Which jumper cables

/ Which jumper cables #41  
at the end of the day you need one that fits your largest engine. thats it. no a 99 dollar one is not going to start a large diesel. the one below which is just an example will start a semi, multiple times. buy one that fits the engine.

https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GB250-U...68feaee7f1282&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl

I have a midrange one, and no if you need to turn over a engine for 30 seconds, then no these are not for you. they average about 3-5 seconds of cranking for the smaller units. the positive is you can get a dc out let plug for some items, it can charge a phone, and it can start most normal vehicles, and is smaller and lighter then jumper cables. has reverse polarity protection, and you don't chance damaging something on another vehicle

its just one tool in the workbag.
 
/ Which jumper cables #42  
I somewhat agree, BUT, not every vehicle just fires up in the 2.5 seconds the jump packs give, and then it has to sit for like a minute before you try again. I think this is a both, more than an either or
maybe you need to wait. I don't. they get warm if you get crazy, but I just hit it again.
 
/ Which jumper cables #43  
Your preferred route is to carry some form of spare battery around with you. I know that works but is of limited practical use with small cramped vehicles, is vulnerable to not being charged up when you need it the worst, etc. There is still a lot of use for jumper cables for most people.
cables take more space. I charge the unit maybe once a year, and use it roughly 5 to 6 times a year. Which is more than I can say for any pair of jumper cables I ever used.

I don't even keep batteries on the key start generators anymore. I just fire them up with the jump pack
 
/ Which jumper cables #44  
I gave up on cables.... Jump packs come in large capacities and take up much space. I had one in my truck unused for 3 or more years, so I checked its capacity and surprised to see it was still at 98%. Long live those power packs.
 
/ Which jumper cables #45  
at the end of the day you need one that fits your largest engine. thats it. no a 99 dollar one is not going to start a large diesel. the one below which is just an example will start a semi, multiple times. buy one that fits the engine.

https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GB250-U...68feaee7f1282&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl

I have a midrange one, and no if you need to turn over a engine for 30 seconds, then no these are not for you. they average about 3-5 seconds of cranking for the smaller units. the positive is you can get a dc out let plug for some items, it can charge a phone, and it can start most normal vehicles, and is smaller and lighter then jumper cables. has reverse polarity protection, and you don't chance damaging something on another vehicle

its just one tool in the workbag.
Wow $1,200 bones.
Thats a lotta scratch compared to a $100 set of cables.
 
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/ Which jumper cables #46  
I gave up on cables.... Jump packs come in large capacities and take up much space. I had one in my truck unused for 3 or more years, so I checked its capacity and surprised to see it was still at 98%. Long live those power packs.
keep them around 80% especially in hot temperature if you don't want them to puff up or get damaged. they don't like sitting at full charge.
 
/ Which jumper cables #47  
Wow $1,200 bones.
Thats a lot compared to a $100 set of cables.
will a 100 dollar set of cables jump a semi? Maybe in an hour or 2. isn't that like 1 tire for you? again thats an example rated to jump a 16L engine. you prolly need a 3-400 dollar one for your trucks
 
/ Which jumper cables #48  
The tractors are pretty close to a semi in terms of 3 batteries in the battery box, but my biggest engine is only 9.5 litres
 
/ Which jumper cables #49  
Wow $1,200 bones.
Thats a lot compared to a $100 set of cables.
One option is to use the $1200 and buy 8 or 10 batteries for that price and let them sit on trickle charge for a few years. Good grief!
 
/ Which jumper cables #50  
One option is to use the $1200 and buy 8 or 10 batteries for that price and let them sit on trickle charge for a few years. Good grief!

I’ve never really had a problem with jumpers. I do see the convenience of the new lightweight boxes, but I have the built in cables on both my trucks and really like them.
I also have a big-azz John Deere battery chrager jump starter on wheels in my shop. Now that thing can jump a tug boat!!
But, it must be plugged into a 120V AC outlet.
 
/ Which jumper cables #51  
at the end of the day you need one that fits your largest engine. thats it. no a 99 dollar one is not going to start a large diesel. the one below which is just an example will start a semi, multiple times. buy one that fits the engine.

https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GB250-U...68feaee7f1282&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl

I have a midrange one, and no if you need to turn over a engine for 30 seconds, then no these are not for you. they average about 3-5 seconds of cranking for the smaller units. the positive is you can get a dc out let plug for some items, it can charge a phone, and it can start most normal vehicles, and is smaller and lighter then jumper cables. has reverse polarity protection, and you don't chance damaging something on another vehicle

its just one tool in the workbag.
$1200, I don't think so. And I still don't know how that would behave with 100 or 200 amp draw for up to a minute on a manifold heater or glow plugs before you even start trying to crank over a cold diesel.

A good set of cables I can let set on the main battery(s) for 10-15 minutes if need be then run the heat (manifold or glow plugs), then I switch the cables to the solenoid and parallel the batteries.

I stay much more comfortable and have much more confidence in success especially with a cold slow cranking engine.
 
/ Which jumper cables #52  
$1200, I don't think so. And I still don't know how that would behave with 100 or 200 amp draw for up to a minute on a manifold heater or glow plugs before you even start trying to crank over a cold diesel.

A good set of cables I can let set on the main battery(s) for 10-15 minutes if need be then run the heat (manifold or glow plugs), then I switch the cables to the solenoid and parallel the batteries.

I stay much more comfortable and have much more confidence in success especially with a cold slow cranking engine.
Nobody is forcing anyone to do anything. You want to use jumper cables go for it, not like I'm making a dime here. Read the reviews. Not sure why you need a solid minute on glow plugs, I never did that on any of the dt466 I drove and we started them in -10F. So use the cables I guess

the reviews seem positive that's it. I use one, I like it, good enough for me.
 
/ Which jumper cables #53  
Replying to post #26 There is no such thing as a DC transformer. Any transformer involves a primary and secondary coil and requires change in current flow (dL/dt being rate of change and that has to be non-zero to create the fluctuating electric field in a transformer) at some frequency back and forth to create the electric field between primary and secondary coils. Typical DC voltage converters in the old days used an "inverter" which converted the DC to AC , did the transformer parts while AC and then converted it back to DC. I'm not sure of the technology used back in the old days (many were outsized boxes with a motor inside) but like now, most of us have a 120v AC outlet in our trucks and cars. That uses a modern solid state inverter with DC driven electronic switching to create AC from the DC of the battery and then steps the AC up to 120v. Note: a rectifier is required to convert the output of your alternator to DC to then charge your battery

Replying to post #26 There is no such thing as a DC transformer. Any transformer involves a primary and secondary coil and requires change in current flow (dL/dt being rate of change and that has to be non-zero to create the fluctuating electric field in a transformer) at some frequency back and forth to create the electric field between primary and secondary coils. Typical DC voltage converters in the old days used an "inverter" which converted the DC to AC , did the transformer parts while AC and then converted it back to DC. I'm not sure of the technology used back in the old days (many were outsized boxes with a motor inside) but like now, most of us have a 120v AC outlet in our trucks and cars. That uses a modern solid state inverter with DC driven electronic switching to create AC from the DC of the battery and then steps the AC up to 120v. Note: a rectifier is required to convert the output of your alternator to DC to then charge your battery.
This is good reading: 48 to 12v converter or battery?
 
/ Which jumper cables #54  
Personally I feel Jumper cables are a waste of time anymore. I own a pair, Don't even know where they are.

yes they are cheaper, generally but it does require another vehicle or machine be able to get close enough to jump, that doesn't seem to happen for me most times.

lithium based battery jumpers are substantially quicker and easier to use, yes they cost more and you have to watch the charge on them, but unless your planning on cranking for 20s. they seem to be easier.

These work great when you need to start a car that's just got a *low* battery. IMO, have both.

My truck has jumpers because it's got the juice to start just about anything; my wife's car has a lithium ion "engine starter" thingy in case she leaves a light on too long or needs to help a co-worker.

I like the little starters for my lawn "tractor" as it's got an older battery and often has trouble starting, but it's such a small battery that even if it's nearly dead those units can manage it. Unlikely to work with a mostly-dead bigger car battery.
 
/ Which jumper cables #55  
Wow $1,200 bones.
Thats a lot compared to a $100 set of cables.
Well, last time I looked, they were over $2k for one that would start my 7.3! So I guess that is a good thing!
I don't have to worry about freezing temperatures and such down here to have any reason to drain a jump box or to leave a set of jumper cables on a diesel engine for 15 minutes, so I guess i am lucky!
David from jax
 
/ Which jumper cables #56  
about to turn into a which hydro fluid and/or engine oil is best topic......
 
/ Which jumper cables #57  
My experience is if I throw a set of jumper cables in my trunk, regardless of quality, gauge or price, it's insurance because they will never ever be used...just something to take up space and get in the way.
 
/ Which jumper cables #58  
Mine have set for over a year never being used, then all of a sudden it seems that we use them a couple of times a week then they get left alone for awhile.
 
/ Which jumper cables #59  
My experience is if I throw a set of jumper cables in my trunk, regardless of quality, gauge or price, it's insurance because they will never ever be used...just something to take up space and get in the way.
got a set of craftsmen 20ft circa 1992 in toolbox. could use them as a tow rope if so inclined. not inclined. 2 gauge VERY heavy.
whatever stanley 1200va jump box always in truck. plus it has an air compressor built in. as stated this is about to turn into a best oil topic....just here for the fun.
 
/ Which jumper cables #60  
Short, light cables in the car/truck are better than long, heavy cables in the garage.

Bruce
 

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