When using gauge wheels?

[Racer71]

I am adding gauge wheels to my box blade. What do you guys do?

1 Attach the top link like normal.
2 Use a 2 piece top link like the rotary mower.
3 Do not attach the top link at all.

I am smoothing my dirt driveway.

 

[Justaplain]

I use a short piece of chain, then you can pick it up. I carry a 10 foot 3/8 chain on the tractor for those kind of needs. "insane'

 

[greg_g]

I am adding gauge wheels to my box blade.

Training wheels? Why?

//greg//

 

[AndyMA]

Training wheels? Why?

//greg//

I'm also curious, why would you use the wheels?

Andy

 

[2manyrocks]

I don't have any gauge wheels on my box blade. I have considered them, however, with the idea that maybe I could raise one side up to achieve a more uniform crown with. I think the main purpose, however, is just to get a more even grade with a short wheelbase tractor. But I do understand why the question would be asked if gauge wheels are worthwhile on a box blade.

I do have gauge wheels on my dirt blade which I found to nearly uncontrollable without them in comparison to the box blade. They do help in trying to crown, and they do help avoid creating unintended dips with the dirt blade.

Someone else will have to share their actual experience whether adding gauge wheels to a box blade makes a significant improvement.

 

[Racer71]

Having the blade (Box or not) between the wheels will provide a smoother finish. This is why road graders are built the way they are.

Set the blade half way between the rear wheels and gauge wheels (pivot points). When the tractor tires go into a 2 inch deep dip in the drive the blade will only go down 1 inch. A 2 inch rise results in lifting the blade.

Without gauge wheels the blade will go deeper than the 2 inch dip making yet a bigger hole.

I am working with soft sand so I can't rely on "float".

 

[greg_g]

Well, I personally feel that training wheels are the lazy way around actually learning proper use of a boxblade. I've heard the comparison to a road grader before, don't think that's valid either.

Nevertheless, it's your party. If you want pure "float", don't connect the toplink. that way the box will follow the lower lift arms with no influence from a rigid toplink. If you don't want to go to the bother of connecting the toplink when it comes time to lift/carry, invest in a flexible toplink bracket.

//greg//

 

[AndyMA]

I don't use guage wheels on my box blade, grader blade or york rake. I have them for the York Rake but I find I can do just a good job without them. In some cases a better job. Perhaps it's becaause I have 40 plus years experience using York Rakes.

Andy

 

[lhfarm]

Well, I personally feel that training wheels are the lazy way around actually learning proper use of a boxblade. I've heard the comparison to a road grader before, don't think that's valid either.

Nevertheless, it's your party. If you want pure "float", don't connect the toplink. that way the box will follow the lower lift arms with no influence from a rigid toplink. If you don't want to go to the bother of connecting the toplink when it comes time to lift/carry, invest in a flexible toplink bracket.

//greg//

I find gauge wheels make all the difference on my box blade. I expect greg_g is correct. They make up for my lack of experience/learning. But I doubt if I would ever become an expert operator using my box blade and rake (use them there too) once a month at most to groom my drive. I'm happy to leave the training wheels on.

 

[jake98]

this is about geometry, not experience. York rakes work 200% better with the wheels. I don't have a box blade, but the geometry is the same.
jake

got a pic of that willys w/3pt. ?

 

[greg_g]

this is about geometry, not experience. York rakes work 200% better with the wheels. I don't have a box blade, but the geometry is the same.

This is about box blades Jake, not rakes. Especially if you're talking about anything other than three point hitch models.

By putting training wheels on BB, you've essentially made it a one-job implement; surface grading. Anybody can do that just dragging a conventional rear blade. To do the dozens of other jobs that a BB is designed for, would require removing the training wheels. Learning how to use an implement the way the designers intended - that's the trick.

I know the same applies to my landscape rake. About 90% of the time, the gauge wheels are lifted up and out of the way of the real work.

Just outa curiosity, do you actually own a three point hitch model York? or just one of their more numerous single point models?

//greg//

 

[jake98]

Greg,
I've never used a box blade. Aren't they for smoothing out lumps in dirt? I've got a bunch of time on a york rake. Without the wheels they dig in and keep heading down. Mine gets used on a 52 Farmall Cub. Not much power but it works great since I installed the wheels, for smoothing. If you're talking about using it for something else, I'd be curious as to what...
Mine's not a three point, it's the cub's fast hitch, a single point attach that has hydraulic up and down.
Jake

 

[greg_g]

I've never used a box blade. ...Mine's not a three point...

As I thought. I'm not going to ignore your questions on purpose Jake, but this is in fact a boxblade discussion. Nothing stopping you from starting your own though.

The boxblade's versatility is due in part to the three point hitch system. When you add training wheels, you foresake a large chunk of that versatility. I don't want to offend the folks that have the little BBs that tow behind riding mowers or ATVs. They have their place in very light duty/limited maneuvering situations. But when it comes to meaningful work, you go with the three point hitch versions.

//greg//

 

[Racer71]

I'll admit I am a rookie. What I am finding is that having options and the right tool for the job works well. With my design removing the gauge wheels will be easy (four bolts). This allows all the other uses to continue.

 

[3RRL]

Sounds like a good idea to me Stan, I'd go for it.
IMHO, you'll find basic leveling and filling chores much easier to accomplish with gauge wheels attached. Of course, they can be done without the use of gauge wheels too.

I spent the first 350 hours learning to use my boxblade and I got pretty good with it maintaining my 1/2 mile+ dirt road over the last 2-1/2 years. I've since cut thousands of feet of additional roads and trails with it. I use all the features on it including bull dozing in reverse, plowing, stump and rock popping. I've cut super deep gutters with it and smoothed my road over and over again. Did it all without gauge wheels.

Guess what, I just made a set of quick attach gauge wheels for it to see what it was like. See here: Hydraulic QA Gauge Wheels
It's an excellent feature for smoothing and for spreading. I'd guess it would really help beginners a lot. I made mine hydraulic so it folds up out of the way if I don't want to use them. I'd go for it, especially if you're going to make it so you can remove it out of the way for other uses like you say.

 

[Racer71]

Rob,

I had looked at your setup before. Quite impressive. Mine will be simple and cheap.

 

[3RRL]

Yeah, you are right.
There are way simpler methods to do it. Mine is a little overboard, but it was a fun project to design and build myself.
Good luck...

 

[srjones]

The phrase "Training Wheels" is not an acurate description but I don't think Greg is using the phrase to describe the geometry.

I don't know of any rotary cutters aka bush/brush hog that come without a guage wheel and for the record I have a 6' landscape rack and a 5' box and when I added guage wheels, the results improved by 300%

Think of it this way: I'm sure if I practiced enough, I'm could draw a straight line with a pencil. However, it's much easier to use the edge of a ruler.

BTW, the beauty of most gauge wheels, especially the DIY kind is that they can be removed when needed.

-Steve