When do you replace tires?

[wolc123]

I replaced the fronts on my 1951 Ford 8N at 55 years.
The rears were badly cracked, so were replaced at 45 years.

I have the same tractor with loaded rears and 2000 hours. It is on its second set of fronts, but still has the original rears. I bought it from the widow of the original owner, with 1200 hours. One of the back rims looks like it is ready to go at any time. It is badly rusted, near the valve stem, and quite a bit of the tube is visible in that area.

I am hoping that I can get my spring plowing done with it this year, before that tube blows out. I dont plan on loading the tires again after I replace the rims. This tractor has always been stored inside, so that 70 year old rubber is still in decent shape.

 

[spruce Deere]

I replaced the fronts on the 790 after one thousand hours. Replaced them with the exact brand that came from the factory, titan tire ag tire. I felt the wear and duty from them was astounding. I was not easy on them, besides being on a 4wd steer axle.

Fronts always get scrubbed harder than rears, Especially 4wd axles. I knocked one off the rim once, carried untold loads while turning with the fel, watched the fronts grab traction just as good as the rears sub-soiling and such.

Front tires work HARD on 4wd tractors, harder than the rears all said and told, More so with a fel.

Fairly common around here for operators to go two set of fronts to one set rear, 30hp to 130hp

 

[wolc123]

I replaced the original front Titan R1's on my 2005 JD 4120 at around 800 hours. The sidewalls were cracked and large sections of rubber was flaking off. I bought Carlile replacements, the same size. Those front Titans just looked to be cheap, low quality tires. They were not showing any tread wear, nor were the backs which seem to be much better quality and are still on the tractor.

This tractor had always been stored inside when not on use, so I dont think it could have been UV damage that destroyed my original fronts. Also, I did not do that much heavy loader work with that tractor when they were on it. I am blaming their early demise on shoddy quality.

The Carlile Farm Special ST replacements now have almost the same number of hours on them, and are showing no signs of wear or rot. I have also done literally tons more heavy loader work with those, on a couple big barn demolition and construction projects.

 

[N80]

I do have rust around one of the rear rim valves. I guess that means they put calcium carbonate in the rears at the dealer. I don't know why anyone uses that stuff.

 

[wolc123]

I do have rust around one of the rear rim valves. I guess that means they put calcium carbonate in the rears at the dealer. I don't know why anyone uses that stuff.

It was a cheap way to put weight in the tires, and it adds a great deal of traction force and stability to the tractor. Added stability is better than from rim mounted iron weights because the liquid always flows down to the low side. Corrosion is the downside, and nothing will likely grow in the spot in the field, for a few years, where my tube finally lets go.

I am thankful for 70 plus years from the original calcium filled rims. I will probably use my other tractor for plowing after I put new non-filled rims on the old 8n. That one is about double the hp and weight, 4wd, and also has loaded rears (probably rim-guard). It lacks draft position on the hydraulics though, so maintaining uniform plow depth is trickier with it.

 

[N80]

It was a cheap way to put weight in the tires, and it adds a great deal of traction force and stability to the tractor. Added stability is better than from rim mounted iron weights because the liquid always flows down to the low side. Corrosion is the downside, and nothing will likely grow in the spot in the field, for a few years, where my tube finally lets go.

I am thankful for 70 plus years from the original calcium filled rims. I will probably use my other tractor for plowing after I put new non-filled rims on the old 8n. That one is about double the hp and weight, 4wd, and also has loaded rears (probably rim-guard). It lacks draft position on the hydraulics though, so maintaining uniform plow depth is trickier with it.

I understand why the tires are filled. It is an absolute must for my tractor and what I do. There are just much better options than calcium.

 

[wolc123]

I understand why the tires are filled. It is an absolute must for my tractor and what I do. There are just much better options than calcium.

They didn't have that many options back in the 50's.

 

[N80]

They didn't have that many options back in the 50's.

Agree, but my tractor is a 2005. I'm assuming it was the cheapest option.

 

[oosik]

I had calcium in my first tractor. Didn't make that same mistake with the second. My M6040 has rimguard in the rear tires.

I had to replace the front tires on my first tractor. Not because of wear. Both tires got sidewall slices from the sharp bedrock I have here on the property.

 

[Tx Jim]

I've been custom farming/hay baling since 1987. I've utilized one tractor with very worn/cracked rear tires strictly for pulling a 14 wheel rake for many yrs. The cleats were worn almost smooth/cracked sidewalls & one could almost see the air in the tubes!! I found a set of used 18.4X34 R1 tires with good cleats for $400 installed for the pair or those cracked tires would still be utilized raking hay. My rd hay baler pulling tractor Continental brand rear tires are over 20 yrs old with unknown miles of highway travel shown in photos below.

I replaced the frt tires on my Kubota M7040 MFWD at about 400 hrs just to get tubeless tires to get rid of tubes. This tractor now has 1600 hrs showing on it's speed/hour meter. Mesquite thorns & tire tubes don't get along very well!!!

I personally see no reason to replace ""good rear tires when only frt tires are needed"" on a MFWD tractor.