Which fitting should I dislodge first? (Dirty Hands WS)

[charlessenf]

OK, the reason Dirty Hands Brand is no longer literally 'popped up' this morning when the entire weld (24 =/- inches) let go all at once. Based upon the condition of the parts the weld was never done properly and there was no evidence of PENETRATION along the length of the break!

So, I have to dismantle this thing to convey the six-foot beam part to the welding shop and I can't begin to lift the cylinder much less the beam. I have no winch, chain hoist, etc. just my B7800 Kubota with a BOOM (let's hope not) POLE and FEL.

However that's not what I need to know. I may have no choice but to disconnect the cylinder from the two hydraulic hoses attached to the Control Valve body. See pictures. Which part do I try to UNSCREW (for lack of a better term)? A or B

Then, what to expect in terms of fluid discharge? Torrent, flood, a little, a pint?

Then, what to do with the loose open ended hoses? (to keep from contaminating the rest of teh system, etc.

Thanks

 

[ptsg]

B is a swivel fitting, so you hold A with a wrench and spin B with the other wrench.

It will leak a little bit of fluid out. Not an huge amount but it's oil, it doesn't take much to make a mess.

 

[charlessenf]

I managed to dismantle the thing wo needing to disconnect the hydraulic hoses. Putting it back after the welding is done - well, knowing which fitting to turn on may prove essential! Thanks for the succinct feedback. Much appreciated. I'll try not to make a mess

 

[hoozie]

A trick: put a shop vac in the hydraulic fill hole (not deep enough to touch the fluid ), and turn it on. When you open a line, it will suck air through and keep the fluid from dripping everywhere.

 

[charlessenf]

A trick: put a shop vac in the hydraulic fill hole (not deep enough to touch the fluid ), and turn it on. When you open a line, it will suck air through and keep the fluid from dripping everywhere.

Right Arm! Great tip! I heard something like that was a thing to help changing the hydraulic fluid in my B7800 tractor. Bought the fluid years ago - still waiting to get a Round Tuit - hate to rush into these things!

Also looking for a great HOW TO CHANGE HYDRAULIC FLUID IN A B7800 video!

This time, I managed to remove that massive cylinder off the beam and onto a support wagon without disturbing the hydraulic hoses or their connections.

I wish I could sue LOWES for the cost of repairing the damned thing. After all it was the 'perfect' manufacturing defect in that the nearly thirty inches of weld never penetrated anywhere along the first two feet or so and the surfaces were smooth, flat and, but for the rust, clean as a whistle!

It is one of the situations where the limitations of warranty expiring do not apply since the defect was built into the product in such a way that only a catastrophic failure would disclose it. That is there was no way the customer could tell the weld was superficial without putting the part under stress sufficient to pop the parts apart!

Under the Law, every product comes with an IMPLIED WARRANTY OF SUITABILITY FOR INTENDED USE. In this case applying 12,000# of pressure to dislodge the anvil from the log by pressing the log against the part of the frame that came apart. TEXTBOOK "factory Defect."

 

[charlessenf]

B is a swivel fitting, so you hold A with a wrench and spin B with the other wrench.

It will leak a little bit of fluid out. Not an huge amount but it's oil, it doesn't take much to make a mess.

OK, I got the thing back together and split a large log into little pieces and, then checked the leaking fitting - it was leaking, of course.

I got a wrench and prepared to apply all my aging muscle to torque that fitting tight.

When I applied pressure to fitting C, it was loose and I started tightening up. One turn round, two turns round, then three an four before my wife shouted "hey the hose is kinking" - and she was right.

Apparently, the 'swivel fitting' wasn't swiveling like my sister Kate. Rather it wasn't budging at all. So, Do I apply a wrench to B turning it as I tighten the fitting on the pump body C ? https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/241007-splitter-split-3-jpg.1471292/

Turning A & B in unison (and direction) with the turns necessary to tighten C.

That worked! Putting a wrench to the 'swivel fitting' A and not the hose fitting B did not work - it loosened the connection between A & B!

Regardless, all is tight now and the leak appears to have been corrected.

Now to address the Hydraulic Fluid Tank's Dip Stick issue! The steel is so clean and smooth and the fluid so clean and clear that it is difficult to 'get a reading' at first glance!

 

[mikester]

A trick: put a shop vac in the hydraulic fill hole (not deep enough to touch the fluid ), and turn it on. When you open a line, it will suck air through and keep the fluid from dripping everywhere.

Why would I want to suck crud out of an external line on an implement into my tractor reservoir?

Kinda like saying close your mouth when barfing so it ends up going through your nose instead.

I let it drain out and use gravity as my friend to stop it from emptying out if required

 

[charlessenf]

Why would I want to suck crud out of an external line on an implement into my tractor reservoir?

Kinda like saying close your mouth when barfing so it ends up going through your nose instead.

I let it drain out and use gravity as my friend to stop it from emptying out if required

I suspect the vacuum doesn't 'suck crud.' Rather it provides just enough vacuum to counter any potential outflow from the hose or fitting one is separating.

Having defended the idea, I must admit never having tried it.

 

[RandyT]

I suspect the vacuum doesn't 'suck crud.' Rather it provides just enough vacuum to counter any potential outflow from the hose or fitting one is separating.

Having defended the idea, I must admit never having tried it.

It works. Have used that method to prevent fluid lose while changing the hydraulic filter on a skid steer. Also have used it when I discovered that the aluminum sealing washer had come off of the drain plug on an ATV. Applied suction to the dipstick tube hole when the drain plug was removed and installed the washer and put the plug back in and didn't loose a drop of new oil.

 

[Gregster613]

I managed to dismantle the thing wo needing to disconnect the hydraulic hoses. Putting it back after the welding is done - well, knowing which fitting to turn on may prove essential! Thanks for the succinct feedback. Much appreciated. I'll try not to make a mess
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Why didn't you just hook up to the splitter and move the whole unit to the weld shop? Me thinks that would've been easier & lots faster? No matter now since you've gotten it fixed, just curious.