Which Tractor To Keep

[Mark Page]

Bought a Massey 2615, ran it around a bit and the more I fooled with it the less I liked it. Bunch of small stuff but mainly shifting with the synchro shuttle
was a PITA. Shifting the gear levers was also difficult, not conducive to loader work.
Talked to the dealer about a 1648 compact with HST, which is what i wanted all along. He makes me a righteous deal on the 1648 and allowed me almost what I paid for the 2615 in trade. $2,500 and the 2615 gets me a new 1648.
So I'm looking through the 1648 brochure one lat time and the height catches my eye. The machine is 103" high to the top of the ROPS, my barn opening is 96". I've had 3 different tractors in the building and never had a clearance problem.
The 2615, a Utility tractor, is only 93" high, shorter than the compact.
The dealer wants to buy the 1648 and fold the ROPS down every time I enter
the building. Sure as h*ll I'm gonna' forget 1 time and either break up the building or the machine.
So should I deal with 1648 and trade the 2615, or sell the 2615 and go back to my 2wd 231s with no loader? I'd rather not keep the 2615 for reason previously mentioned.
I hate to move away from Massey, although I know Kubota, New Holland, Kioti and others are good machines.
What to do?

 

[General Lee]

Fellow Marylander here, what part of Maryland are you in? How hard would it be to raise the entrance on your building to accommodate the 1648? If it were me, and I really wanted the 1648 as it seems you do, I'd get the 1648 and deal with the ROPS. Maybe hang a red flag at the entrance of the building to remind you of the ROPS until you can raise the entrance??

 

[Mousefield]

On my Kioti the ROP folds down, very easy and quick to do.
Guess how much of a hassle that is for you might depend on how often you are in and out of your barn.

 

[dusty3030]

Might need to verify the specs.
Massey website says 92" top of ROPS, 103" to top of cab.

What tires are on it will make a difference too wouldn't it? Ags probably the tallest, turfs the shortest.

 

[Mark Page]

I live in the Parkton area. To modify the the barn I would have to cut into the main beams that the roof trusses rest on. I'm probably being difficult but raising and lowering the ROPS every time I go in or out seems like a PITA.
The sales rep I'm working with measured one today and it was 103". Yhe compact is taller than the Utility tractor. I know of a pretty good fabricator/welder that I'm going to talk to tomorrow. See if he can cut 10 inches out of the ROPS without making a mess.

 

[ruralruss]

My Kubota ROP has 3 positions. Straight up, 45 degrees, 90 degrees (parallel with the ground). In the 45 degree position it is still enough to protect me. Does the tractor you are looking at have a folding ROP?

 

[IndyIan]

I live in the Parkton area. To modify the the barn I would have to cut into the main beams that the roof trusses rest on. I'm probably being difficult but raising and lowering the ROPS every time I go in or out seems like a PITA.
The sales rep I'm working with measured one today and it was 103". Yhe compact is taller than the Utility tractor. I know of a pretty good fabricator/welder that I'm going to talk to tomorrow. See if he can cut 10 inches out of the ROPS without making a mess.

If you do cut the ROPS, you probably want a sleeve to cover the cut, that way ROPS bar itself is still the weakest part, not a butt weld.
Seems crazy that they wouldn't make the ROPS just under 8'...

 

[RoyJackson]

If you're going to cut the ROPS down, I suggest you go for the fixed ROPS rather then the folder.
As Indyfan wrote...sleeve it or put a square or retangular tube filler inside the original ROPS to keep it as strong as possible...a butt weld may not withstand a rollover...and the areas I know in Parkton are pretty hilly.

 

[aczlan]

What kind of floor do you have? If dirt/gravel you could dig down a little at the doorway and make some height that way.

Aaron Z

 

[Zebrafive]

Do they offer an shorter ROPS? Maybe a non folding model?

If I REALLY wanted that model, I would put up with folding the ROPS. I would consider it the price I pay to have what I want and have it sheded when not in use.

10" seems like a lot to remove from the ROPS. Will it still protect you? Manufacture had to certify the ROPS to that machine. If they could have saved 10" of metal on each side they would have to cut costs.

Let us know what you decide.

 

[TripleR]

My father in law shortened the ROPS on our MF 375 to fit in the shed and offer better sun protection with the metal canopy. A professional fabricator did the work and used an insert.

ROPS modification has been discussed on here a few times and those of use with shortened ROPS were taken to task over safety issues. The ROPS not only provides protection from being crushed, but from rolling over and over down a hill. By shortening it, you decrease the effectiveness of stopping the rollovers to some extent.

I try not to lecture anyone on safety issues or advocate someone modifying their tractors in ways I may have or feel comfortable in so doing.

 

[Singlemalt]

The ROPS on my DS 4110 are higher than they need be and higher than my door opening. They do have lowering options which are a PITA.

Another operator friend suggested removing the upper portion but that defeats there purpose.

When I examined the profile of the ROPS to shorten them I noticed they flare out as they come down. Removing any amount would make it impossible to realign the ROPS for an effective weld.

Bottom line is I will live with it.........no pun intended.

 

[jenkinsph]

So I'm looking through the 1648 brochure one lat time and the height catches my eye. The machine is 103" high to the top of the ROPS, my barn opening is 96".
What to do?

Hard to tell from the thumbnail pic in your avatar but can you install a new door on an endwall of the building? Most metal buildings can be fitted with a taller door on the endwall than on a side wall. My new shop building kit with 10ft sidewalls would allow for an 8' side wall mounted door but was easily ordered to fit a 10ft height door under the peak of the endwall.

I don't see any problems with shortening the rops as you mentioned. A good welder can easily handle that task. If you feel it is worth the risk then go for it.

 

[bcp]

Install a hanging PVC pipe clearance warning like this one:

Hanging Clearance Sign

Bruce

 

[jlsmith]

Just remember when you cut the ROPS you void the warranty on them and take liability on yourself "IF" anything were to ever happen.

 

[suzy]

Without a hanging guard like the one with the reflective tape on it, you run the risk of paying attention to what's ahead on your loader and not paying attention to the other...A big load might even block the view of the hanging guard and then what gets crushed? The rops or your barn? A least with my cab, the barrier is in front of me-the rops is behind you, out of sight, out of mind.