Wheel Weights

[Doughknob]

How in the world did we survive on the farm with 2 wheel drive tractors? I guess it was because we ran wheel weights and loaded tires. I rarely use 4WD on my tractors. I rarely use the brakes for stopping.

Precisely. Same here. Been driving 2wd for decades with not even a close call. Most did Not have weights at all. But all were older heavy machines.

 

[LouNY]

You that didn't use the brakes to stop even with 2wd tractors must be on some pretty flat ground.
I would hate too try and count the number of times that I have been inside the old IH dry disc brakes.
Replacing discs, springs and balls then turning the drums down and putting shims between the drum and
tractor to adjust the clearance.
And even having to work on some of the wet brakes that actually wore out.
We work fields that even down in the lower gears you need a brake application to bring the engine rpm down.
And that is with 2 and 4wd tractors

 

[Doughknob]

Most likely those of us who did real farming and used 2wd trctors had an implement in the ground or were pulling something heavy that did not roll well or had a 3-point implement on....

 

[LouNY]

Most likely those of us who did real farming and used 2wd trctors had an implement in the ground or were pulling something heavy that did not roll well or had a 3-point implement on....

What's real farming????, I must not know what I do often????

Think that tractor stops without using the brakes?????

Care to work those fields without brakes.
As far as any REAL FARMING I think I can cover that.

Had to reattach the pics for some reason

 

[number two]

And the OP hasn't been seen since posting to see all these replies!

 

[Agvg]

The best argument for 4WD is the sale number of new 2WD tractors, here I live it's zero and has been sins the early eighties.

 

[rScotty]

Do rear wheel weight let you operate in 2 wheel drive more? Just bought a Kubota M7060 and this is my first experience with this type of braking system. I usually drive in 2wd with the brake pedals split for manoueverability and was driving down the raod (dirt) and when I hit the brakes the rear wheels locked and I hardly even slowed down. Very scary! Now using 4wd all the time but have to switch to 2wd for sharp turns.

Did you have a load in the bucket? That will change weight distribution enough so that the brakes cause the rear tires to skid. Skidding the rears with a load in the bucket is VERY DANGEROUS GOING DOWNHILL.

Tractors only have brakes on the rear tires. Driving in 4wd couples the front tires to the rear mechanically...so the effect is as though you have brakes on the front as well. You always do that going down hills. But they are still undersized 2 wheel mechanical brakes.
Most of us simply do not drive a tractor very fast and never fast when it is loaded. The brakes are inadequate at best of US tractors. So go slow, especially down hill. Don't tow much and always be prepared to drop the bucket or implement to the ground for an anchor.
It's differerent in Europe, their tractors are decades ahead in tractor technology.

Oh, all US tractors are 4wd assist. They are not made to be run in 4WD all the time. The front tires need to slip to avoid torsional wind-up on the transmission and driveshafts. You can tell when this is happening because it will become very difficult to shift out of 4wd.
You will have to rock it back and forth to get the 4wd lever to move. That is your warning sign that the shafts have torsional stress on them. And it is the only one you get.

You can use 4wd all the time of course if you don't mind risking the repairs. It's only money....
Most of us use 4wd only when we must unless the surface is slippery like a dusty road or icy drive. And even there don't drive in 4wd unless you have to. Especially with the loader bucket full.
enjoy!
rScotty

 

[Dave at Rockcliffe By-the]

You SHOULD have said, MOST tractors, only have brakes on the rear wheels, because SOME tractors do have brakes all around.

SR

Yes my old Case International had brakes all around so hitting the brakes on my brand new M7060 in 2WD really spooked me.

 

[Dave at Rockcliffe By-the]

Wheel weights definitely will help. But depending on how steep the hill you still may want to use 4WD.

Oh yeah! Use it all the time just much easier on the tires on the flat if they are not working against each other on the tight corners or on the asphalt.

 

[Dave at Rockcliffe By-the]

Did you have a load in the bucket? That will change weight distribution enough so that the brakes cause the rear tires to skid. Skidding the rears with a load in the bucket is VERY DANGEROUS GOING DOWNHILL.

Tractors only have brakes on the rear tires. Driving in 4wd couples the front tires to the rear mechanically...so the effect is as though you have brakes on the front as well. You always do that going down hills. But they are still undersized 2 wheel mechanical brakes.
Most of us simply do not drive a tractor very fast and never fast when it is loaded. The brakes are inadequate at best of US tractors. So go slow, especially down hill. Don't tow much and always be prepared to drop the bucket or implement to the ground for an anchor.
It's differerent in Europe, their tractors are decades ahead in tractor technology.

Oh, all US tractors are 4wd assist. They are not made to be run in 4WD all the time. The front tires need to slip to avoid torsional wind-up on the transmission and driveshafts. You can tell when this is happening because it will become very difficult to shift out of 4wd.
You will have to rock it back and forth to get the 4wd lever to move. That is your warning sign that the shafts have torsional stress on them. And it is the only one you get.

You can use 4wd all the time of course if you don't mind risking the repairs. It's only money....
Most of us use 4wd only when we must unless the surface is slippery like a dusty road or icy drive. And even there don't drive in 4wd unless you have to. Especially with the loader bucket full.
enjoy!
rScotty

My rear tites are loaded but can't drive in 2WD with the bucket loaded without spinning. That's one of the reasons I was asking how much the wheel weights helped.

 

[Jstpssng]

If you do opt for weights I suggest that you look at Everything Attachments. You may get more weights than you need but the extras would be easy to sell or swap. I also wouldn't buy a bolt kit; that's just an overpriced set of carriage bolts, of which I only used 1/2 of them.

 

[Jstpssng]

Here's the link. For some reason it won't allow me to edit my previous post.

https://www.everythingattachments.com/Tractor-Wheel-Weights-s/10555.htm

OUCH! They are a lot more pricey than I remember.

I went through my Kubota dealer, but wish I had bought from EA. At the time a TBN member downstate had also expressed an interest, and we could probably have split the cost.

 

[Gee Ray]

Are you carrying any ballast?

 

[ovrszd]

Loaders weren't as common place as they are now.

Back then, having a loader was a luxury. Way more loader tractors now.

That said....I'm sure many soiled pants and oh $hit moments happens back then to when you combine loaders, 2wd, and slopes. But lacking internet.....you didn't hear about it all the time

And older tractor's weight ratio was much heavier on the rear. They were intended to pull ground engagement attachments. Utility grade tractors today carry a much higher weight ratio on the front.

In the Op's case he probably doesn't have fluid in the rears, or wheel weights, so he's very light back there.

I use fluid in the rears plus cast weight. If doing heavy loader work I also carry 12-1300 lbs of ballast on the 3pt.

 

[ovrszd]

The OP's M7060 is the heaviest tractor still considered a compact tractor

An M7060 is a Utility Class tractor. Not a compact. The L series tractors are considered Compact Class.

 

[MossyDell]

Rear weights and loading the rear tires will help with the braking and pulling power of your tractor.

I forgot one time to engage 4WD going down a hill. Not good. Gets your attention.

I've wondered though if the tractor being much heavier from loaded rears, also carrying an implement or rear weights, overpowers the brakes? Mine seem weak as it is.

Edited to add: I am NOT questioning my ballast. Just noting that making the tractor heavier challenges the brakes more. So 4WD is even more vital when descending slopes.

 

[Hermio]

I have loaded rear tires, which adds 1300# per tire. Still not enough to make the tractor behave well in 2WD on hills with no rear attachment. Even with a rear attachment, it sometimes gets stuck in mud or when trying to back up. So, I use 4WD whenever I will be on any slope or in muddy conditions. My loader is a 4-way type, so the bucket alone weighs about 1000#.

 

[ForestGrump]

My tractor is a 4x4 Hahindra eMax 22. I primarily plow snow but with no weights and chained on all 4. I have a soft cab, rear facing camera, rear light bar, top front facing LED lamps, a rear scrapper blade that can be angled by the 2,000# linear actuator. We can get snows from 5 to 7 feet and huge icy berms both of which are no problem. 20 degree grades are common. I only use the break to stop at stop signs.

 

[LD1]

I have loaded rear tires, which adds 1300# per tire. Still not enough to make the tractor behave well in 2WD on hills with no rear attachment. Even with a rear attachment, it sometimes gets stuck in mud or when trying to back up. So, I use 4WD whenever I will be on any slope or in muddy conditions. My loader is a 4-way type, so the bucket alone weighs about 1000#.

You either have a huge tractor not listed in your profile or you "loaded" tires are loaded with lead.

Im betting you have 1300# TOTAL, not "per tire"

 

[Hermio]

Mahindra 5035HST. The dealer told me it was 1300# per tire. I specifically asked that. Rimguard is 10.7-11 lb/gallon, so that works out to 120 gallons or so per tire. Rear tire size is 16.9x24. Since that seems a bit much to fit into the tire, I decided to look it up on the Rimguard site. Lo and behold, you are correct. It works out to about 1300# combined for both tires. In any case, it is still squirrely with no rear implement in 2WD.