Where to get a Loader for a TN75

[DirtyDusty]

I have a problem. I just bought a used Tn75a It has the midmount valves and joystick already on it, and before I bought it I called one of the local NH dealers to get a price on the loader for it. He told me $4700 for Bush Hog loader that would be stronger than the factory loader. When I drove 1600 miles round trip and got back he said that it ended up being $5175.00 and that it was three weeks out and if I wanted a midmount instead of a front push that it would be even higher. After he told me the model no. it was, I looked it up and he was comparing breakout at pivot pins against the factorys weight measured at 31.5. So I told him I was going to check at other dealers and he said that was fine. When I started calling around they seemed to know of the situation and where all quoting me prices of $6700 and up for a factory loader. Are these prices even close? Anyone know where I can get a loader at in North Louisiana? I would be willing to drive a little ways just to get away from these people.

 

[LoneCowboy]

sounds about right to me.
I paid 6000 dollars for my NH loader in spring of 07 when I bought my TN75.

 

[TractorChick]

$6500 to $8000 for a loader on a tractor that size isn't out of line.

Depends whether you need mechanical self-leveling, quick attach bucket / manure fork / pallet forks.

Good luck!

 

[Doc_Bob]

He told me $4700 for Bush Hog loader that would be stronger than the factory loader. .

What is meant by "stronger"?
Bob

 

[DirtyDusty]

What is meant by "stronger"?
Bob

By stronger he means that the lifting capacity was higher and the mounting system was a front push mount which he says eliminates the bolts shearing off in the tranny housing due to pushing something with the loader. He went on to explain that the factory mid mount loaders where a problem because the mounting system was too weak to handle the tractor's power and that the bolt holes would wallow out and break off. He says that they have them come in all the time like that.

I found a factory loader at another store, it is the new 810 instead of the 32la that is no longer made. I noticed in the NH literature that they also have the 820 available for the TN70 and TN 75. They quoted me a price of $5700 for the 810 with a quick-attach bucket non self level. They have the 810 instock and would have to order a 820 which would bring the price up considerably.

 

[LoneCowboy]

He could be right on the mounts and not just talking stuff to you.
I have the NH loader on my TN75 and I've sheared bolts off already. (big freaking expensive bolts).

 

[mojoinco]

My TN55 has one mounting bolt that is apparently SAE and the other 3 are original metric. I removed mine (quick attach/33LA) and found that at least a couple of them were loose.

Loose would also allow them to be sheared off (I bought mine in the spring with ~600 hours, so I can't speak for what happened in the past). Just my free information (and worth about that). I will be checking mine occasionally for that reason.

 

[Doc_Bob]

By stronger he means that the lifting capacity was higher and the mounting system was a front push mount which he says eliminates the bolts shearing off in the tranny housing due to pushing something with the loader.

Thanks for the reply, now I understand.
Bob

 

[AndyMA]

My TN55 has one mounting bolt that is apparently SAE and the other 3 are original metric. I removed mine (quick attach/33LA) and found that at least a couple of them were loose.

Loose would also allow them to be sheared off (I bought mine in the spring with ~600 hours, so I can't speak for what happened in the past). Just my free information (and worth about that). I will be checking mine occasionally for that reason.

I would agree that bolts usually shear when they get loose. Loader mounting bolts tend to loosen, although not if they are torqued properly ( locktite also helps). My TN75 bolts are still tite after 5 plus years/
Andy

 

[mojoinco]

Seeing as how the topic was fresh on my mind, I checked mine again today. I had been using my loader to level off a home made sort of arena (large figure 8 really) and I now have one sheared off bolt (M20 something thread pitch). The bolt that had been replaced is a 7/8" with mostly wallowed out threads (these are the two forward bolts). It wasn't too bad getting the lift arm mount off, but the upper one inside the cab is (I think) a coarse 5/8". The M20 is the same pitch (happens occasionally) but is a slightly larger diameter (~0.675 IIRC).

Got it drilled out to 1/2", and attempted using a left hand spiral easy out. Now scratching my head (I really don't want to break tha toff in there). Blasted it with Kroil and leaving it overnight. Looking at the price of taps $50-60. That will also entail drill bits and drilling out the lift arm bracket.

The bracket has a crack in it (not spread, just cracked). Will have to determine the best method of fix: mig or arc welding.

May end up taking it to be tapped out (though if I do it myself I will then have the tap and bits). Will have to confirm the max size my drill dr will take.....joy!

 

[slowzuki]

I've not seen any local TN's with problems but they all are fitted with the ALO loaders here, have been as long as TN's have been out. I think the new NH loader is an ALO, not sure though.

 

[mojoinco]

Well, I finally got my loader mounts fixed. Paid a welder to repair the wallowed out bolts (only the left side had an issue) that mount to the front casting (that the axle attaches to). He welded a grade 5 coupling nut into the lower hole (after hollowing it out more). I think I had it tapped out to a fine thread pitch 7/8 or 1 inch diameter hole (sorry, can't remember now). Anyhow, he re-tapped the upper hole to a coarse pitch thread and thought it would be good. I got the nuts and bolts at MSC (msc-direct.com). Great service, ok price. Delivery was $15 to my door on Monday, ordered on Friday at 5 pm.

Next I welded extensions forward to mounting pads located roughly under the radiator. I couldn't go straight forward due to the front wheel angle (caused by the articulation of the Supersteer).

Attached are pictures of the raw stock (1/2" x 5" bar stock), and a blank I made out of scrap wood. I ended up not following the bevel in the wood to increase the welded surface area. The other pics are various angles of the finished project. The loader mount is made of a combination of 1/2 inch and 1 inch material. I wanted to make the mount extensions out of 1 inch stock, but decided that 1/2 inch should be enough load sharing (besides, should I take the whole load up front, or should this be sharing the load?!). I didn't spend a lot of time purtying up the welds as I felt that some of the ugly was supportive. Used Offic-ial NH gray paint. Which doesn't match the original very well (nor did it on my wife's 1 year old LS125 minsteer).

Unless the repair fails, I am pretty happy with how it worked out. I did most of the work by myself (that #$%^%$!! mount is heavy), though at the final fitting (now the mount had two more bolts and had the extension on it) I had a buddy help me. I used a long arm floor jack to hold the mount up. I also had to weld a crack in the left mount in an area hidden by the cab (it was easy). The front casting is made of cast steel versus cast iron. The welder tried to show me how the sparks for one are orange, while the other was yellow. I couldn't see it.

I torqued the bolts to 325 or 350 pounds/foot. I think that the rating was for higher, but I didn't want to strip out the repaired bolt holes (yes, l am leary). That took two of us (not enough lead in my a**).

The only real concern I had along the way was when I jacked the cab up a bit to get to the bolts on the transmission.

So, keep those bolts torqued! Much easier that way!

 

[Simpkins85]

I have a 2003 Tn 75 with 647 hours on it and it has a bush hog m346 loader with bucket and round bale spear qiuck detach and I have not had any problems with the loader it has been on the tractor since it was new I think the loader was around $4900 I live in WV though don't know about price difference where you are from hope this helps a little bit

 

[Tommyboy]

Just a little tid bit of info on broken loader bolts. Not a fun problem. I have been in the loader business for 27 years "Time Flies When Your Having Fun"
Always keep your bolts and never use loctite. Try to take hardened bolts out of a casting after you have used loctite.
The best solution is to remove the paint between the parts being fastened together. Use Grade 8 bolts. Use Heavy Flatwashers only over slotted holes. Use a good quality "Crush" Washer or spring type Lockwasher. Torque The Bolt. I extreme cases Use "NORDLOCK" Lockwashers. Very expensive but very affective.

If Dirty Dusty is still looking for a loader visit the marketplace section of my website Stoll Loaders Built For Farmers Worldwide High-Tech Tractors