When tractor won't go into certain gears

   / When tractor won't go into certain gears
  • Thread Starter
#31  
Okay, skipmarcy, you've officially flagged me off from trying this!

Couple of questions for you, though, while you're sharing information! In looking at the cross section of the gears and tranny, it makes me wonder if I were having an issue with the low or high gear shift cam if THAT could not be keeping it from engaging in the low range-or if one of the shifters in there could be the issue, rather than the counter shaft. Any experience with this? Seems it'd be a much simpler fix, if that were the issue.

Also, just making sure I got this right: the only way this will get fixed is if I split the tractor? Uhm.... not happening with just me and my auto mechanic brother. Especially for a weekend job!

350, thanks for that tidbit, that'll give me something to do tomorrow!! :)
 
   / When tractor won't go into certain gears #32  
I recently replaced a gear in the transmission of an IH 300. (Some similarities to your tractor) The hydraulic case had to be removed, and the tractor split to replace the gear, and while I was in there I did a little welding and machining on the shift lever and rails,to tighten up the slop, which I think caused the loss of the teeth in the first place. The job took me about 25 hrs start to finish, and with parts the customers bill was just over $2000.00. The tractor is now working well and the customer seems pleased with it. This is just an idea of what you may be looking at.
 
   / When tractor won't go into certain gears #33  
I didn't think of cutting the bolt out but after its out can you replace it with a socket head cap screw?

I still think I would thin (grind) the bolt head that is in the way to get the one you need out and replace it with a new bolt after you find and fix the other problem.

tom
 
   / When tractor won't go into certain gears
  • Thread Starter
#34  
I recently replaced a gear in the transmission of an IH 300. (Some similarities to your tractor) The hydraulic case had to be removed, and the tractor split to replace the gear, and while I was in there I did a little welding and machining on the shift lever and rails,to tighten up the slop, which I think caused the loss of the teeth in the first place. The job took me about 25 hrs start to finish, and with parts the customers bill was just over $2000.00. The tractor is now working well and the customer seems pleased with it. This is just an idea of what you may be looking at.

OY! So that begs the question: at what point is it logically NOT worth fixing the tractor? What would a 485 DI bring these days, assuming I got this fixed and it was back (actually better) like when I bought it? If the tractor is worth, lets say for example, 6K, and I end up spending $2500 or so on it, that doesn't seem to make a lot of sense!
 
   / When tractor won't go into certain gears #35  
My customer spent that on a 1950's vintage International 300 and this tractor is used on a farm and worked every day. He paid $2000.00 for the tractor and $2100.00 to fix it and now thinks he has a very serviceable tractor.
 
   / When tractor won't go into certain gears
  • Thread Starter
#36  
Well, what I keep thinking is that it's not worth much at all if it's not functional in the low range. I know I need to fix it, just hating that my $800 estimate might wind up more than twice that much!!
 
   / When tractor won't go into certain gears #37  
Well, what I keep thinking is that it's not worth much at all if it's not functional in the low range. I know I need to fix it, just hating that my $800 estimate might wind up more than twice that much!!

You'll never know what it is or what it will cost guessing what's wrong - you have to tear into it to know for sure. With tremendous luck it could be a shift fork or something similar that doesn't require a split. As far as what the tractor is worth, right now it's what it's worth to you. Assuming you repair the thing properly it might run for another 20 or 30 years just dandy. If you're not prepared to spend the money once you get it apart though, it will be a big waste, it would be better to sell it now - most people don't like to buy "basket jobs". Sounds like you need to go ahead and tear it down far enough to remove the top trans cover for inspection - if it looks too scary from there slap it back together and get rid of it while it still moves under it's own power.
 
   / When tractor won't go into certain gears
  • Thread Starter
#38  
You'll never know what it is or what it will cost guessing what's wrong - you have to tear into it to know for sure. With tremendous luck it could be a shift fork or something similar that doesn't require a split. As far as what the tractor is worth, right now it's what it's worth to you. Assuming you repair the thing properly it might run for another 20 or 30 years just dandy. If you're not prepared to spend the money once you get it apart though, it will be a big waste, it would be better to sell it now - most people don't like to buy "basket jobs". Sounds like you need to go ahead and tear it down far enough to remove the top trans cover for inspection - if it looks too scary from there slap it back together and get rid of it while it still moves under it's own power.


Well, I don't think I'd want to buy one that was inop, so I won't do that to the next guy. Just going through contortions b/c I'm probably about to sell my larger place and won't be needing it, so the frustration is that it's just more $$ that I won't be seeing again. Such is life, right?

Is it a huge deal to remove and then replace the hydraulic reservoir/lift arms? Things that have to articulate "down in there" that require some secret knowledge to do properly? That way, I could open up the transmission cover on top without splitting the tractor, which would be my major non-starter.
 
   / When tractor won't go into certain gears #39  
No particular magic to removing the cover, just common sense mechanics.
 
   / When tractor won't go into certain gears
  • Thread Starter
#40  
When you say cover, which cover do you mean? The hydraulic reservoir, or the top transmission plate? I honestly believe I could take off the entire %$#@ hydraulics reservoir faster than getting that plate off! I may just be stupid, but based on the length of that 9/16" bolt, either I'd have to cut or weld it off, or I wouldn't get that plate off there without totally disassembling the hydraulics and lift arms. If you have another plan, or knowledge of how to get around it (see pics) please tell me. :confused:
 

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