When is it worth the drive?

   / When is it worth the drive? #11  
Kipper wrote <font color="red"> I can't honestly expect the dealer 400+ miles away to deliver then pick up if there are problems. </font>

I'm sorry, why can't you expect that?

I got that from the Ventrac dealer. And I did have one problem with that machine, instead of him driving down he made arrangements for it to be fixed and he took care of everything.

Oh, and when I decided I wanted the blower, he did not personally bring it to me, but he did have it shipped, and his price was the best I found on that unit.


<font color="red"> dealt with the New Holland dealer there who gave him the best trade in price unseen and the best new price on the tc35 and delivered and picked up the 220 something miles to boot </font>

And that is further proof that you can work out good deals with dealers. And as this particular dealer is also in your state must indicate that there is some competition in your market to cause dealers to work for business.


<font color="blue"> Cub is made by Kioti? There is a Cub dealer fairly close. I was going to try and stay with the big 3 + Kioti. </font>

The 8000 series Cub Cadets are Kioti tractors painted white & yellow. Just curious, you are "staying" with the top 3 brands and then skipping down to the brand that is probably #6 (or maybe #7?). What about Mahindra and Massey? My point is don't be color blind. And as Cub is Kioti in the 35, 41, 45 hp units, that further proves that you should look at all brands and price them against each other. You might end up with a Kioti or a Cub/Kioti, or maybe even a JD?
 
   / When is it worth the drive? #12  
</font><font color="blueclass=small">( <font color="red"> Noodlearm, understand one thing when I deal. I WANT IT ALL. I won't pay for delivery, you better build it into the price of the tractor and that price better be competitive. If it is not, that is your fault.


)</font>

I certainly hope than that when you request a quote, you ask how much it would be delivered and give your location, otherwise you are being completely unfair to the dealer. These are not items that can be UPS'ed anywhere for $20. I do agree that his local dealer probably had some move to maneuver though. The quote he received that is from the dealer 440 miles away is the same dealership I bought my CK30 from and I did receive free delivery so he obviously included it in my price, but than again I was only 30 miles away. I guess the whole point is, as long as you make the dealer awhere of what you are expecting (deliver and distance) before you get your quote, I have no problem with that. Otherwise, I can compare it to buying almost anything over the internet $$$$$ + SHIPPING. Again, just my opinion.

Also, apparently I need to learn how to quote things still as I cant figure out how to get my text back to normal. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
   / When is it worth the drive? #13  
I tell them everything. I tell them exactly what I want. I used to buy trucks and cars as part of my job and I got tired of dealing with sales people who would show specs on vehicles that were not what I was looking at. I got tired of bait and switch. I got tired of just about every trick those sales @#%&?* tried to pull. So I lay it all out.

I am more than fair with them because I lay it all out in the open, some of them choose to believe I am telling the truth and some choose to believe I am bluffing, I just don't take crap from them.

They know when I shut my loud mouth that I want delivery and I want free oil changes and I want free pick up & delivery for any repair during the warrenty period regardless of if it is a warrenty item or not. And I am now on a first name basis with the Case/Kubota/Cub dealership owner, with the owner of the Ventrac dealer, and while I have not met the owner of the NH/Branson store, I am on a first name basis with 2 of his sales guys. And we all get along. Because I am honest in what I want. They either decide to give it to me or not, that is their choice. What I will NOT do is go back and change the deal to make it unfair. If I say it is a deal, they all know it is a deal and they will have cash in their hand as quickly as I can get there to drop it off. Heck, the Case/Kubota/Cub dealer delivers stuff and tells me to drop the payment off when I have time. Trust is a big part of these deals. It comes from being honest and fair.
 
   / When is it worth the drive? #14  
Well Bob, than I think that is completely fair. We are on the exact same page. I just couldn't see it as being fair to call a place, get a quote, and then say ok done deal now deliver 1000 miles /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif As long as the dealer knows ahead of time the full expectations than that is fine /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif BTW, any advise on how to quote properly??, and also, thanks for all the post on this board and many others, you really helped me in my buying decision. Also, I hate to see all the flack you get on this board for your opinion on the CK25 vs CK30.
 
   / When is it worth the drive?
  • Thread Starter
#15  
I did tell the dealer that I was 400 miles away. The said they normaly include free shipping but couldn't ship that far.

Can I blame them? No, they get plenty of business were it is cost effective to include free shipping. Why would they make the acception for me?

Also, just got off the phone with Cub:
8404 w/FEL $19,049
8454 w/FEL $19,949
Just by talking with him I liked him. Free delivery and while under warranty.

There is a shack in the sticks about 45 miles from me that sells Century. When I say shack I mean it!

Everything else is 3-4 hours away. The only reason I check 400 miles away was the price noodle got.

Thanks for all the advice.

I'm getting quite the schooling!!
 
   / When is it worth the drive? #16  
<font color="red"> I hate to see all the flack you get on this board for your opinion on the CK25 vs CK30. </font>

I feel the same way about the NH TC21 versus TC24, which are soon to be TC23 and TC26 as they are increasing the HP in both by mid-2005. There is no need for a TC21/23 as long as the TC24/26 exists (but I'm not calling the shots so what the heck do I know). And that will very likely bias me away from the CK20 even more, despite the fact that I really like the CK20. But if I can get the same size package as a CK20 but with 6 more hp, that really translates to much more power at the PTO (at least 25% more!!!) so while the TC24 will power a marginally larger tiller than a CK20, a TC26 will power an EVEN larger tiller than the CK20 or the grossly overweight dinosaur Edsel-like CK25 ( OK maybe I over did it, but you gave me the opening to pop of my loud mouth again! ).

But for those folks who don't need to run tillers, mowers or rotary cutters, the CK20 is still the tractor to beat in the small frame units. It has a fantastic FEL and is a nice compact tractor at a fair price.
 
   / When is it worth the drive? #17  
I agree, with almost any line and manufacturer, the largest HP in any frame was usually not more than 10% increase in cost, sometimes less than 5%. Sure that $1000 difference can buy you an attachment, but over the life of the tractor, why not get the extra power (especially if being financed). Now, that being said, the lower Hp's machines will still do almost everything as the higher HP (assuming same frame).
 
   / When is it worth the drive? #18  
<font color="red"> the lower Hp's machines will still do almost everything as the higher HP (assuming same frame). </font>

I agree with that provided we are talking about some types of tasks. When the PTO is factored into play, the lower HP units look far less productive to me. Many people almost never use a PTO powered implement and to those people there is no reason to pay the extra money for more HP. That is where I think the CK20 excels. It very nicely featured and priced very well, and in the 21hp size machines I think it has the best overall feature/performance ratio for anyone who doesn't need the PTO HP. And in that case, the heavy weight actually becomes an advantage, which is something you don't hear me argue very often. But comparing a CK20 to a B7510 is a no brainer for the folks working in the dirt. Now if you want to mow the lawn, and mowing, cutting, tilling, blowing snow, etc become much larger % of use, but FEL work is still a reasonably important duty then I favor the TC24. It weights just a bit less (if I recall about 300#) but has more oomph (a technical term) to run larger implements. On the other hand, if I was not tilling or blowing snow, but was simply mowing the lawn, then I'd go for a lightweight like the B7610 or deluxe version B2410 (being updated as I write this). And I exclude JD, not because they are not as good, but because the dealer near me is about as friendly as a Massachusetts native is to a good ole boy who moved in next door, so I really haven't had much experience with their small equipment.
 
   / When is it worth the drive? #19  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( And I exclude JD, not because they are not as good, but because the dealer near me is about as friendly as a Massachusetts native is to a good ole boy who moved in next door, so I really haven't had much experience with their small equipment.
)</font>


Sounds like Bob doesn't like the Northeast.

RedDog
 
   / When is it worth the drive? #20  
I am with you, I got a quote today from a dealer a little over a hundred miles away....and his quote was around $3000 dollars less than my local dealer delivered. .......Hard to say support the locals when the difference is that much and when you ask for them to make a better deal they say thats the best we can do.....I am already hooking up the trailer....
 

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