Wheel Spacer 27-2910

[DaveM]

As promised...

Well, after aprx. 10 months of waiting... with many excuses, stories and blank stares from my dealer, I'm now the proud owner of a pair of custom made, whiz bang wheel spacers. I just got the tractor back last night during a snow shower so I didn't get a good look at them yet. However, I know they're made of stainless steel and are about 5/8" to 3/4" thick. They should do the job. Unfortunately, I did have to pay for them which was not expected. They charged me their cost which was $114 each and $1 per bolt. The original bolts and studs were not long enough. They also couldn't find any studs the right length so I'm using just bolts until they find the studs. Not holding my breath on those either /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif.

They couldn't tell me if the place that made them is willing to make any more but did give me their contact info. RMJ Enterprises, Inc., 42 S. Main St., PO Box 202, Afton, NY 13730-0202 tel. 607-639-1700, FAX 607-639-3000 (Caveat Emptor!)

FWIW, my sales person said he though these were over priced and could have been made much easier and cheaper if they had used aluminum instead of SS.

Good Luck- Dave

 

[RAllen]

Dave

Good for you!/w3tcompact/icons/grin.gif

Sure wish you got a photo you could post before your dealer put them on. I would never ask you to take them off for put if you do every need to take them off how about a photo?

Wow they are expensive. Why stainless? Would not regular steel work as well? Don't know about aluminum. Guess I will call them and see if they can make up another set perhaps we could get up a group order if anyone else is interested. Did the machine shop set the studs er bolts or will I have to put the threads on the spacer?

Rick

 

[DaveM]

Hi Rick,

I don't know why they were made from SS nor does my dealer. I don't think they specified a material when they contracted this out. Maybe painting regular steel is not effective in the long term against rust? I don't know about aluminum either but it seems doable... or at least my salesman thinks so. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

My dealer installed the new bolts. It's my understanding that the spacers themselves are not threaded. I believe the main purpose of having the studs (X2) is to ease alignment when one installs a wheel, especially a heavy loaded wheel. Because they didn't have the appropriate studs it was difficult for them to line up the spacers with the hub and wheel. I think they used some temporary bolts to get everything aligned and then pulled them out and put in the proper bolts. For that reason, I don't think I'll be taking them off myself unless absolutely necessary. When I get a chance though I'll take a photo of the rear end with the chains on.

Hey, let us know if you contact the fabricators and how you make out. OK?

Dave

 

[ronjhall]

Dave
Glad to hear that you have finally been able to get a set of spacers. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif Stainless Steel is not only expensive in the diameter needed for spacers. But is also difficult to machine.
When I was checking out the part number for the original spacer for an 8200. I also asked what the price would be. It was a little over $100.00 each. /w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif Yours are inline with that price.
Have you tried chains with spacers on?

 

[ronjhall]

Rick
Why don't you see how much manufacturer wants to make ones like I have? Click on this <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.tractorbynet.com/cgi-bin/compact/showthreaded.pl?Cat=&Board=owning&Number=88294&page=&view=&sb=&o=&vc=1#Post88294>link</A>. Fax them a copy of the picture and dimensions. You will not need any special bolts or studs.

 

[DaveM]

Hi Ron,

Yes, it's good to finally be "spaced" /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif.

I believe part of the reason it took so long to get the spacers was they were having problems machining this size of SS. They may have actually done the work in anothew shop with a stronger/better lathe. All in all I agree the price I paid is OK but I got the R4 tires and the good chains because my salesperson said it was alright. He did not expect me to pay anything for these things but was shot down by his superiors.

I hope to find the time this weekend to install the chains. If I remember, I'll borrow a camera and post a photo next week.

I'll have to look at your diagrams and photos again but I can't quite imagine how you could use your original bolts and studs. Spacers bolted to the hubs then the wheels bolted to the spacers? I'll check it out again.

Plow On!

Dave

 

[DaveM]

Ron,

I just looked at your photo again. Your spacers are obviously much more complicated. To start with your's have 12 holes! I now see how you could use the original sized hardware. I'd probably would have to wait another 10 months to get something that nice. /w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif/w3tcompact/icons/grin.gif

Dave

 

[RAllen]

Ron

Are yours for a 2710/2910? Since I know nothing about machining, I want to make sure the spacers fit my tractor. How did you get the specs.? Perhaps I should just contact a local machine shop. Any idea on the size of the lathe needed to make these babys?

Thanks for you information, it APPEARS/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif yours may have a better design. Do you just use longer wheel bolts? As I said I really do know what I am doing with this.

Rick

 

[ronjhall]

Rick
My spacers are made for a B8200 <font color=orange>Kubota</font color=orange>. The 27-2910 tractors use the same bolt pattern and wheel bore.
You will need to get 8; ¾"-16 X 1½" bolts. The studs and nut's can be ordered from your Kubota dealer. 12; 3/4 flat and lock washers are needed. The spacers that I have allow you to use the original bolts to hold the spacer to the tractor.
I have some time this weekend. If all works out I plan to install mine. I'll take some pictures of how they fit.

 

[RAllen]

Ronh

Looking forward to your report. Goodluck!

Rick