Tractor Sizing When is big too big? Looking to upgrade 2210 to 2032R...

[mfrancis2210]

I have a very odd pickle. I'm looking to upgrade my 2210 to a 2032R. My wife is even enthusiastic about it so I figure I better jump while the iron's hot. It's been a great tractor - literally trouble free - and there's no real need to upgrade. But why not...

However, I have a nagging worry that the 2032R is "too big", or rather too heavy, for my property. I worry that the increased weight will cause excessive compaction or even rutting of the "civilized territory" around the house. I'm not worried about the rest of the property so much. My 2210 has turf tires and I plan them for the 2032R as well.

Not being a tire engineer, is this a valid concern or do the larger turf tires of the 2032R spread the heavier load out just fine? I live in Oklahoma and our underlying soil in my area is a black nasty clay; old farm land turned into residential acreages. As expected, when very wet in the spring I do get compaction or evidence of a little rutting in some spots. By the middle of the summer, a fully loaded cement truck won't dent the ground.

I mostly mow with the tractor and do general landscaping tasks. The added oomph of the bigger engine would be appreciated for the occasional loader work. I'm just worried that at some point the tractor's weight will cause more cosmetic problems to the main lawn than it's worth having.

Has anyone upgraded their tractor's weight by such a jump (1400 lb. to 1975 lb.) and had issues or not? I know the alternative is for me to lose weight to offset, but I don't think I can lose that much.

 

[oldnslo]

For reference I went from a Kubota BX 1850 that weighed around 1250 lbs to my current Branson 2400H that weighs around 1800 lbs. I have since filled the rear tires which added approx 250 lbs to the 2400H. Both had the FEL frames but don't know how what they add for weight but would suspect 200 - 300 lbs. The BX had what Kubota calls Bar style tires and the 2400H has R1 Ag tires. I do notice more lug marks from the tires when the ground is wet but for normal mowing I have not noticed any significant difference in tracks in my yard. I have frequently ran with full loads of dirt in the bucket across the lawn with no noticeable tracks.

Biggest difference I noticed is maneuverability between these two tractors. The BX being smaller in stature was more maneuverable while mowing.

 

[Gary Fowler]

I don't use my tractor for mowing, but I routinely run my 4000# B26 TLB in and about my yard with no problem with rutting. I wouldn't worry too much about adding 500 extra pounds to a tractor. IF the smaller tractor doesn't do damage the larger one wont either, as you said, it likely has a bit larger tires so the extra weight is distributed and maybe even better than the smaller tractor depending on how much bigger the tires are. My B26 has industrial tires and doesn't rut even in wet yard. I have even run my 8000# 70 HP across a dry yard and only see a bit if lug tire tracks but no ruts. Some folks on TBN are concerned with running a CUT over septic lines but I don't see that as a problem with a properly installed field line. I don't run them over the tank as that would be a bit foolish and perhaps dangerous but the lines are at least 24"deep and no way is that going to damage them.
I think you are way too concerned about the small amount of weight. My ZTR mower weighs 850#. Just stay off the lawn when it is extremely wet, give it a day or so to dry after a flooding rain and it should be ok assuming your yard drains properly.

 

[Utopia Texas]

When you are using a 450 HP tractor to mow the front yard then you have probably crossed the line into "too big". :thumbsup:
Seriously....It depends on your soil type.

 

[mfrancis2210]

Oldnslo - Thanks for the reply. (I love your tagline on AI...)

Your point on maneuverability is well taken. I've thought about that along with the larger mower deck. It's probably going to mean a few more stripes with the push mower in some spots and a little more care around obstacles in the beginning. I use a push mower for outlining and in a few spots where I just can't safely get with the tractor around the house.

 

[mfrancis2210]

...I don't run them over the tank as that would be a bit foolish...

Good point. Hate to sink it right off the bat, although our tanks are buried pretty deep. It's not a traditional septic system.

I just wanted to make sure I'm not overthinking it. Thank you for your thoughts.

 

[mfrancis2210]

When you are using a 450 HP tractor to mow the front yard then you have probably crossed the line into "too big". :thumbsup:
Seriously....It depends on your soil type.

Wow. That must be one big front yard. Don't think the wife would go for an upgrade that big, but a guy can certainly dream....

 

[ovrszd]

I mow with my JD2210 w/62" deck. I mow 3 acres. I'd like to step up to a 72" deck on a tractor similar in size to the 2032. I don't know the exact tire size on that model, but I can't think the footprint would be that much heavier. You are basically adding 500lbs of weight spread over 4 tires, 125lb each if evenly distributed. I run 80lbs of fluid in each rear of my 2210 so I'm almost there already!!!

Go for it. You want it. You deserve it. And it's been thru the budget approval process with a "go" vote (wife). :thumbsup:

 

[/pine]

just curious...with your current tractor...do you ever have traction issues?

If there was one thing I wish my little B-series had it would be more weight...!

 

[ovrszd]

Sorry Pine, not sure if you are talking to me?? If not, please ignore my response.

I don't use an FEL on my 2210. I push snow with it. But I don't have traction issues.

I added fluid to the rears to gain stability on steep slopes. I mow 1/4 mile of hiway road banks.

 

[bigtiller]

Last year I did what you are wanting to do but with different numbers on the side of the hood. I went from a 2305 to a 2720. The turf tires are about 3 feet tall and 14 inches wide making a large ground contact patch. I haven't had a problem with rutting yet. But I did have to trim my trees up a few inches higher to get under them.

 

[mfrancis2210]

Go for it. You want it. You deserve it. And it's been thru the budget approval process with a "go" vote (wife). :thumbsup:

I had to laugh out loud. Yes the chairman is in favor!

One thing you mentioned is what I'm doing as well - stepping up on the mower width to the 62D deck. I'm mowing around 2.5 acres today.

 

[mfrancis2210]

just curious...with your current tractor...do you ever have traction issues?

If there was one thing I wish my little B-series had it would be more weight...!

Yes, I do have traction issues from time to time. I bought a set of R4 tires for the rear just in case. I ballast my FEL with a Frontier box blade. And a heavy operator's seat helps... With the turf tires and this rotten gunky clay, my 2210 struggles on occasion when digging or dragging the box blade.

 

[mfrancis2210]

But I did have to trim my trees up a few inches higher to get under them.

Yet another thing to think about. The 2032R sits a little higher but the dimensions overall aren't a lot bigger. But you made me think I might get a mouthful of pine needles.

I was looking at the 2720. But I stopped when the 1 series came out. I figured something might pop up in the 2000 series before long. I originally thought the 2032R is just a rebadged 2720 with a few minor feature upgrades.

For me the concern is the additional weight. But everyone seems to indicate I may be overthinking that part. Otherwise, the dealer is making it hard to say no.

 

[Dr_Zinj]

Look at what a golf course uses.
They'll use a CUT, usually with turf tires, to pull gang mowers for the fairways. But I've never seen a CUT used on a putting green. Those are always either done with a very light lawn tractor or a push mower.

 

[chevy]

I have a 1026R for mowing & a 2720 for loader & other work. I have a 62d mower for the 2720. I only mowed with it a couple of times. I just did not like mowing our sloping property with it.
The 1026 works a lot faster & feels better on the slopes. I have R4s on the 2720. They will leave marks in wet sod more than the 1026R. Turfs would be much better.

Is your property fairly level? If not, then I would suggest trying out the 2032 on your property before the purchase to check stability & try out the speed ranges. High range on my 2720 is useless on my sloping property & low range is to slow for most things.

The speed ranges are the only things I do not like about the 2720. It is a great tractor that will get a lot of work done.

 

[mfrancis2210]

High range on my 2720 is useless on my sloping property & low range is to slow for most things.

Thanks for the note. Our property is pretty much pancake flat, except for a drainage ditch which I don't mow all of with the 2210 because the slope is too severe in places.

I mow everything in low range because the uncivilized territory away from the proper yard is horribly rough, lots of clumpy field grass. Our neighborhood is old farm land and they pretty much gave it just a lick and a promise with a dozer before platting it out and cutting in streets. It takes a while anyway so the low range isn't a problem really. I watch guys on ZTRs zip around some of the other properties and think they must have a good suspension because I'd not be able to walk after a beating like that.

 

[ovrszd]

I have a 1026R for mowing & a 2720 for loader & other work. I have a 62d mower for the 2720. I only mowed with it a couple of times. I just did not like mowing our sloping property with it.
The 1026 works a lot faster & feels better on the slopes. I have R4s on the 2720. They will leave marks in wet sod more than the 1026R. Turfs would be much better.

Is your property fairly level? If not, then I would suggest trying out the 2032 on your property before the purchase to check stability & try out the speed ranges. High range on my 2720 is useless on my sloping property & low range is to slow for most things.

The speed ranges are the only things I do not like about the 2720. It is a great tractor that will get a lot of work done.

I could probably Google search this question, but I'd rather hear it from an owner/user. What's the physical size difference between the 1026 and the 2720?? Tire size difference?? Track width difference?? Weight difference??

I'm wanting to jump up a size like mfrancis2210. I've not touched a 2720 so don't personally know the size.

 

[bigtiller]

I could probably Google search this question, but I'd rather hear it from an owner/user. What's the physical size difference between the 1026 and the 2720?? Tire size difference?? Track width difference?? Weight difference??

I'm wanting to jump up a size like mfrancis2210. I've not touched a 2720 so don't personally know the size.

According to a brochure I have the 2720 is;
5.5 inches wider at the rear wheels (the widest point)
11.1 inches taller at the ROPS
11.8 inches taller hood height
8.1 inch longer wheel base
6.3 inch longer overall length
523 pounds heaver
than a 2305, and the rear tire height goes from 26 to 36 inches tall, the tread width goes from 12 to 14 inches.

 

[ovrszd]

According to a brochure I have the 2720 is;
5.5 inches wider at the rear wheels (the widest point)
11.1 inches taller at the ROPS
11.8 inches taller hood height
8.1 inch longer wheel base
6.3 inch longer overall length
523 pounds heaver
than a 2305, and the rear tire height goes from 26 to 36 inches tall, the tread width goes from 12 to 14 inches.

Thank you very much, that's exactly the info I was looking for. I mow some steep road banks and am a little concerned about the height gain for no more width gain than there is. Certainly the larger tires will offset the weight difference so not worried about that. My 2210 is very stable. I used to have a Kubota B2910, which I think is similar in size to the 2720. It was very stable as well, had fluid in the rears. Thanks again for the info.