Which tractor and hp range?

[JMER]

I really need some help on which tractor/hp/attachments I will need for my situation. We are building a house on 2 acres. Has underbrush and some small trees (3-4" diameter) I'll want to take out. Will want to do a lot of landscaping with it, have sloped areas I'll want to even out a little big. Digging lots of holes, prepping area for large garden, building a shop, moving landscape materials. Would like to get a Kubota/JD or NewHolland as they offer closest dealer support.

Which hp range would you suggest, which models, which attachments (vs attachments I could rent). I would like to stay under $25k including taxes. Thank you all very much! Been reading on here for a week now but want to get some ideas specific to my situation.

 

[vjcoppola]

JMER, I don't know those lines but it's a good idea to buy something with a close by dealer. Considering the heavy duty stuff you need to do I'd buy the biggest machine you can get for your budget. Later on, after you have the two acres set the way you want it you might trade down to a smaller machine just for maintenance.

 

[mikehaugen]

I can say that I have 2 1/2 acres with few trees, and I have a jd 1070 (39hp) and is much more than I need. I only bought it because I got a real good deal on it. I was actually looking at things in the 24hp range and I still believe that would be enough. The one thing that I wish that I had is 4wd. I would definitely give up some hp for 4wd.

The only time I think that having too big of tractor (within reason) is a disadvantage is if mowing with a 3pt mower. It is hard to maneuver sometimes and is not easy on the lawn. That's why when I was looking I wanted something with a belly mower.

Future plans include getting a large riding mower or possibly a ztr, then getting a larger tractor and getting rid of this. I am kind of stuck in the middle sometimes where the tractor is too large to be practical to do some things, but not large enough to do other things. Of course the things it is too small for aren't things that I need for my property though.

I think as far as brand, between the 3 you listed it just comes down to what color you like. I am sure this may start a jd vs. kubota vs. nh bash, but realistically they all make pretty good tractors and are priced pretty competitively. I could be wrong but it seems that kubota may be on the lower end of the price spectrum with comparable features between the three. Around me anyway, deere has the most accessible dealer network, and most parts are readily available, even for a 20 year old tractor.

 

[mwn1960]

Check out the john deere 3000 series or the 4005 and 4105. Some dealers offer package deals with trailer,tractor,loader,shredder and box blade or a combo of other tools. One thing i would look at is a loader with, i think its called quick attach where you can put bobcat attachments on it that you can rent. I hope this helps some. I'm not saying deere is better then other makes its just whats sold locally here with out driveing 70 mile for something else.

 

[RoyJackson]

I suggest you have as much of the landscaping work (as you can) be done by the contractor (or contract the work out yourself).
I love compact tractors (on my third one), but there is work that is done better and faster (and probably cheaper) by larger equipment.
With proper planning, I think 90% of the work (leveling slopes...area for your shop, etc.) you describe could be done by a contractor before you build your house.
Then, you can better determine which tractor fits your needs best for the remainder of the work. By that time, I think a 25 HP CUT would suffice for your needs.

 

[JMER]

Thanks very much for the replies. I agree on the 30hp range, that is what I was thinking too. Good points on the attachment idea w/the bobcat attachments. Will definitely be renting some. The belly mower is a must for me. Won't have all 2 acres in grass. I looked at NH boomer 30hp today and really really liked it. Dealer was closed so no idea on price but my dad has worked for them for 35 years so I am partial! Thanks for the point about 4x4, wasn't sure on that but sounds like it would be worth it.

Anyone have experience w/Boomer 30? Would probably get w/FEL and backhoe... assume belly mower can be added. Anyone know if the boomers have the easy attach for FEL/backhoe like JD?

 

[mwn1960]

30hp is a good range in what your looking for.The 4x4 i was to told is like adding 15% hp on a two wheeel drive,don't know if that makes any sence or if there is anything to it. Have used a early model TC30 boomer and handles a shredder with no problem. I can't see why you couldn't get a belly mower i'v seen them on deere and kubota.

 

[mikehaugen]

I'm not sure if you were referring to my post or the other about the belly mower, it's not that I can't have a belly mower but I got the tractor with the 3 point mower and finding the belly mower would not be that easy unless I go to the dealer and pay a lot of money. Also the mid pto is an option on my tractor that I don't have and the parts to get it to work are very expensive.

 

[art]

You do have a common problem, a sub-compact can do all that you need after the property is done but a larger unit can get it done faster for the immediate work. A unit like a BX 25 would get all your work done and be less then the amount you want to spend and it all could be new. A B-series Kubota like a B-2320 would also work but you'd be puhing your budget.

 

[JMER]

I guess I'm really not that concerned with the mid-mount mower. For the price of that I could just get a sparate riding mower. Most important is clearing brush and small trees, landscaping and tilling garden. I'm thinking I'd really be okay with just a FEL, some type of teeth for it for brush (?) and then some type of tiller for the garden and post hole digger for fencing and for digging holes for plants and trees.

So I'm thinking as I type... I assume weight and hp would be most important to me. I can save a bunch by not getting a BH and just getting the FEL, post hole digger and tiller.

 

[schmism]

So I'm thinking as I type... I assume weight and hp would be most important to me. I can save a bunch by not getting a BH and just getting the FEL, post hole digger and tiller.

A class 1 CUT (23-27hp) are sized for your tasks

a slightly larger class 2 CUT (30ish hp) would give you more weight and more power to do more things with your tractor.

my TC33 (now the boomer 30) is a class 2.

while slightly smaller than a class 1 CUT, a SCUT will be less expensive but im not convinced they are worth the money. I think they are overpriced lawnmowers and really if your going to pay "that" much you might as well step up to a class 1 (or used class2)

 

[deadmoose]

It is not very often you hear someone say "I wish I bought a smaller ______." Whether that be garage, tractor, etc. I am partial to orange myself. But get the one that looks best to you. As for attachments an FEL, tiller, post hole digger, and box blade are all good ones. From what I have read a backhoe can wreck the frame on a tractor the size you are looking for. As much as I would like one of those I cant cost justify it to myself when I know that for a fraction of the cost I can rent a dedicated mini x. That is for me though, not you. Also how easy to remove for other three point work? With your budget I highly recommend looking at high quality attachments ie bush hog brand. Others too. Just one example. The quality of that caliber does not compare to howse, king kutter, county line... plus you can match tractor color if desired. Just one opinion here after seeing how myself and my brother always pay more in the end for the cheapest. Between fixing then replacing cheapest always costs me more. Best of luck.

 

[Ron JD670]

I recently bought a used 18 HP manual 4WD trans JD670. It is more than enough power to tear things up even a few things I did not intend to. I'd worry more about the construction and integrity of the machine than the specific HP. If you have the time and patients you'll be able to do most of what you intend but I'd suggest having a good plan and rough in the general development with some heavy duty equipment when you have the pad cut in.. You'll have more fun finishing the landscaping unless you have a lot of time to move dirt. You'll want a box blade to level and drag dirt. If you have tough soil - I'm dealing with rock hard Rex clay - check out a tooth-bar for the FEL. Also check out a landscaping rake. You may want to get the tractor and play with it on the property before you finalize your building plans layout. It may surprise you the area you will need to turn and maneuver the tractor with attachments without Hitting buildings and trees. I kind of lucked out my place was part of a larger farm at some point.
Good luck and post some picture.
RoN

 

[Gary Fowler]

You can get a Kubota B2620 4WD with FEL and backhoe almost within your budget but not with a mid mount mower. Backhoe is over $6 grand alone, Mid mount mower is $3500. Tractor with mid-pto is about $15k. I think you can get the 2920 for about the same money. Any of the B2320/2620/2920 would be a good tractor for you. Rather than spend the $6,800 for a quickattach backhoe, you would probably be much cheaper to have your contractor level the area. I thought about using my 50HP tractor with boxblade and FEL to level the area for my house and shop but found that for $1500 I could get a dozer to cut down the hill for an area of about 350 feet in length x 100 feet wide with at least a 5 foot cut on the high side. He cut the high side, moved the cut dirt toward the low side and tapered it off with a 4 foot slope at the bottom. Cost was $60 per hour. It would have taken me weeks with FEL and boxblade to do that and not have been nearly as level when finished as what I got. I had only one small area that I had to put in about 2" of dirt in a circle about 12' in diameter after my house was built where the water ponded a bit. It was draining before the house was built but I guess the house was in the way afterward. I had to haul in about 4 buckets of dirt to level it out. Well worth the money. This was done by another contractor outside my housing contractor and since I was building on the spoil area, I let it set for a couple years to settle before building on it. If you are going to immediately build on a backfilled area, you should make sure they use a sheepsfoot type compactor on the backfill and pack it in maximum of 8" lifts. Contrary to dozer owners statement, a 50,000 pound dozer compacts very little due to the large track area. A medium sized compact tractor will compact soil more, much more in PSI under the tire area

 

[Gary Fowler]

I forgot to mention that my daughter and husband down in Texas just bought a 4 WD Kubota 2920 with mid-mount 60" mower, FEL, 5 foot tiller, a tool bar and some plows (gardening plows) for a bit over $20K. They have a 2.2 acre lot and my daughter loves driving the little tractor. I used it last time I visited and mowed a bit with it, then used the FEL to move some old pallets, boards and stuff out of the yard and into the wooded area, then flipped the compost pile and consolidated two piles into one. A very capable little tractor. It made me want a small one so bad that I went and bought a B26 TLB for use on my forever producing rock farm in Ark.

 

[NHmitch]

Just a thought , but I have a small farm on under 10 acres, and we use a 15HP 4x4 Bolens/Iseki Tractor. The tractor has more than enough power to brush hog, use a plow, and drag large logs from the woods. You would be very surprised at how much power a small diesel tractor has because of the torque. I can only travel about 15mph, but I would not want to mow that fast on a good day. Below are some videos of the same tractor as mine, and what they are capable of with only a 15hp engine. If you want the security of a new tractor with a warranty, then that may be the best for you, but you don't have to have the big payments either. A lot of people have not driven, or used a small HP tractor, and do not realize what they are capable of with the correct gearing. There are a lot of arguments why you need a larger tractor, but mine is the standard in a lot of Europe on small farms, and they do very well. I bought my tractor for under $2000. In the US, we tend to think that bigger is better, but we also have the debt that goes along with that. I just wanted to show you that you can go with a smaller tractor, and do what you need, but in the end, you have to go with what makes you happy.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O1iGpZ-d_Zc]Reno aan het maaien met de Iseki TX 1500 - YouTube[/ame]
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QjiEaxlEneM]iseki tx 1300 se vende - YouTube[/ame]
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sOBxKevFohk&feature=related]1510D Yanmar - YouTube[/ame]