When my 4330 comes, the dealer said I should put the factory wheel weights (300 lbs per tire) on the rears and fill them with Calcium. This would give me max traction that I need to push that heavy snow from the drifts up and down those 12 degree slopes on my driveway road. The chains will be a big plus.
Does anybody have any opinions on the dealers recommendation or a cheaper source for wheel weights?
Don't quite understand what you are pushin' with ...FEL? If so, get the chains, fill the wheels, and forget the wheel weights, get a Chinese snow blower for the 3ph ...more weight, and you may just decide not to push ...just my 2 pence
I will be pushing a FEL (the heavy duty model). I don't think I want to drive backwards with a blower, but I will look for a good price on a front blower if these Denver winters look like they might be with us for a few years.
I might add a plow blade to the FEL that I can easily remove and put back on as others have mentioned on this site.
I did not know too much about the wheel weights. The Ford 535 I know have with a FEL is extremely light on the rears and won't go thru 1/2 in of snow without spinning the tires, even with chains ( a 2WD ).
I don't want that L4330 to be light on the rears especially around my hills. I might need to add a blade or boxscrapper on the rear for balance and I can use them in the summer to dress the road.
International 1066 with Year Round Cab, Kioti DK 45S with Cab, 451 Loader
The loaded tires should give you close to a thousand pounds of extra weight. As JoeL has said I would not fool with the wheel weights. The total weight of your tractor with loader will be around 5,400 lbs, you should be able to move some pretty big snow drifts with your 4330, especially with a good set of chains on.
Well, UPS delivered my chains from tirechain.com last night. Laid them out and tried to lay them over the tire. Quickly realized that wasn't going to work, so I spread them out on the ground, hook a chain to them and threw it over the tire. Drove forward slowly and they went right on. The are a little loose right now so I have spend some time getting them tighter.
Took them out for a spin at about 9 last night and plowed our very drifted (2-3ft in some places) driveway with no problems. The rear of the tractor will still "crab" just a little with the blade in its most angled position when plowing on a side slope but nothing like it did without the chains. I'd end up pointing the other direction on occasion before the chains. Usually I plow in 2nd range and before the chains it would spin if you had too much snow behind you. Now it will pull until the tractor almost stalls without spinning a wheel. Drop down into low range and it just motors on along.
I'm glad I went with the 2 link design because I think the 4 links would have mostly disappeared into my R4's treads. Well worth the extra money.
I'm going to fiddle with them some tonight and try to get them positioned better over the treads and tighter overall. Proabably cut off or wire up the extra links in the side chain too so they don't catch on something. Clearance is pretty good in most areas on my TC33DA. The only places that are close are the lower 3pt arms and where the fenders attach near the ROPS. Both places still have about 1-1 1/2 of room now.
International 1066 with Year Round Cab, Kioti DK 45S with Cab, 451 Loader
Just the rears Catman. The R1's on the 4330 are the same size as the tires on my Kioti. It took 94 gallons of Rim Guard to fill my two rear tires and that should add up to about 1,000 lbs of extra weight. I'm not sure of the capacity of the R4's.