When do you replace tires?

[Lefty7]

I have 80 acres. This is located in an area called the Channeled Scablands - a large area abutting the Palouse on the north side. Several small spots on the property have exposed bedrock. This is basaltic lava bedrock. It can be as sharp as your grandfather's old straight razor.

I either avoid these spots or roll gingerly over them. They took large chunks out of the R-1's on my first tractor. So far, on the M6040, I'm OK. Live and learn.

In the 'One Thing to Remember Dept.': I had a local tire joint order and then mount a new ag tread front tire on the rim for my 'Bota L3940 - but I forgot to tell them: "keep the traction ribs going in the same direction as the old tire". I snatched the tire from them at 4:59pm on a Friday, and it was backwards. (This was not a tractor place!) I took it home, since I needed the tractor over the weekend, but then got them to flip it 'round the following week. A lotta extra mounting and dismounting and running-around hoo-hah. So mention it to the installer if it ain't your tractor dealer. ~Lefty7

 

[5030]

Neither of my M9's, 2002 and 2004 have any rim rust inside or outside. Internal rust is usually caused by loading tires which I do not do and external rust is caused by lack of preventative maintenance, like scratches and chips in the paint, which if left untreated will start to rust. My rims all get painted every other year or more often if they get scratched.

This last set of tires, even the tire guy remarked how good my rims looked inside, the OEM finish was fully intact and no rust anywhere and remember I farm with mine, not play toys.

Never had a rim issue but I do take care of my tractors, they are an investment for me.

 

[Rebeldad1]

Tires are cheap. Online sellers right to your door.

When you think you need tires you probably do.

Safety is expensive if ignored

If you have a front loader it is hard on tires.

Worn tires change the front to rear gear ratio on 4x4 tractors. Binding up gears can get really expensive.... on most into the thousands to fix if fixable.

Your choice. you will find many on here who are very satisfied to run till they drop. Never had a issue. Some on here had the issue and wished they changed them sooner.

 

[5030]

Tires are cheap. Online sellers right to your door.

Might work for little tractor tires, don't work for the big ones like I have

When you think you need tires you probably do.

Safety is expensive if ignored

If you have a front loader it is hard on tires.

Only if underinflated for the most part.

Worn tires change the front to rear gear ratio on 4x4 tractors. Binding up gears can get really expensive.... on most into the thousands to fix if fixable.

That is called the lead-lag ratio when the tires aren't balanced front to rear, binding occurs in the driveline when running in FWA. On both mine Kubota thoughtfully uses a splined coupler between the output shaft from the transmission and the input pinion shaft on the front differential. Both shafts are hardened, the coupler isn't. When the coupler wears (and you can hear it) time to replace it. I've replaced them more than once. Easy to do. Remove the driveshaft shield, drive out the roll pin, install a new coupler, replace the roll pin, replace the shaft cover. Coupler costs 50 bucks at the dealer and takes about 10 minutes. All FWA Kubota Tractors use the same arrangement. Not sure about other brands.

Your choice. you will find many on here who are very satisfied to run till they drop. Never had a issue. Some on here had the issue and wished they changed them sooner.

 

[Henro]

Well, I have 1800 plus hours on my B2910 with the original R4 tires and still going strong. Now my fronts are foam filled, but still satisfactory tread depth left. AND I never drive on pavement, so that may make a larger difference.

To replace rear tires that still have a lot of live left simply because the fronts need replaced makes little sense to me. But it is not my tractor or my money...

Edit: Someone above said "tires are cheap"! I guess I am cheap also, as last time I saw prices for rear tires, which I do not need, I thought wow! Expensive!

2nd edit: I did not realize there were three pages to this post...replied after the first page...still have to read the following two pages...

 

[Bearsixty7]

Front to rear tire ratio shouldn't even be a concern because you better only be using FWD when you're in low traction conditions anyway so whatever tires need to slip, can.

 

[5030]

Front to rear tire ratio shouldn't even be a concern because you better only be using FWD when you're in low traction conditions anyway so whatever tires need to slip, can.

I've heard both ways but candidly I don't know if lead-lag is important when not in FWA. Again, I very seldom run either of mine in FWA but I'm still replacing the splined coupler every 500 hours or so, so it must put a rotational load on the front driveshaft anyway.

 

[RancherGuy]

I replaced my fronts after about 900 hours(do a bit of road running),the rears are fine.Ordered online had a local shop replace.
Fronts are easy ,rears no so much.

If you are doing road running, then wear is expected, especially the fronts since they are running more psi due to width & weight. If it were me, I would never replace the rears unless they are problems. Unlike road vehicles, age is not an issue because speed, thus safety is not the issue. Cracks or lug chips are no reason except cosmetic to change. Lug wear such as what you had with the fronts is a reason if you want to restore original traction. If there are leaks, add a tube. I once had 30 YO tires at 75% and kept getting splinters that would pierce the carcass due to shredding of small trees. I tired of monthly visits from the mobile tire man, so I replaced those tires, which stopped the flats, so it was money well spent. The tires were good but after that much time they were not as puncture resistant.

 

[5030]

Motto of the story, run 'em until they are bald or puke.

 

[N80]

I do not run on pavement. I use the loader a lot. Mine stays in 4wd. Because it needs to. Lead-lag is generally not a serious issue based on wear for me since with my terrain there is always the ability to slip if needed.

If I do tires I will replace them myself. B-I-L has a large Ag shop just across the pasture and he will help me. I've helped him do his big machines. I've done the fronts on mine myself. They're little.

My rears are loaded. Because they need to be. But, it was done at the dealer. I have no idea what they put in there.

Anyway, the rears on mine look like they will be around $1000 each. Think I'll hold off a while. Might look into a set of those new R-14s when the time comes. Haven't priced them. Sure it will be shocking.

 

[wolc123]

I replaced the fronts on my 1951 Ford 8N at 55 years.
The rears were badly cracked, so were replaced at 45 years.

I have the same tractor with loaded rears and 2000 hours. It is on its second set of fronts, but still has the original rears. I bought it from the widow of the original owner, with 1200 hours. One of the back rims looks like it is ready to go at any time. It is badly rusted, near the valve stem, and quite a bit of the tube is visible in that area.

I am hoping that I can get my spring plowing done with it this year, before that tube blows out. I dont plan on loading the tires again after I replace the rims. This tractor has always been stored inside, so that 70 year old rubber is still in decent shape.

 

[spruce Deere]

I replaced the fronts on the 790 after one thousand hours. Replaced them with the exact brand that came from the factory, titan tire ag tire. I felt the wear and duty from them was astounding. I was not easy on them, besides being on a 4wd steer axle.

Fronts always get scrubbed harder than rears, Especially 4wd axles. I knocked one off the rim once, carried untold loads while turning with the fel, watched the fronts grab traction just as good as the rears sub-soiling and such.

Front tires work HARD on 4wd tractors, harder than the rears all said and told, More so with a fel.

Fairly common around here for operators to go two set of fronts to one set rear, 30hp to 130hp

 

[wolc123]

I replaced the original front Titan R1's on my 2005 JD 4120 at around 800 hours. The sidewalls were cracked and large sections of rubber was flaking off. I bought Carlile replacements, the same size. Those front Titans just looked to be cheap, low quality tires. They were not showing any tread wear, nor were the backs which seem to be much better quality and are still on the tractor.

This tractor had always been stored inside when not on use, so I dont think it could have been UV damage that destroyed my original fronts. Also, I did not do that much heavy loader work with that tractor when they were on it. I am blaming their early demise on shoddy quality.

The Carlile Farm Special ST replacements now have almost the same number of hours on them, and are showing no signs of wear or rot. I have also done literally tons more heavy loader work with those, on a couple big barn demolition and construction projects.

 

[N80]

I do have rust around one of the rear rim valves. I guess that means they put calcium carbonate in the rears at the dealer. I don't know why anyone uses that stuff.

 

[wolc123]

I do have rust around one of the rear rim valves. I guess that means they put calcium carbonate in the rears at the dealer. I don't know why anyone uses that stuff.

It was a cheap way to put weight in the tires, and it adds a great deal of traction force and stability to the tractor. Added stability is better than from rim mounted iron weights because the liquid always flows down to the low side. Corrosion is the downside, and nothing will likely grow in the spot in the field, for a few years, where my tube finally lets go.

I am thankful for 70 plus years from the original calcium filled rims. I will probably use my other tractor for plowing after I put new non-filled rims on the old 8n. That one is about double the hp and weight, 4wd, and also has loaded rears (probably rim-guard). It lacks draft position on the hydraulics though, so maintaining uniform plow depth is trickier with it.

 

[N80]

It was a cheap way to put weight in the tires, and it adds a great deal of traction force and stability to the tractor. Added stability is better than from rim mounted iron weights because the liquid always flows down to the low side. Corrosion is the downside, and nothing will likely grow in the spot in the field, for a few years, where my tube finally lets go.

I am thankful for 70 plus years from the original calcium filled rims. I will probably use my other tractor for plowing after I put new non-filled rims on the old 8n. That one is about double the hp and weight, 4wd, and also has loaded rears (probably rim-guard). It lacks draft position on the hydraulics though, so maintaining uniform plow depth is trickier with it.

I understand why the tires are filled. It is an absolute must for my tractor and what I do. There are just much better options than calcium.

 

[wolc123]

I understand why the tires are filled. It is an absolute must for my tractor and what I do. There are just much better options than calcium.

They didn't have that many options back in the 50's.

 

[N80]

They didn't have that many options back in the 50's.

Agree, but my tractor is a 2005. I'm assuming it was the cheapest option.

 

[oosik]

I had calcium in my first tractor. Didn't make that same mistake with the second. My M6040 has rimguard in the rear tires.

I had to replace the front tires on my first tractor. Not because of wear. Both tires got sidewall slices from the sharp bedrock I have here on the property.

 

[Tx Jim]

I've been custom farming/hay baling since 1987. I've utilized one tractor with very worn/cracked rear tires strictly for pulling a 14 wheel rake for many yrs. The cleats were worn almost smooth/cracked sidewalls & one could almost see the air in the tubes!! I found a set of used 18.4X34 R1 tires with good cleats for $400 installed for the pair or those cracked tires would still be utilized raking hay. My rd hay baler pulling tractor Continental brand rear tires are over 20 yrs old with unknown miles of highway travel shown in photos below.

I replaced the frt tires on my Kubota M7040 MFWD at about 400 hrs just to get tubeless tires to get rid of tubes. This tractor now has 1600 hrs showing on it's speed/hour meter. Mesquite thorns & tire tubes don't get along very well!!!

I personally see no reason to replace ""good rear tires when only frt tires are needed"" on a MFWD tractor.