When do you let the 3ph stabilizers float?

[Farmwithjunk]

I can't think of instances where sway is desirable, but differences in implement hitch width may force adjustments to be made.

You want the draft arms to have the freedom to move side to side quite a bit when you're pulling a plow. (As was already mentioned...soil engaging implements)

If not, any steering corrections with the plow in the ground, however slight, would be almost impossible to make. Same goes with a mounted disc, subsoiler, ect. If a plow is set up properly, and the tractor is set at the right width, a plow will follow right in line behind the tractor without sway chains/bars/blocks.

 

[RobS]

You want the draft arms to have the freedom to move side to side quite a bit when you're pulling a plow. (As was already mentioned...soil engaging implements)

If not, any steering corrections with the plow in the ground, however slight, would be almost impossible to make. Same goes with a mounted disc, subsoiler, ect. If a plow is set up properly, and the tractor is set at the right width, a plow will follow right in line behind the tractor without sway chains/bars/blocks.

Hey, I can go home now! I've learned something new. All this occasional talk on plows makes me want to get one and try it out. Sounds like a lot of fun. Thanks for the wisdom Farm.

 

[eanjay]

As I understand it, anti-sway bars or chains are there to stop the impliment attached to the 3PH from hitting the rear tires?

EanJay

 

[greg_g]

Arrow pointing to mine...

Uh huh. Your question made me think of vertical stabilizers. I never heard of floating the horizontal stabilizers. Interesting, but dangerous. I've got quite a few TPH implements, and I'd be worried about each and every one of them causing the lower lift amrs to strike the inside of my rear tire lugs.

//greg//

 

[Glowplug]

This started out as the most confusing thread I have ever read. Now that some of the terminology has been clarified it is informative.
_______________________________________________________________

If a plow is set up properly, and the tractor is set at the right width, a plow will follow right in line behind the tractor without sway chains/bars/blocks.

I have heard this same type of statement from farmers on more than one occassion. It's like it's some sort of complicated art that requires years of apprenticeship to set up a plow. Perhaps it is, but I just wish someone would explain it. What is the proper way to set up a plow.

 

[charlesw]

What is the proper way to set up a plow.

Well... I suppose I'm interested in hearing this, too! And, hey, you're welcome to come over to the house and demonstrate your technique for me!

 

[grizer]

With turning plow, deside on depth, say 6", block left wheels up on 6" blocks on level floor. Align plow in straight line with tractor, (offset bar on front of plow), adjust lift links to have plow flat on floor. As you can see, this is position tractor and plow will be in when operating with right wheels in a 6" furrow. Offset bar on front of plow and top center link may have to be fine adjusted for plow to track as it should behind tractor.
leave slack in sway bars or chains to let plow move if you hit anything.

 

[Doc_Bob]

I don't think my hitch has all the features or parts you are talking about and
I think the 3PH in this photo is from a 8N or something old and may not reflect what we have today but I hope it can help clear up terminology.

I don't see from the photo the option of floating?
Bob

 

[charlesw]

leave slack in sway bars or chains to let plow move if you hit anything.

Well, but, see? That's just the thing about this! When else do you let the sway bars move? Yeah, yeah, when you're pulling something that might jump side to side when it hits something. Well, everything I pull can hit something! A box blade has teeth and these bite into the ground which is full of great big rocks!

 

[Doc_Bob]

. Align plow in straight line with tractor, (offset bar on front of plow), adjust lift links to have plow flat on floor.

With a three bottom plow, how do I know when the plow is aligned straight with the tractor???
Bob

 

[Farmwithjunk]

This started out as the most confusing thread I have ever read. Now that some of the terminology has been clarified it is informative.
_______________________________________________________________


I have heard this same type of statement from farmers on more than one occassion. It's like it's some sort of complicated art that requires years of apprenticeship to set up a plow. Perhaps it is, but I just wish someone would explain it. What is the proper way to set up a plow.

Back in the day when I bought my 150 Massey, all my plowing was done with bigger tractors. I didn't buy a plow to go with the Massey. Years later, I put together a 2-bottom John Deere plow for use on the 150. Now that I'm more of a "collector" than a farmer, I'm trying to get the "right implements" to go with any tractors I'm restoring. That caused me to go out and buy ANOTHER plow. It's being shipped this way as we speak. It's a Massey FErguson model #66, 2X14" from the mid-1960's. When it arrives in a few days, I'll go over EVERY adjustment there is to make on the plow, as well as any changes that are required on tractor adjustments to comply with the needs of the plow. When I do so, I'm taking it one step at a time, photographing EVERYTHING. My plan ist to take pictures, then post each step of the adjustment, along with those pictures, to explain in great detail, just how to set up a plow. That fun should start in a couple weeks. There is more MISinformation floating around on plows than accurate information. Maybe with the help of several plow "owners manuals", and a few comments taken from my trusty old copy of "The Operation, Care and Repair of Farm Machinery" (John Deere issue from the 50's), I can dispell a few misconceptions.

Sorry it's not ready yet, but I have to wait for the plow to get here.

 

[RobS]

Sounds very interesting Farm, can't wait to see what you're up to. Thanks ahead of time for taking the time to enlighten the rest of us.

 

[grizer]

Farmwithjunk.
I realize I condensed a lot of info with short post, newbies will benifit from your future post, (turning plow 101).
New people will have mismatched equipment and wont know what they need to operate correctly, buying bargains without enough knowledge will get you there in a hurry.

Charlesw.
Very little slack in sway control when you are mowing, (near fence or obstructions) box blading or any equipment where you need accurate control of side movement. As Farm said, ground engaging is a different matter, you will need some movement for steering and to relieve strain on equipment when hitting roots, rocks and whatever else is buried. Draft control off, or set least sensitive for mowing, (or similiar equipment). Draft control on for ground engaging equipment, when operating right, draft control maintains steady load on tractor for good operation and plow or harrow depth.

Doc Bob.
Yes, you need tractor and equipment to be matched, (a lot can be done with mismatched equip if you are stuck with it, three plow into two, wheel width, etc). Left sides of plow feet that runs in furrow should be aligned lengthwise with tractor, right hand plow should be plow width, (14", 16", etc), to left of right rear wheel, when making next furrow, it should be even. Plow width should be close to rear wheel width or you will see some wheel track.

Now, reread original post, thanks.

 

[grizer]

Hey, Farm, I hope your new #66 2X14 is not like one I had. Bought a bargain, without seeing it and frame was bent, (tweaked, shimmed, twisted, bent and cussed until it worked fairly well), found out later it was used behind a large tractor to ditch, (when it was bent). I just bought a used John Deere 3X18, (trip feet) that looks good, havn't tried it yet.

 

[charlesw]

Draft control off, or set least sensitive for mowing

Huh. Well... My terrain is really rough, for now (haven't plowed it yet - that won't be until next Spring). I did, however, mow 3 acres this morning. I found that using draft control near its most sensitive kept my blades from hitting dirt as often as they used to with, say, my 9N. That is, of course, another story. Maybe I'll start a new thread to say how pleased I am with how well my 3930 does out there in comparison... Anyway, I set the draft control at about 3 (out of 10) and found that this made the tractor lift the mower when I went through little gullies. This is exactly what I would do by hand if I didn't have draft control...

Of course... Since you talk about it this way, perhaps I should read that section of the manual again (now that I have at least some idea of what that control does).

 

[grizer]

Charles, set front mowing height with main lever, let mower float and height of rear of mower should be controled by tail wheel, (adjust if needed) then it will follow contour of land, top link should have free movement, (slack) when in mowing position, (Joint on mower top, this you need if you dont have it) that is only tight when mower is raised. Front of mower should average about 1" lower than rear for best operation, Yes, draft control, (when set sensitive) will lift mower when it hits dirt mound, (or gopher mound) after damage may have been done, its trying to keep even load on engine. I raise mower a little when I see mounds, they are very hard on gearboxes and drivelines.

 

[Glowplug]

Back in the day when I bought my 150 Massey, all my plowing was done with bigger tractors. I didn't buy a plow to go with the Massey. Years later, I put together a 2-bottom John Deere plow for use on the 150. Now that I'm more of a "collector" than a farmer, I'm trying to get the "right implements" to go with any tractors I'm restoring. That caused me to go out and buy ANOTHER plow. It's being shipped this way as we speak. It's a Massey FErguson model #66, 2X14" from the mid-1960's. When it arrives in a few days, I'll go over EVERY adjustment there is to make on the plow, as well as any changes that are required on tractor adjustments to comply with the needs of the plow. When I do so, I'm taking it one step at a time, photographing EVERYTHING. My plan ist to take pictures, then post each step of the adjustment, along with those pictures, to explain in great detail, just how to set up a plow. That fun should start in a couple weeks. There is more MISinformation floating around on plows than accurate information. Maybe with the help of several plow "owners manuals", and a few comments taken from my trusty old copy of "The Operation, Care and Repair of Farm Machinery" (John Deere issue from the 50's), I can dispell a few misconceptions.

Sorry it's not ready yet, but I have to wait for the plow to get here.

Wow. I can't wait. Finally, a good, detailed, accurate explanation on setting up a plow on the way!

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Hey, Farm, I hope your new #66 2X14 is not like one I had. Bought a bargain, without seeing it and frame was bent, (tweaked, shimmed, twisted, bent and cussed until it worked fairly well), found out later it was used behind a large tractor to ditch, (when it was bent). I just bought a used John Deere 3X18, (trip feet) that looks good, havn't tried it yet.

This one is (A) no bargain, (B) I've seen it and USED it. (C) Money back guarantee. In it's entire life, it's plowed MAYBE 20 acres.

 

[grizer]

Very good on plow, you wont need to replace any points or wings, with only 20 acres use, most that old are very worn.

 

[charlesw]

Charles, set front mowing height with main lever, let mower float and height of rear of mower should be controled by tail wheel, (adjust if needed) then it will follow contour of land, top link should have free movement,

Sigh. I swear that my mechanic told me to have the mower higher in front! I've -never- mowed with it higher in back!

Given that the land is VERY rough (1'+ trenches, gullies and furrows over ALL of it) I think that I'd want to lower the wheel (raise the deck) some before trying to mow like that!