently moving the lever down in any increments you like, and it will smoothly go down. However if you "overshoot" the place you want to stop at. you cannot just nudge it back up a little it will jerk up every time. so to summarize: move up to one position, in one movement of the lever, no problem smooth movement up to that position and stop. And to move down smoothly, no problem, you can move in one or multiple movements of the lever, and the movement is smooth. BUT if you try to move up in small increments, Big potential problem, jerky upward movement.
Overall this has not really diminished anything I do with the tractor, I just know how it works and I work accordingly. But is is not smooth up with small movements. YMMV

Also you will not be able to tell much if the tractor does not have an implement on the 3ph. just a bare tractor will not prove much. I have a 2010 L3400, and the 3pt hitch is jerky if you try to raise it slowly. If you just move the lever smartly up. there will be one "jerk" at the end of movement. But if you try to raise the lever slowly the 3pt. will be a series of jerky raising movements. Of course lowering the 3pt, it is silky smooth. Not a problem for the things I do., but I can see how lifting a motor with a boom pole, would be an issue.


James K0UA

 

[teg]

... But I have "heard" that the Grand L valve components can be retrofitted to the L2800/L3400/L3700 tractors...

I am one of the guys that got the old jerky valve replaced with a new one. It is so darn nice... I'm also one that believes the Grand L valves would/could still work but kubota will never let that happen...

If I were you; do #1) return the tractor for a refund... and look at other brands. Period.

PS. I do wonder if some valves are worst than others, since this is a cheap valve, I would assume that the quality control is slipping big time. :2cents:

PSS. Added photo... I would not have tried this with the old valves!

 

[Mpking]

It sounds to me like you have the right size tractor for the job and that the B3030 and L3240 aren't really going to work for you. I think you could make the B work like Kuboman said, but you'd probably rather have a tractor with the weight of an L series. Sounds like the L3240 is out due to the price. So that said, you only really have one option and it pains me to say it - take the refund and look at another brand.

 

[Wolfy]

Okay, now I see the issue. I also got a price on a Grand L but they were like $5-$6,000 more. Maybe if you had the other valve, the holes could be redrilled. It's sad that you even have to come up with a solution to a problem that shouldn't exist.

 

[CHDinCT]

Don't forget the B3300 as kuboman suggested. Should retail for about the same money as your L2800 Same 3PH lift capacity, but about 600-700 lbs. More hp. Load the tires and have them add wheel weights. It does not have position control but it also doesn't have the jerky 3PH of the standard L series. That issue was/is exclusive to the standard L's from what I've read. Just trying to give you another option if money to upgrade to the B3030 or Grand L is an issue.

 

[MetroGuy]

Teg, is your tractor several years old? I'm asking, because if you got your valve changed, then the new valve must be the same one that is on my 2010 model L-2800. I am told by my dealer and the service Rep that the original old valve was indeed terrible, and that most of the owners who got that replaced with the newer one that they started putting in production back around 2005 or so, found that the "fix" was tremendous. Those of us who never got to see the old valve work, just don't realize how bad they were and like those owners, would probably be glad to have it the way it is now. I guess its all relative. Thing is, the new valve just doesn't work for me in my application of using this tractor and that is a shame. I will take a hard look at the B3030. The price difference for the Grand L-3240 is just too much. I'm not willing to spend $6000.00 more. I don't care how nice or good the Grand L is.

 

[kuboman]

Kuboman, when you say the 3030 is not an L, what are you speaking of mostly. Is it size of frame and weight of tractor, which could prevent me from using the implements I already have (the 6' blade and the 5' box scraper)? Actually, the 3030 has a lot more features than the basic L, which might be handy.

The L series is just more tractor, about a 1000# more of just tractor. I have both and even the underpowered L3130 I had was more tractor than my B3200.
I am not saying that a B could not handle your implements but I think after having the L that a smaller tractor would seem just that, small. As I said before getting larger tires makes quite a difference to how a tractor handles and having lots of ballast helps with what the tractor can do. I would find a dealer with a B3300 and see what you think. As for other brands that is your choice but you won't find anything better for the $$$ as you will with Kubota.:thumbsup:

 

[ChuckinNH]

I have the B2620, and I can say that although it suits my needs, it wouldn't work with your implements at all. I didn't like the quarter inching valve on my 3pt hitch until I found out how to adjust it, and now I doubt that position control would be any better for the kind of grading work you are doing. I've been using my 4' box blade this last week quite a bit, and have been pleased with the action of a properly adjusted quarter inching valve. ( done simply by adjusting the stops in the fender) What I'm getting around to here is that I do think that a B3300, or perhaps B3200 would suit your needs. Make sure you drive them though, and are happy with them up front. Some folks complain about vibration with the 4 cylinder engine that Kubota uses in these tractors, and the quarter inching may not be for everyone. If one of those doesn't work, I would take the refund, and look at the Kioti CK30 perhaps, or maybe one of the basic JD's (3032E, etc.) Another option is the basic New Holland, though they have changed the numbering on them so I don't know what they are now. My neighbor has a new Massey 1528 that is very close to what you have, but possibly has a few more frills. His did come with a skid steer quick attach bucket, and he has been quite happy with it as far as I know. He has used my chipper, and other implements on it. I haven't used it, but I've helped hook up implements, etc, and it is considerably heavier than my Kubota all the way around as are the Kioti's. I hate to say it, but I think you would be happiest in the end with the other orange, or a Massey, etc. It is a shame that there are issues like the vibration, or jerky 3pt, etc. with Kubota's that are otherwise perfect for the work we do. Other colors will keep the price where you need it to be, and give you the weight, etc. you probably want.

 

[teg]

Teg, is your tractor several years old?

My tractor is 2005... it had the original valve. Not sure if kubota went back to that same jerky valve as before... or if it's a new jerky valve

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Fsjf6xNqZM&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL

Look under my name and you'll see others. I was truly trying to raise it as slow as I could.

 

[Harvest Moon]

MetroGuy, maybe you're the guy some of us have been waiting for to try one of the modifications that have been suggested? Several of us believe if the flow of fluid to the valve or cylinder were reduced, the jerkiness would be reduced or possibly eliminated....

I do know this, if you raise the loader at the same time as you raise the 3PH the problem goes away. Of course there would be less hydraulic flow going to the 3PH at that time as the 3PH is after the Power Beyond port on the control valve of the loader.

And at least two suggestions have been put forth to reduce the flow. I've been thinking maybe we could modify the ports on the lowering speed valve to reduce flow. Although, I'm really not sure if it would work or how exactly to pull it off. It would help if I knew how to calculate the required port size.

Consider canoetrpr's suggestion:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/135167-my-quest-grand-3-point-8.html

Here's a photograph of my hydraulic block. The port furthest to the left (towards the rear of the tractor) is where the pressurized fluid from the loader (or rear remote in my case) PB port goes in to feed the 3 PT valve.

The 3PT valve is the last valve in the circuit.

In my picture, you see a hose that hooks up to this to go towards the rear of the tractor. This is because I have rear remotes. If you don't then the hose from here goes to the loader instead. In my case the loader is the first valve in the circuit, then my rear remotes then the 3PT valve.

The port that is furthest down on the right hand side is the return to tank from the loader. Depressurized fluid that has been used up by the loader valve is returned to the tank here.

So the theory is:

- What we need is a flow control valve in between the loader (or rear remotes in my case) PB port and the PB inlet on the hyd. block that I have pointed out.

- The tank port that I pointed to (furthest down on the rhs) can be teed to so that it used fluid from the loader and excess fluid from the flow control valve can be returned to the tank. This is is the only line that can be teed.

Easiest way I think to do this:

- There is a nice area just under the loader valve where a flow control valve can be attached. The loader valve is bolted on to a plate that is welded onto the loader frame. The plate that the loader valve is bolted onto serves as a good spot IMHO for those that don't have rear remotes, to mount the flow control valve on.

- Simply follow the hose from the PB port of the hydraulic block (furthest to the left), to where it connects to the loader valve. This is the PB port of the loader valve.

- Disconnect this hose from the loader valve and connect it to the OUT of the flow control valve.

- Then connect a new (small - 1 to 2 ft should be plenty) hose from the PB port of the loader - where you unhooked the original hose, to the IN port of the flow control valve.

- Then connect a new hose from the EXCESS OUT port of the flow control valve and route it to the hydraulic block.

- Tee the TANK port of the hydraulic block, reconnect the hose that was already there (from the loader) back to it, and then connect the hose from the EXCESS OUT port from the flow control valve to the other opening of the tee.

- Open the flow control valve all the way, fire up the tractor, and adjust the flow control valve until the 3PT jerkyness goes away.

I would estimate that the total for parts - flow control valve, shipping, one extra hydraulic hose, fittings would probably be ~$125. Maybe a couple bucks for hardware to mount the valve to the loader's bracket and a can of Kubota orange paint to paint the flow control valve - say another $10 to 15 bucks, so that it looks like it belongs there . Total probably $150.

Not sure when I will try this out as I'm not suffering nearly as much as you guys with the new jerky 3 PT valve. I'd like mine to be smoother just so I can feel warm and fuzzy on the inside. This setup REALLY needs to be tried by someone with one of the newer jerky 3 PT valves. I predict that the difference to my setup since I have the improved 1/4 inch at a time valve will be more suttle.

Bear in mind that I have written the above note with a user who does not have a rear remote setup primarily in mind. The EXACT same thing could be done if you have rear remotes and your rear remotes will also get the reduced flow - in addition to the 3PT valve. Now this is not an issue for someone line me who uses rear remotes for a top n tilt + snow blower chute. However if you have a log splitter or something that is hyd driven and needs the additional flow, it might be best to modify the above so that the flow control valve is installed between the PB port of the rear remotes and the hyd. block, instead of the PB port of the loader and the hyd block.

I don't believe either suggestion would cost as much as your other options and if you pull it off, it would leave you with the perfect tractor! And solve an age old mystery. And probably rattle Kubota. But it's a gamble.

 

[Chilly807]

This reminds me of the movie "Groundhog Day" with Bill Murray, where he keeps reliving the same day over and over.. this thing just keeps coming back, like a cat.

Much as I'd like to see this issue solved, you have the easiest option of all.

Take Kubota up on their offer of a refund, and be done with them. Deere, New Holland and others make good tractors without this frustrating problem. They didn't get to be the size they are by building inferior machinery. I'm brand loyal to Kubota in most things, but the 3-point thing isn't one of them.

If they've exhausted all the avenues they're willing to go down, then anything you try may void your warranty.

Mine is jumpy too (2009 L3400), but not bad enough that it overshadows everything else the tractor does so well. I've got a few ideas about how to fix it, but I'll wait until the warranty is over before I try it. And I'll have to have time on my hands, and nothing better to do, so this may take a while...

Good luck, let us know what you decide to do.

Sean

 

[k0ua]

[quote=Chilly807;2436891]This reminds me of the movie "Groundhog Day" with Bill Murray, where he keeps reliving the same day over and over.. this thing just keeps coming back, like a cat.

Much as I'd like to see this issue solved, you have the easiest option of all.

Take Kubota up on their offer of a refund, and be done with them. Deere, New Holland and others make good tractors without this frustrating problem. They didn't get to be the size they are by building inferior machinery. I'm brand loyal to Kubota in most things, but the 3-point thing isn't one of them.

If they've exhausted all the avenues they're willing to go down, then anything you try may void your warranty.

Mine is jumpy too (2009 L3400), but not bad enough that it overshadows everything else the tractor does so well. I've got a few ideas about how to fix it, but I'll wait until the warranty is over before I try it. And I'll have to have time on my hands, and nothing better to do, so this may take a while...

Good luck, let us know what you decide to do.

Sean[/quote]

Or "They stab it with their steely knives, but just can't kill the beast"
appologies to the Eagles.

Hey Sean, you do know if you really come up with a way to fix this with lets say less than $200 bucks, and 4 hours of time. You could sell this as a kit, and make yourself some real money. It's all on your shoulders now Sean. No pressure...

James K0UA