Where do These Chains on my Bush Hog go?

[Suburban Plowboy]

I have neglected my old King Kutter bush hog, and now I want to hitch it up.

This bush hog has two mysterious chains up by the front. They have bent bars on the ends of them, and the bars have holes for pins or bolts. They don't fit the pins the tractor attaches to. They're too small. I can't find anything else on the tractor or attachment to attach them to.

Anyone know what they are and where they go?

 

[diesel85]

My guess would be check chains for a machine that didn't have a conventional check chain system.

 

[Roadworthy]

I agree with Diesel68, they're probably an add on my the previous owner. My King Kutter doesn't have them. I do adjust sway on the lift arms so the mower can't move very far off center. I do this with the deck partially raised to allow me to easily move it to the extent of its travel both ways.

 

[Suburban Plowboy]

So these things were originally attached to the rear of the Kubota somehow. Thanks. Now I have to figure that out.

 

[Suburban Plowboy]

When I bought the tractor and cutter, the owner had kept them together. He had no ballast box and no quick hitch. I got a Pat's hitch and a ballast box, so I was liberated from the cutter, which was driving me nuts. Before I got the box, the cutter was banging on the ground all the time, and it was in the way.

The tractor had hydraulic leaks, which the seller couldn't figure out how to fix. I got them stopped by tightening a couple of fittings. Is it likely he put the chains on the tractor to keep the cutter from dropping? This isn't a problem for me as far as I know, since I only want to use it for little jobs and then remove it.

 

[old and tired]

Normally, the chains are used instead of the top link. This allows the tractor and mower to not get into binding situations (mow across ditches).

Would mount high on the back of the tractor... Rops or by the top link.

google "mower check chains" then look at images...

 

[Suburban Plowboy]

Thanks. I think that's it.

 

[jeff9366]

So these things were originally attached to the rear of the Kubota somehow. Thanks. Now I have to figure that out.

Is it likely the former owner put the chains on the tractor to keep the cutter from dropping? YES.


Often the check chains are suspended from divers types of fittings attached to the ROPS pivot/fold pin.

The big name brand is ZERCO.

The chains substitute for Three Point Hitch POSITION CONTROL.

MORE:

3-Point Hitch - Kubota B3300SU + Zerco Check Chains + King Kutter Rotary Cutter

The Kubota B3300SU ( 33-hp / 1,800 pounds ) does not have POSITION CONTROL for the 3-Pt. hitch. Instead the B3300SU has 1/4"ing adjustment of the 3-Pt hitch, which is useful in its own way, but is NOT position control. When using a rotary cutter ("Bush Hog") you wish the mower deck to return...

www.tractorbynet.com

 

[Alan W.]

Those are limiter chains. They would mount on the top link pin at the tractor.
They do not replace the top link.
Use to see these in use a lot on the older ford 8 and 9 n’s
They limit how low the implement will go down.

 

[LouNY]

Those are limiter chains. They would mount on the top link pin at the tractor.
They do not replace the top link.
Use to see these in use a lot on the older ford 8 and 9 n’s
They limit how low the implement will go down.

Bingo, you need a longer top link pin on the tractor end. Slide on of the tabs on the pin put the pin in the tractor attaching the top link and then the last tab on the end . Adjust the links so the front of the mower doesn't go too low, or if your tractor has position control toss them in the corner of the shop.

 

[Suburban Plowboy]

Is there a better shaft for these things? The one I have is a royal pain to hook up.

 

[jeff9366]

Is there a better shaft for these things? The one I have is a royal pain to hook up.

I have tried to connect an implement to the tractor PTO for the first time.

I could not get the attachment to slide onto the PTO. I think it is a subtle alignment issue between the female splines of the implement and the male splines of the tractor PTO.


New PTO powered implements, connecting to new tractor PTO splines are always difficult. Once implement and tractor PTO parts are somewhat worn in, mating becomes easier.

Clean mating parts, lubrication and technique are the keys.

Most here like Eureka Fluid Film as PTO lube. I prefer wax chain lube in an aerosol can.

Grease is too thick.

WD-40 burns off. Shaft goes on "OK" cold but can be difficult to disconnect when hot. WD-40 leaves a sticky fish-oil residue which accumulates and holds dust.



Connect the implement to the tractor via two Lower Link pins and one Top Link pin. Lift implement hydraulically until implement PTO shaft and tractor PTO spines are perfectly level, one with the other.

Turn tractor engine off, disengage PTO so tractor PTO splines can be turned by hand.

Turn male splines by hand until they align with female shaft indents. Slide shaft onto tractor splines. Retract whatever type of detent you have, button or collar, then push the implement shaft the final two inches onto the tractor PTO stub.

If the PTO shaft and tractor splines are NOT perfectly level it is almost impossible to shove implement shaft on to tractor PTO splines.

I am 74 years old. I can mount implement and connect the PTO on my heavier tractor without too much difficulty in five minutes


Hi folks...took a bit of time and fussing but wanted to update you. PTO connection problem was resolved by leveling the implement to the PTO.

Last edited: Apr 23, 2022

 

[Suburban Plowboy]

This one has some kind of metal ring I had to pry out before I could slide the sleeve back and expose the coupling. Maybe I did something wrong. I pried it out two or three years back when I last used the bush hog. I remember researching it on the web. It's hard to believe you have to take a screwdriver and pry that ring out every time the implement is attached or removed.

Squirrels have been at the plastic stuff at the forward end of the shaft, so I was thinking rather than try to find the parts and replace it, I could just get a shaft that was easier to deal with.

 

[jeff9366]

Squirrels have been at the plastic stuff at the forward end of the shaft, so I was thinking rather than try to find the parts and replace it, I could just get a shaft that was easier to deal with.

No such luck. PTO shafts are universally difficult to connect and universally greasy.

Buy a can of aerosol wax chain lube.

Clean all the goop off the PTO shaft and tractor PTO splines to reduce mounting friction. You may need Blaster solvent and a 24 hour soak, followed by wire brushing, than a rag to remove all residue.

Wax lube sparingly.

Learn the proper mounting and connecting procedures.

 

[jeff9366]

This one has some kind of metal ring I had to pry out before I could slide the sleeve back and expose the coupling. Maybe I did something wrong. I pried it out two or three years back when I last used the bush hog. I remember researching it on the web. It's hard to believe you have to take a screwdriver and pry that ring out every time the implement is attached or removed.

This is the detent which make sure your PTO shaft remains attached to the tractor PTO splines. If the bits attached to the detent, usually ball bearings, are CLEAN and LUBRICATED detent should move by hand.

VIDEO:

 

[Xfaxman]

Check Chains:

 

[Suburban Plowboy]

VIDEO:

The ring I'm talking about is in the plastic stuff that covers the shaft. It's about 3/16" in cross section. No lube anywhere near it. I can't remember why I thought I had to pry it out, but I think it came from information I found on the web. I can upload a photo later.

Here's something important. Today, Youtube put something great in my feed: a video that showed that my bush hog is assembled incorrectly. Apparently, a huge percentage of them are put together wrong by ignorant owners and store employees. Sometimes you actually have to read the manual.

There is a U-shaped part that attaches to the top link. As you can see in my photo, this part is held in place rigidly on my attachment. Whoever assembled the cutter ran two bolts through it. This is wrong.

The U-shaped part is supposed to swing. It allows the bush hog to lift when the tractor hits a low place or the bush hog hits an obstacle. Yesterday I kept digging trenches with the rear wheel of the attachment because this part was not free to move.

If the part is in there wrong, the bush hog will dig into the ground, and the long support bars on top will bend, as mine have. It can cause the rear wheel to be torn off.

I'm going to remove it and put it back the way it should be. I don't think there will be any need for chains once the cutter is assembled the correct way.

It would be hard to use chains on my tractor because the shield that covers the PTO shaft is in the way. Not sure how the previous owner did it. The shield is missing some paint, so maybe he just bubba'd his way through.

The previous owner had this tractor for 14 years and never learned how to use the bush hog correctly. Amazing.

King Kutter still sells this bush hog, and it doesn't come with chains.

I'm also going to drill a few 1/2" holes in the deck, as King Kutter should have, to prevent rainwater from pooling on it.

 

[WranglerX]

Appears to be check chains to limit how far down cutter is allowed to drop.... I have check chains on my ballast box so I don't have to continually adjust the ballast up as it tends to drop on it own over time.....

 

[Mtsoxfan]

As far as having to pry the collar, it most likely is rusted. Look inside and you'll see 3 ball bearings that should move freely. WD-40 or catalyst of your choice will free it up.

 

[Suburban Plowboy]

It's a thin stainless ring which is part of the plastic sleeve mess.