Where Do You Look First or Most For Tractors and Attachments?

[Larry The Tractor Guy]

Larry,

Thanks for the response. My heart just sank when you told me about the loader warranty. The tractor was a yr old last October and I put it off all summer even though the cylinders are leaking off bad......Now the issue is.......where do i go to get the cylinders fixed and approximately how much cost??? I'm sure I won't go to the dealer if i'm going to have to pay my hard earned money. Maybe a dealer is the only place i can find to work on it. Do you have a clue how much brand new ones would cost??? Maybe that'd get it done and over with. Hummm, not even sure it's not a valve leaking off somewhere.

Larry, where are you located anyway???

CJ4,
Hello again. Sorry to shock you with the warranty information but I felt I better at least mention it. So you mean to tell me that while you were signing the contract at the dealership, they didnt go over the warranty with you and all its provisions? I guess they really didnt take of you too well after all!

As far as the cylinder repair goes, you can get the lift cylinder packing kit and seals for around $46 a side. The complete cylinder including barrel, rod, ends etc that would be a complete swapout would be.....$321 per side...yikes!

If they repaired it once and it still leaked, you should be entitled to a dealer warranty for the repair for some period of time..matbe 90 days or something like that. Depends on the dealer. If you go to this link, Construction, Agriculture and Consumer Equipment: Niagara Frontier Equipment Sales, Inc. and look in the middle of the page, you can click on Agricultural Parts and type in your loader model 18LA and look at exploded view diagrams of your tractor and parts. This is adirect link from our dealer website and a service offered by NH to help buyers locate what they need. Save the link for future use.

Since you had such bad luck with your local dealer, if you determine what you need for parts, you can send an email request directly from that site and it will go to my Parts Manager for a quote. I will give you 10% off if you want to order the parts from us and we will ship them right to you. We are located in Western New York but as anyone can attest here, it doesnt matter much anymore where you are located because the web has opened the world up for business! May the best dealer win!

Hope this all helps and makes you feel a little better about the whole situation.

Let me know if I can help you further.

Thanks,
Larry

 

[FULLPULL]

Larry thats a impressive web site . I had a ? about the 270tl vs the 18 la which one is the better loader ? And where can i get a close price on a fops canopy for a ttc55da?

 

[Larry The Tractor Guy]

Larry thats a impressive web site . I had a ? about the 270tl vs the 18 la which one is the better loader ? And where can i get a close price on a fops canopy for a ttc55da?

Fullpull,
The 270TL and 18LA are pretty much the same in lift capacity and style. The 270TL replaced the 18LA and is what is available now.

Some things they updated on the 270TL are a bigger torque tube, relocation of the loader lines behind the tube, the new easy attach system allows you to aproach the loader from any angle and still re-connect it to the tractor, the new pin latch system accounts for not being totally sqaured up with the pin hole and still allows you to latch it.

Overall the syling is still the same but the new loader is stronger and easier to take on and off.

A steel canopy for your TC55DA will run you about $620 plus shipping. Its part #718857046 and can be ordered from any NH dealer and dropped shipped to you with pre-payment on NH plan or credit card. You could also get a fiberglass canopy for much less but I dont recommend it if you have a loader as it will not offer protection against falling debris from the loader.
The canopy is pretty easy to install but I would recommend a chain fall and 2 people if possible to keep it under control while mounting it.

It you want to order one from me I will give you 10% off! Just use the website link below to contact me directly.

Thanks,
Larry

 

[CJ4]

Larry,

Thanks again for the reply and the info. The link looks very valuable to have. Wonder how difficult it is to seal those cylinders? Never done it before. I wonder why it didn't hold the first time the dealer did it??? Unless he didn't completely do it......

 

[Larry The Tractor Guy]

Larry,

Thanks again for the reply and the info. The link looks very valuable to have. Wonder how difficult it is to seal those cylinders? Never done it before. I wonder why it didn't hold the first time the dealer did it??? Unless he didn't completely do it......

CJ4,
Your welcome....there is a "year break" on the cylinders of your loader so it will have one of 2 possible configurations. Either a spanner wrench end or flats. The parts lookup link I gave you should specify which if you typed in your year of loader. The repair is not too difficult. You basically remove the hydro lines and pins from the cylinder (after blocking the loader up!) and put the cylinder on the bench. You will need to hold the barrel end captive in a vise. Now depending on the type barrel end connection, you will need a spanner wrench or a wrench large enough to cover the flats to unscrew the barrell end packing. Once the retaining nut is loose, you simply pull the rod out of the cylinder, should come pretty easy but if it is tight or fluid is trapped in front of the rod, you may need to coax it out with a come-a-long.
You will then see all the parts of the packing and seal kit on the end of the rod. Disassemble those parts, clean it good, and reassemble the end. Put the rod back in the barrel, tighten the nut and mount it back on the loader. Start and run the hydrualics slowly up and down a little until all the air is out of the cylinder..caution, the loader could "drop suddenly" if there is excessive air in the system so stay clear. Thats about all there is to it. It should take about 1 to 2 hours per side if your proceeding carefully.

You also have the option of getting the parts, removing the cylinders, and taking them to your local hydraulic shop for repair. They dont care what make or model it is, they just know hydraulics and would be happy to help you out I'm sure.

As far as why it didnt hold the first time? who knows...maybe they only replaced the seal at the end but the packing or orings were cut or ripped further insdie the barrel. Another possiblity is that your cylinder barrels could be "balloned out" causing fluid to flow past the seals internally. This is rare but it can happen if the barrel was manufactured wrong or if the pressure had got too high at some point and expanded the barrel. If you have a steel straight edge, you can lay it along the barrel to see if it is bent or bowed out.
If it is, then replacing the seals and packing will not fix the problem and new barrels will be needed. That could be covered under warranty if it was demonstrated that they were like that right from the start, but that could be tough to prove at this point.

Hope this helps a little.

Regards,
Larry

 

[jinman]

Larry,

Thanks again for the reply and the info. The link looks very valuable to have. Wonder how difficult it is to seal those cylinders? Never done it before. I wonder why it didn't hold the first time the dealer did it??? Unless he didn't completely do it......

CJ4, in your case and having a bad experience with both dealerships, I think I would look for a hydraulics specialty repair shop and take the cylinders to them. You can look in the yellow pages for one or ask at the local NAPA parts store if they have a recommendation. It could be that a simple rebuild will fix the leaking. They may or may not suggest using the OEM rebuild kit. It may cost a little bit, but you will most likely not have to worry about it it again for a very, very long time. At least that is my experience. These folks are in business due to their specialty and reputation. Most of them do great work.

 

[IMCA38]

Larry
I think it's great that you're out here asking questions. Unfortunately, I think our group may not have the feedback you're looking for. After all, I think most everyone here knows about New Holland and can probably give some sort of opinion. If we are looking to buy, half of the work (brand awareness, either good or bad) is already done. If I were in your shoes, I'd be looking to get the NH name out to all of the "tractor virgins" if you will. You mention the high price of ads, particularly TV, radio and print media. As you know, there are multiple facets that add up to the total cost, including production costs and the actual advertising time or space. Then you have the dilemma of picking your outlet. If you pick one TV station, your ad will never be seen by people who don't tune in to that station. Then you have the choice of what time slot(s) to run your ad. What hour are most of these people watching? Anyway enough of that.....
I was curious if you had ever given consideration to using motorsports as a marketing tool. It looks like there are about 70-odd racing venues in New York and a bunch more down in Pennsylvania. For a total cost comparable to a couple of good sized print ads, you can get exposure from early spring into fall. Actually, if you consider off-season car shows, etc. you can make it virtually year-round. There is a high degree of loyalty, and you can leverage your involvement into other arenas. Having been involved in motorsports for a number of years, I'd be happy to share all kinds of ideas with you.

 

[CJ4]

Larry and Jinman,

Thanks to you both for your suggestions and comments. If I get "curious" enough and in the mood I might just try rebuilding those cylinders myself. If it likes alot of my "do it myself" projects it'll probably cost me twice as much and take 10 times longer but experience is worth something huh????

Larry, thanks for the detailed explanation. I just love it when someone explains a repair that's mysterious to me and it comes out making some sense.

 

[Larry The Tractor Guy]

Larry and Jinman,
Larry, thanks for the detailed explanation. I just love it when someone explains a repair that's mysterious to me and it comes out making some sense.

CJ4,
No problem, glad to help. Did you use the parts lookup link I listed in the last post to see an exploded view of the cylinders? That should have helped take some of the mystery out of what's in the cylinder.

Thanks,
Larry

 

[dqdave1]

Ship them to Larry via UPS; have Larry rebuild them; then tell us of your experience with Larry!