DK35vince
Super Member
I recommend a 72" mower.
Your tractor can easily handle a 72" RFM. It would be slightly wider than your tractor making trimming easier.
Mowing Which finish mower implement for JD 3120??
- Thread starter poe400
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- john deere 3120
Your tractor can easily handle a 72" RFM. It would be slightly wider than your tractor making trimming easier.
I have a Frontier 1072 rear discharge and it is a great piece of equipment. My Dad bought it at a sale practically new, not many hours. Had the hog mentality that it would leave clumps everywhere. Not the case at all, love it. And the 790 pulls it like a dream. Thought about a mid mount but it would cost to much. Might as well invest in a newer zero turn. Only downside is the old 790 is rough and keeps knocking the ice cubes out of my glass!!!
WH401
Platinum Member
I have the zero turn Cub Cadet because I bought it new for $1300.00 and could not turn it down.I have a lot of straight runs with just a few trees but I do have to trim right up close to the pond if that presents a problem
Ah I see, well that makes sense then.
. If you've got mostly straight runs than you'll be fine with an RFM. Of the 7 acres of my total 11 that I cut, it's all mostly open field. Except for some very slight trimming, which I do quickly with a push mower and trimmer.How is the surface of your land? is it flat? or does it have a lot of dips? A 60" mower is a good "compromise" size, (particular if your land has a lot of dips and bumps), because it gives you a wide swath for a cut, while still being able to articulate fairly well over dips and deviations to give you an even cut. If you have pretty flat land with no real uneven-ness, than I would look into a 72" mower, you should be able to power one without a problem. I have mostly level, flat ground, and the 72' Woods mower I have leaves a very nice, even cut.
I wouldn't worry about getting the mulch kit. The problem with mulch kit's are that for them to work effectively you can only take so much height off of the grass during a cut, (and by that I mean a minimum amount), and you'll have to drive slower. The mower on it's own should mulch the clippings up pretty well without a problem, unless you really let the grass get out of hand.
As far as brands, I like Woods. I've personal had many very good years of experience with them, and because of that they're my "go to" brand. The PRD7200 RFM I've got is a heavily built mower (about 700 lbs total) that can take a lot of abuse, it creates an incredible amount of suction with high lift blades, and it leaves a fantastic cut. But, the con about Woods products is they tend to cost higher than other manufacturers. If your on a tighter budget I would look at a Landpride or Bushhog brand RFM. I know lots of people on here have had great experience with them.
Barely Smokin'
Silver Member
I've been pretty pleased with my Frontier 3PH mower. No problems with gear box or other major bits. I mow about 2 acres with it, mostly field next to a river.
It's a little beat up, primarily because I occassionally use it like a bush hog...backing it into "unknown" areas and grinding into a stump, etc.
I have to remove the blades ~ every 4 mows and sharpen them. You probably want to invest in a decent 3/4" socket set and large open end wrenches (if you haven't already). That'll make changing blades a lot easier.
My local JD dealer had to order the blades. It was a total fiasco, but that's mainly because my local JD dealer is incompetent. That said, it was hard to find replacement blades for the Frontier and they were pricey....
'nother thing....the four height adjustment wheels are "secured" to the mower with a simple clevis pin set-up through a vertical post. I've had two of those pins shear off...which means the wheel and the spacers used to adjust the height of the mower fall off while you're mowing. Of course, you wouldn't notice it right away, so it can be a real PITA to find the wheel and the little spacers somewhere out in the big field you're mowing when you notice they're gone. Now, I realize it's a pin failure only but still, Frontier chooses to use them as a stock piece and integrates them into a design that---when it fails---sucks. I've since upgraded to grade 5 bolts, no problems.
Lastly, check the blade RPMs or what they call "tip speed" or something like that. I'm no expert, but the idea is---the faster the tip speed (a function of PTO gearing, mower gearing and blade length), the better it cuts grass, assuming you have the HP to spin the mower. Again, just a FYI, and you may want to search the attachments forum for more detail. I've often thought the Frontier could do a better job mowing, and mebbe the tip speed has something to do with it. Good luck!
It's a little beat up, primarily because I occassionally use it like a bush hog...backing it into "unknown" areas and grinding into a stump, etc.
I have to remove the blades ~ every 4 mows and sharpen them. You probably want to invest in a decent 3/4" socket set and large open end wrenches (if you haven't already). That'll make changing blades a lot easier.
My local JD dealer had to order the blades. It was a total fiasco, but that's mainly because my local JD dealer is incompetent. That said, it was hard to find replacement blades for the Frontier and they were pricey....
'nother thing....the four height adjustment wheels are "secured" to the mower with a simple clevis pin set-up through a vertical post. I've had two of those pins shear off...which means the wheel and the spacers used to adjust the height of the mower fall off while you're mowing. Of course, you wouldn't notice it right away, so it can be a real PITA to find the wheel and the little spacers somewhere out in the big field you're mowing when you notice they're gone. Now, I realize it's a pin failure only but still, Frontier chooses to use them as a stock piece and integrates them into a design that---when it fails---sucks. I've since upgraded to grade 5 bolts, no problems.
Lastly, check the blade RPMs or what they call "tip speed" or something like that. I'm no expert, but the idea is---the faster the tip speed (a function of PTO gearing, mower gearing and blade length), the better it cuts grass, assuming you have the HP to spin the mower. Again, just a FYI, and you may want to search the attachments forum for more detail. I've often thought the Frontier could do a better job mowing, and mebbe the tip speed has something to do with it. Good luck!
C
careyo63
Guest
Yeah I do Have problem how could I forget thinking about it now. And have to agree with you on the blades and a local JD dealer also. I cut over 5 acres so I decided to buy a backup set to keep sharp. I just back in and lift it up,throw the stands under it and hit with the impact wrench done 10 min. tops. I went to change at leaf season and the new ones. They are worn slap out PMO talking about cheap wait, no they wasn't price wise either. They are not worth the garbage can in 1yr.!! I still have the original ones that came on it and it's a 02 model and are still in good shape. I think I may have found another Dist. who I get my tractor parts from and is starting to sell implements and blades. I'm sure I will give thiers a try can't get much worse. Sorry about the vent.
Carey
PMO talking about cheap wait, no they wasn't price wise either. They are not worth the garbage can in 1yr.!! I still have the original ones that came on it and it's a 02 model and are still in good shape. I think I may have found another Dist. who I get my tractor parts from and is starting to sell implements and blades. I'm sure I will give thiers a try can't get much worse. Sorry about the vent.Carey
orlo
Platinum Member
Frontier has many of their units made by Woods. Woods makes a nice machine (as does Frontier. I run an 84" Frontier RFM made by woods. In fact I couldn't order my mulch kit through Deere, I had to order it from Woods (Weird).
I'd get the pneumatic tires and look for a high blade tip speed (above 16K is nice, mine is 17,900. It's probably 'acceptable' down to about 15K. Some of the larger ones have flail type blades (90"+) which let you cut rough stuff but won't give you as good a cut quality.
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I'd get the pneumatic tires and look for a high blade tip speed (above 16K is nice, mine is 17,900. It's probably 'acceptable' down to about 15K. Some of the larger ones have flail type blades (90"+) which let you cut rough stuff but won't give you as good a cut quality.
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