Which FEL for TC33D??

CBox · Feb 2, 2007

Dafixer,
I got to your thread a little late, but I think you have finally figured things out. Jinman is exactly right, New Holland / Case IH do not recommend the curved boom loaders for your year/model of tractor. When I purchase my tractor in 2004, Case IH had just came out with the new "Farmall" designation. One dealer I was working with had a brand new 2003 DX29 still on his lot. I was dealing with him on this tractor and the (new at the time) curved boom loader. Before the deal was made, the dealer did some checking and CASE IH said this would void the warranty on the tractor. I thought this was HOG WASH and thought they just wanted to me buy the new "Farmall" machine so they could charge me more. After much discussion with the dealer, I received an e-mail from CASE IH stating that the front axel diameter on the Farmall machines had been increased to accept the greater lifting capacity and longer reach of the curved boom loaders. So, needless to say, I did not end up with the curved boom loader. It was a money decision for me too. At the time I purchased my tractor, my wife and I were in the process of building a new house.

I ended up purchasing a 2002 DX33 (125 hrs.) with the L130 (NH 7308) loader and I have been very pleased. I will make one note. If the dealer is going to sell you the QA front end system for $450, you should jump on this. I purchased (I believe Jinman did the same) an aftermarket system from Kasco as part of the deal when I bought the tractor. I forget the breakdown, but the QA mount, a conversion plate for my bucket and a set of 2200# 42" forks totalled an extra $1500 in 2004. If your price includes everything you need, less the forks, I would call it a good deal.

As other members have said, the QA system / pallet forks are invaluable!! The L130 (7308) loader is VERY EASY to take on and off too. I take it off every time my wife wants to mow.

My choice would be the factory loader.

Sorry I am a little long winded, but I hope this info help.

CBox

Turbys_1700 · Feb 2, 2007

Your dealer evidently has an 1846QT in stock that he wants to move. The 2246QT is the Bush Hog you need to compare to the 7308. It has 97" of lift with higher lift capacities than the 7308. Go to bushhog.com and look at the specs.
Another thing to keep in mind about the skid steer adaptor is that this adds weight to your loader which effectively reduces the amount that you can lift with your bucket. I've got a feeling that is why Bush Hog does not offer this option.
You may want to check out the 1009 series from Woods if you want a skid steer adaptor with higher lift capacities. It specs out very similiar to the bush hog.

Dafixer · Feb 3, 2007

Well I went ahead with the 7308. I liked the fact that the hydraulic controls were integral with the tractor and very clean. I also liked the idea of keeping the tractor all NH. The salesman knocked a hundred bucks off the price of the loader. They are short a mounting bracket so it will be a week before I can pick her up! It feels just like the week before Christmas!

caddison · Feb 3, 2007

I traded my NH 1325 for a DX33. My 1325 had the 7308 loader. The DX33 has the new L114 curved arm loader. The one thing I wished I would have done different was to get the 7308 equivalent on the DX33. I miss the ease in which the loader went off and on. The curved arm loader is a much bigger pain in the butt when trying to put back on. Everything must be just right in order to get it back on and get the pins lined up. I do like the quick attach plate though. I leave the loader on most of the time and just drop the bucket.

Sparticus · Feb 6, 2007

Do not forget some rear weight to ballance out the load on that tractor. Possibly loaded tires;wheel weights;ballest box;or heavyrear implement when loader in use. Otherwise can be a wild ride.

Dafixer · Feb 10, 2007

It's here! Corriher has made my day! Not only were they the cheapest they also delivered!
Tractor showed up yesterday and today I started doing a 300hr service. The bought all new filters but didn't buy enough hydraulic fluid to replace it all. I bought the stuff to do a 300hr, but the parts guy said people normally did not replace all the hydraulic fluid.
When I started my service, I spun the hydraulic filter off and noticed that the fluid was slightly milky looking. I think that after seeing that I would be better off replacing it all, just for piece of mind.
I guess my question is NH hydraulic fluid the stuff to use or is there a cheaper, just as good, alternative. I don't have my manual open but I know there is a VOLUME of oil that needs to be changed.

Turbys_1700 · Feb 11, 2007

Dafixer said:
It's here! Corriher has made my day! Not only were they the cheapest they also delivered!
Tractor showed up yesterday and today I started doing a 300hr service. The bought all new filters but didn't buy enough hydraulic fluid to replace it all. I bought the stuff to do a 300hr, but the parts guy said people normally did not replace all the hydraulic fluid.
When I started my service, I spun the hydraulic filter off and noticed that the fluid was slightly milky looking. I think that after seeing that I would be better off replacing it all, just for piece of mind.
I guess my question is NH hydraulic fluid the stuff to use or is there a cheaper, just as good, alternative. I don't have my manual open but I know there is a VOLUME of oil that needs to be changed.

Any hydraulic fluid designated NH134 is fine. You can get it at most auto parts stores or tractor supply company. I buy my oils from my local Advance auto parts dealer as they have an oil recycle station so that I can take my old oil there. I just did the 300 hours service on my 1720. Took around 28 quarts. The cost was around $32.00 per 5 gal bucket.