whats close to a L-2800?

[Mpking]

It sounds to me like you have the right size tractor for the job and that the B3030 and L3240 aren't really going to work for you. I think you could make the B work like Kuboman said, but you'd probably rather have a tractor with the weight of an L series. Sounds like the L3240 is out due to the price. So that said, you only really have one option and it pains me to say it - take the refund and look at another brand.

 

[Wolfy]

Okay, now I see the issue. I also got a price on a Grand L but they were like $5-$6,000 more. Maybe if you had the other valve, the holes could be redrilled. It's sad that you even have to come up with a solution to a problem that shouldn't exist.

 

[CHDinCT]

Don't forget the B3300 as kuboman suggested. Should retail for about the same money as your L2800 Same 3PH lift capacity, but about 600-700 lbs. More hp. Load the tires and have them add wheel weights. It does not have position control but it also doesn't have the jerky 3PH of the standard L series. That issue was/is exclusive to the standard L's from what I've read. Just trying to give you another option if money to upgrade to the B3030 or Grand L is an issue.

 

[MetroGuy]

Teg, is your tractor several years old? I'm asking, because if you got your valve changed, then the new valve must be the same one that is on my 2010 model L-2800. I am told by my dealer and the service Rep that the original old valve was indeed terrible, and that most of the owners who got that replaced with the newer one that they started putting in production back around 2005 or so, found that the "fix" was tremendous. Those of us who never got to see the old valve work, just don't realize how bad they were and like those owners, would probably be glad to have it the way it is now. I guess its all relative. Thing is, the new valve just doesn't work for me in my application of using this tractor and that is a shame. I will take a hard look at the B3030. The price difference for the Grand L-3240 is just too much. I'm not willing to spend $6000.00 more. I don't care how nice or good the Grand L is.

 

[kuboman]

Kuboman, when you say the 3030 is not an L, what are you speaking of mostly. Is it size of frame and weight of tractor, which could prevent me from using the implements I already have (the 6' blade and the 5' box scraper)? Actually, the 3030 has a lot more features than the basic L, which might be handy.

The L series is just more tractor, about a 1000# more of just tractor. I have both and even the underpowered L3130 I had was more tractor than my B3200.
I am not saying that a B could not handle your implements but I think after having the L that a smaller tractor would seem just that, small. As I said before getting larger tires makes quite a difference to how a tractor handles and having lots of ballast helps with what the tractor can do. I would find a dealer with a B3300 and see what you think. As for other brands that is your choice but you won't find anything better for the $$$ as you will with Kubota.:thumbsup:

 

[ChuckinNH]

I have the B2620, and I can say that although it suits my needs, it wouldn't work with your implements at all. I didn't like the quarter inching valve on my 3pt hitch until I found out how to adjust it, and now I doubt that position control would be any better for the kind of grading work you are doing. I've been using my 4' box blade this last week quite a bit, and have been pleased with the action of a properly adjusted quarter inching valve. ( done simply by adjusting the stops in the fender) What I'm getting around to here is that I do think that a B3300, or perhaps B3200 would suit your needs. Make sure you drive them though, and are happy with them up front. Some folks complain about vibration with the 4 cylinder engine that Kubota uses in these tractors, and the quarter inching may not be for everyone. If one of those doesn't work, I would take the refund, and look at the Kioti CK30 perhaps, or maybe one of the basic JD's (3032E, etc.) Another option is the basic New Holland, though they have changed the numbering on them so I don't know what they are now. My neighbor has a new Massey 1528 that is very close to what you have, but possibly has a few more frills. His did come with a skid steer quick attach bucket, and he has been quite happy with it as far as I know. He has used my chipper, and other implements on it. I haven't used it, but I've helped hook up implements, etc, and it is considerably heavier than my Kubota all the way around as are the Kioti's. I hate to say it, but I think you would be happiest in the end with the other orange, or a Massey, etc. It is a shame that there are issues like the vibration, or jerky 3pt, etc. with Kubota's that are otherwise perfect for the work we do. Other colors will keep the price where you need it to be, and give you the weight, etc. you probably want.

 

[teg]

Teg, is your tractor several years old?

My tractor is 2005... it had the original valve. Not sure if kubota went back to that same jerky valve as before... or if it's a new jerky valve

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Fsjf6xNqZM&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL

Look under my name and you'll see others. I was truly trying to raise it as slow as I could.

 

[Harvest Moon]

MetroGuy, maybe you're the guy some of us have been waiting for to try one of the modifications that have been suggested? Several of us believe if the flow of fluid to the valve or cylinder were reduced, the jerkiness would be reduced or possibly eliminated....

I do know this, if you raise the loader at the same time as you raise the 3PH the problem goes away. Of course there would be less hydraulic flow going to the 3PH at that time as the 3PH is after the Power Beyond port on the control valve of the loader.

And at least two suggestions have been put forth to reduce the flow. I've been thinking maybe we could modify the ports on the lowering speed valve to reduce flow. Although, I'm really not sure if it would work or how exactly to pull it off. It would help if I knew how to calculate the required port size.

Consider canoetrpr's suggestion:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/135167-my-quest-grand-3-point-8.html

Here's a photograph of my hydraulic block. The port furthest to the left (towards the rear of the tractor) is where the pressurized fluid from the loader (or rear remote in my case) PB port goes in to feed the 3 PT valve.

The 3PT valve is the last valve in the circuit.

In my picture, you see a hose that hooks up to this to go towards the rear of the tractor. This is because I have rear remotes. If you don't then the hose from here goes to the loader instead. In my case the loader is the first valve in the circuit, then my rear remotes then the 3PT valve.

The port that is furthest down on the right hand side is the return to tank from the loader. Depressurized fluid that has been used up by the loader valve is returned to the tank here.

So the theory is:

- What we need is a flow control valve in between the loader (or rear remotes in my case) PB port and the PB inlet on the hyd. block that I have pointed out.

- The tank port that I pointed to (furthest down on the rhs) can be teed to so that it used fluid from the loader and excess fluid from the flow control valve can be returned to the tank. This is is the only line that can be teed.

Easiest way I think to do this:

- There is a nice area just under the loader valve where a flow control valve can be attached. The loader valve is bolted on to a plate that is welded onto the loader frame. The plate that the loader valve is bolted onto serves as a good spot IMHO for those that don't have rear remotes, to mount the flow control valve on.

- Simply follow the hose from the PB port of the hydraulic block (furthest to the left), to where it connects to the loader valve. This is the PB port of the loader valve.

- Disconnect this hose from the loader valve and connect it to the OUT of the flow control valve.

- Then connect a new (small - 1 to 2 ft should be plenty) hose from the PB port of the loader - where you unhooked the original hose, to the IN port of the flow control valve.

- Then connect a new hose from the EXCESS OUT port of the flow control valve and route it to the hydraulic block.

- Tee the TANK port of the hydraulic block, reconnect the hose that was already there (from the loader) back to it, and then connect the hose from the EXCESS OUT port from the flow control valve to the other opening of the tee.

- Open the flow control valve all the way, fire up the tractor, and adjust the flow control valve until the 3PT jerkyness goes away.

I would estimate that the total for parts - flow control valve, shipping, one extra hydraulic hose, fittings would probably be ~$125. Maybe a couple bucks for hardware to mount the valve to the loader's bracket and a can of Kubota orange paint to paint the flow control valve - say another $10 to 15 bucks, so that it looks like it belongs there . Total probably $150.

Not sure when I will try this out as I'm not suffering nearly as much as you guys with the new jerky 3 PT valve. I'd like mine to be smoother just so I can feel warm and fuzzy on the inside. This setup REALLY needs to be tried by someone with one of the newer jerky 3 PT valves. I predict that the difference to my setup since I have the improved 1/4 inch at a time valve will be more suttle.

Bear in mind that I have written the above note with a user who does not have a rear remote setup primarily in mind. The EXACT same thing could be done if you have rear remotes and your rear remotes will also get the reduced flow - in addition to the 3PT valve. Now this is not an issue for someone line me who uses rear remotes for a top n tilt + snow blower chute. However if you have a log splitter or something that is hyd driven and needs the additional flow, it might be best to modify the above so that the flow control valve is installed between the PB port of the rear remotes and the hyd. block, instead of the PB port of the loader and the hyd block.

I don't believe either suggestion would cost as much as your other options and if you pull it off, it would leave you with the perfect tractor! And solve an age old mystery. And probably rattle Kubota. But it's a gamble.

 

[Chilly807]

This reminds me of the movie "Groundhog Day" with Bill Murray, where he keeps reliving the same day over and over.. this thing just keeps coming back, like a cat.

Much as I'd like to see this issue solved, you have the easiest option of all.

Take Kubota up on their offer of a refund, and be done with them. Deere, New Holland and others make good tractors without this frustrating problem. They didn't get to be the size they are by building inferior machinery. I'm brand loyal to Kubota in most things, but the 3-point thing isn't one of them.

If they've exhausted all the avenues they're willing to go down, then anything you try may void your warranty.

Mine is jumpy too (2009 L3400), but not bad enough that it overshadows everything else the tractor does so well. I've got a few ideas about how to fix it, but I'll wait until the warranty is over before I try it. And I'll have to have time on my hands, and nothing better to do, so this may take a while...

Good luck, let us know what you decide to do.

Sean

 

[k0ua]

[quote=Chilly807;2436891]This reminds me of the movie "Groundhog Day" with Bill Murray, where he keeps reliving the same day over and over.. this thing just keeps coming back, like a cat.

Much as I'd like to see this issue solved, you have the easiest option of all.

Take Kubota up on their offer of a refund, and be done with them. Deere, New Holland and others make good tractors without this frustrating problem. They didn't get to be the size they are by building inferior machinery. I'm brand loyal to Kubota in most things, but the 3-point thing isn't one of them.

If they've exhausted all the avenues they're willing to go down, then anything you try may void your warranty.

Mine is jumpy too (2009 L3400), but not bad enough that it overshadows everything else the tractor does so well. I've got a few ideas about how to fix it, but I'll wait until the warranty is over before I try it. And I'll have to have time on my hands, and nothing better to do, so this may take a while...

Good luck, let us know what you decide to do.

Sean[/quote]

Or "They stab it with their steely knives, but just can't kill the beast"
appologies to the Eagles.

Hey Sean, you do know if you really come up with a way to fix this with lets say less than $200 bucks, and 4 hours of time. You could sell this as a kit, and make yourself some real money. It's all on your shoulders now Sean. No pressure...

James K0UA