When do you let the 3ph stabilizers float?

[Farmwithjunk]

This started out as the most confusing thread I have ever read. Now that some of the terminology has been clarified it is informative.
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I have heard this same type of statement from farmers on more than one occassion. It's like it's some sort of complicated art that requires years of apprenticeship to set up a plow. Perhaps it is, but I just wish someone would explain it. What is the proper way to set up a plow.

Back in the day when I bought my 150 Massey, all my plowing was done with bigger tractors. I didn't buy a plow to go with the Massey. Years later, I put together a 2-bottom John Deere plow for use on the 150. Now that I'm more of a "collector" than a farmer, I'm trying to get the "right implements" to go with any tractors I'm restoring. That caused me to go out and buy ANOTHER plow. It's being shipped this way as we speak. It's a Massey FErguson model #66, 2X14" from the mid-1960's. When it arrives in a few days, I'll go over EVERY adjustment there is to make on the plow, as well as any changes that are required on tractor adjustments to comply with the needs of the plow. When I do so, I'm taking it one step at a time, photographing EVERYTHING. My plan ist to take pictures, then post each step of the adjustment, along with those pictures, to explain in great detail, just how to set up a plow. That fun should start in a couple weeks. There is more MISinformation floating around on plows than accurate information. Maybe with the help of several plow "owners manuals", and a few comments taken from my trusty old copy of "The Operation, Care and Repair of Farm Machinery" (John Deere issue from the 50's), I can dispell a few misconceptions.

Sorry it's not ready yet, but I have to wait for the plow to get here.

 

[RobS]

Sounds very interesting Farm, can't wait to see what you're up to. Thanks ahead of time for taking the time to enlighten the rest of us.

 

[grizer]

Farmwithjunk.
I realize I condensed a lot of info with short post, newbies will benifit from your future post, (turning plow 101).
New people will have mismatched equipment and wont know what they need to operate correctly, buying bargains without enough knowledge will get you there in a hurry.

Charlesw.
Very little slack in sway control when you are mowing, (near fence or obstructions) box blading or any equipment where you need accurate control of side movement. As Farm said, ground engaging is a different matter, you will need some movement for steering and to relieve strain on equipment when hitting roots, rocks and whatever else is buried. Draft control off, or set least sensitive for mowing, (or similiar equipment). Draft control on for ground engaging equipment, when operating right, draft control maintains steady load on tractor for good operation and plow or harrow depth.

Doc Bob.
Yes, you need tractor and equipment to be matched, (a lot can be done with mismatched equip if you are stuck with it, three plow into two, wheel width, etc). Left sides of plow feet that runs in furrow should be aligned lengthwise with tractor, right hand plow should be plow width, (14", 16", etc), to left of right rear wheel, when making next furrow, it should be even. Plow width should be close to rear wheel width or you will see some wheel track.

Now, reread original post, thanks.

 

[grizer]

Hey, Farm, I hope your new #66 2X14 is not like one I had. Bought a bargain, without seeing it and frame was bent, (tweaked, shimmed, twisted, bent and cussed until it worked fairly well), found out later it was used behind a large tractor to ditch, (when it was bent). I just bought a used John Deere 3X18, (trip feet) that looks good, havn't tried it yet.

 

[charlesw]

Draft control off, or set least sensitive for mowing

Huh. Well... My terrain is really rough, for now (haven't plowed it yet - that won't be until next Spring). I did, however, mow 3 acres this morning. I found that using draft control near its most sensitive kept my blades from hitting dirt as often as they used to with, say, my 9N. That is, of course, another story. Maybe I'll start a new thread to say how pleased I am with how well my 3930 does out there in comparison... Anyway, I set the draft control at about 3 (out of 10) and found that this made the tractor lift the mower when I went through little gullies. This is exactly what I would do by hand if I didn't have draft control...

Of course... Since you talk about it this way, perhaps I should read that section of the manual again (now that I have at least some idea of what that control does).

 

[grizer]

Charles, set front mowing height with main lever, let mower float and height of rear of mower should be controled by tail wheel, (adjust if needed) then it will follow contour of land, top link should have free movement, (slack) when in mowing position, (Joint on mower top, this you need if you dont have it) that is only tight when mower is raised. Front of mower should average about 1" lower than rear for best operation, Yes, draft control, (when set sensitive) will lift mower when it hits dirt mound, (or gopher mound) after damage may have been done, its trying to keep even load on engine. I raise mower a little when I see mounds, they are very hard on gearboxes and drivelines.

 

[Glowplug]

Back in the day when I bought my 150 Massey, all my plowing was done with bigger tractors. I didn't buy a plow to go with the Massey. Years later, I put together a 2-bottom John Deere plow for use on the 150. Now that I'm more of a "collector" than a farmer, I'm trying to get the "right implements" to go with any tractors I'm restoring. That caused me to go out and buy ANOTHER plow. It's being shipped this way as we speak. It's a Massey FErguson model #66, 2X14" from the mid-1960's. When it arrives in a few days, I'll go over EVERY adjustment there is to make on the plow, as well as any changes that are required on tractor adjustments to comply with the needs of the plow. When I do so, I'm taking it one step at a time, photographing EVERYTHING. My plan ist to take pictures, then post each step of the adjustment, along with those pictures, to explain in great detail, just how to set up a plow. That fun should start in a couple weeks. There is more MISinformation floating around on plows than accurate information. Maybe with the help of several plow "owners manuals", and a few comments taken from my trusty old copy of "The Operation, Care and Repair of Farm Machinery" (John Deere issue from the 50's), I can dispell a few misconceptions.

Sorry it's not ready yet, but I have to wait for the plow to get here.

Wow. I can't wait. Finally, a good, detailed, accurate explanation on setting up a plow on the way!

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Hey, Farm, I hope your new #66 2X14 is not like one I had. Bought a bargain, without seeing it and frame was bent, (tweaked, shimmed, twisted, bent and cussed until it worked fairly well), found out later it was used behind a large tractor to ditch, (when it was bent). I just bought a used John Deere 3X18, (trip feet) that looks good, havn't tried it yet.

This one is (A) no bargain, (B) I've seen it and USED it. (C) Money back guarantee. In it's entire life, it's plowed MAYBE 20 acres.

 

[grizer]

Very good on plow, you wont need to replace any points or wings, with only 20 acres use, most that old are very worn.

 

[charlesw]

Charles, set front mowing height with main lever, let mower float and height of rear of mower should be controled by tail wheel, (adjust if needed) then it will follow contour of land, top link should have free movement,

Sigh. I swear that my mechanic told me to have the mower higher in front! I've -never- mowed with it higher in back!

Given that the land is VERY rough (1'+ trenches, gullies and furrows over ALL of it) I think that I'd want to lower the wheel (raise the deck) some before trying to mow like that!