JerryG
Super Member
<font color="blue">They do not leak when not connected. </font>
Neither one should leak connected or unconnected.
Neither one should leak connected or unconnected.
Which type of quick disconnect couplers to use?
- Thread starter tomrscott
- Start date
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Summarizing the apparent answer to my original question and a few other observations and speculations:
1) It would seem that the ISO-A in the -10 size may be the most common standard for agricultural equipment. The -10 size (nominally 1/2") seems to be rated anywhere from 12 to 16 gpm flow depending on family and brand, plenty for our needs.
2) The size of the connector is not necessarily related to the threaded port on the back. The -10s are available with anything from 1/4" to 3/4" plumbing connections, but 1/2" may be the most common.
3) It might be interesting for everyone to measure the diameter of the nose of their male coupling just so we can see what sizes we all have.
4) Pricing can range from a high of almost $40 a set to as low as $10 a set suggesting that it pays to shop around. I would guess there is also some difference in quality from one brand to another. A tractor dealer is probably about the worst place to get hydraulic fittings from a cost standpoint
5) For some reason, ISO B connectors seem to be less expensive than ISO A, despite the apparent fact that they are not used as much in ag applications. It might be interesting to get the ISO standards and see how the performance ratings and specs compare, but the price difference may just be market demand driven.
6) One posting elsewhere pointed out that the flush face style are so clean and nice that he changed his whole system over to them despite the fact that he knew it would make his system incompatible with others. These connectors are noted for their almost complete lack of fluid leakage and air ingress when connecting and disconnecting. I have to admit that is appealing.
7) There are differences from one brand and model to another in terms of the O-ring material, most being Buta-N. Damage to the O-ring seems to be the most likely cause of leakage. High quality O-rings might hold up better.
8) Probably the most important thing from a care standpoint is to try to keep these connectors clean and protected from damage. Dirt and nicks or scratches will inevitably lead to leaks. Someone suggested a slick trick using rubber balloons with the end cut off as dirt and dust "boots" stretched over the mated connectors.
9) I may not worry about bulkhead mounting. I liked the look of a TNT installation (I forget whose now) where the female quick disconnects were screwed right into the ports of the joystick selective control valve which was mounted on the ROP. This left the connectors pointing right down toward the link cylinders, eliminating the need for a bulkhead panel.
10) Conclusion?: Probably I will shop around and find a good price on some -10 ISO-A from a good brand. But the flush-face style are still tempting for being almost drip free.
1) It would seem that the ISO-A in the -10 size may be the most common standard for agricultural equipment. The -10 size (nominally 1/2") seems to be rated anywhere from 12 to 16 gpm flow depending on family and brand, plenty for our needs.
2) The size of the connector is not necessarily related to the threaded port on the back. The -10s are available with anything from 1/4" to 3/4" plumbing connections, but 1/2" may be the most common.
3) It might be interesting for everyone to measure the diameter of the nose of their male coupling just so we can see what sizes we all have.
4) Pricing can range from a high of almost $40 a set to as low as $10 a set suggesting that it pays to shop around. I would guess there is also some difference in quality from one brand to another. A tractor dealer is probably about the worst place to get hydraulic fittings from a cost standpoint
5) For some reason, ISO B connectors seem to be less expensive than ISO A, despite the apparent fact that they are not used as much in ag applications. It might be interesting to get the ISO standards and see how the performance ratings and specs compare, but the price difference may just be market demand driven.
6) One posting elsewhere pointed out that the flush face style are so clean and nice that he changed his whole system over to them despite the fact that he knew it would make his system incompatible with others. These connectors are noted for their almost complete lack of fluid leakage and air ingress when connecting and disconnecting. I have to admit that is appealing.
7) There are differences from one brand and model to another in terms of the O-ring material, most being Buta-N. Damage to the O-ring seems to be the most likely cause of leakage. High quality O-rings might hold up better.
8) Probably the most important thing from a care standpoint is to try to keep these connectors clean and protected from damage. Dirt and nicks or scratches will inevitably lead to leaks. Someone suggested a slick trick using rubber balloons with the end cut off as dirt and dust "boots" stretched over the mated connectors.
9) I may not worry about bulkhead mounting. I liked the look of a TNT installation (I forget whose now) where the female quick disconnects were screwed right into the ports of the joystick selective control valve which was mounted on the ROP. This left the connectors pointing right down toward the link cylinders, eliminating the need for a bulkhead panel.
10) Conclusion?: Probably I will shop around and find a good price on some -10 ISO-A from a good brand. But the flush-face style are still tempting for being almost drip free.
RE: <font color="green"> 6) One posting elsewhere pointed out that the flush face style are so clean and nice that he changed his whole system over to them despite the fact that he knew it would make his system incompatible with others. These connectors are noted for their almost complete lack of fluid leakage and air ingress when connecting and disconnecting. I have to admit that is appealing. </font>
They are also easier to clean if they do get dirty. The flat face is easily wiped off (even on the "female" side) before connecting. On other styles, the female half is difficult to clean out.
The Pioneer style may not actually leak, but there is always a small amount of oil that escapes during disconnection. This oil typically collects in the female half where it will collect dirt and/or drip out later.
The flat-face style is also known as "drip-less" because as it is being disconnected, there is such a small volume of oil that escapes, its easy to wipe up, and has no place to collect and drip out later.
- Rick
They are also easier to clean if they do get dirty. The flat face is easily wiped off (even on the "female" side) before connecting. On other styles, the female half is difficult to clean out.
The Pioneer style may not actually leak, but there is always a small amount of oil that escapes during disconnection. This oil typically collects in the female half where it will collect dirt and/or drip out later.
The flat-face style is also known as "drip-less" because as it is being disconnected, there is such a small volume of oil that escapes, its easy to wipe up, and has no place to collect and drip out later.
- Rick
ronjhall
Super Star Member
<font color="blue"> Neither one should leak connected or unconnected. </font>
Jerry
You are correct. But they do leak. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif I have put plugged female ends on all my connectors that are not in use. It may have something to do with the 1/4" size. Another thought is Super UDT may be thinner and connectors leak because of it.
Jerry
You are correct. But they do leak. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif I have put plugged female ends on all my connectors that are not in use. It may have something to do with the 1/4" size. Another thought is Super UDT may be thinner and connectors leak because of it.
JerryG
Super Member
Ron,
I would say dirt is the probem. It takes very little to cause a leak.
I would say dirt is the probem. It takes very little to cause a leak.
RE: <font color="blue"> I guess if I put dripless connectors on my system, I could make up a couple of adapter pigtails that convert from dripless to whatever if and when I ever wanted to connect to something else. </font>
I setup an extra circuit on my loader arms so I can use Toro Dingo hydraulic attachments (they are easy to rent, and smaller than skid-loader attachments). The older Toro stuff had the Pioneer style connectors, and the newer stuff has the flat-face. I have a set of "adapters" that consists of pairs of the couplers threaded directly together (no hose). You can also purchase pre-configured adapters that may save on assembly and may be a bit more compact than all those fittings stacked up.
Also, many 3rd-party hydraulic attachments are sold with optional connectors, or without connectors altogether because they know that various tractors have various types of connectors.
- Rick
I setup an extra circuit on my loader arms so I can use Toro Dingo hydraulic attachments (they are easy to rent, and smaller than skid-loader attachments). The older Toro stuff had the Pioneer style connectors, and the newer stuff has the flat-face. I have a set of "adapters" that consists of pairs of the couplers threaded directly together (no hose). You can also purchase pre-configured adapters that may save on assembly and may be a bit more compact than all those fittings stacked up.
Also, many 3rd-party hydraulic attachments are sold with optional connectors, or without connectors altogether because they know that various tractors have various types of connectors.
- Rick
ronjhall
Super Star Member
I have cleaned the ones that had most leakage with no improvement. Northern Tool replaced 4 of the original ones I bought. I waited to long to use the rest. They were out of warranty by time I found they leaked also. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
JerryG
Super Member
The ones that you are getting may have bad o-rings.
LandscapeMan
Member
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( The ones that you are getting may have bad o-rings. )</font>
This is probabbly a dumb question.
I have a Ramrod Mini Skid steer. One of the quick connections on the angle dozer blade attachments leaks (badly) in use. I only use the angle blade for pushing snow, so it sits around most of the year without use. I wonder if yhe oring just becomes hard from not being used much. Is it possible to repalce the O-ring? And what is the procedure for replacing the entire coupler?
Thanks,
Charlie
This is probabbly a dumb question.
I have a Ramrod Mini Skid steer. One of the quick connections on the angle dozer blade attachments leaks (badly) in use. I only use the angle blade for pushing snow, so it sits around most of the year without use. I wonder if yhe oring just becomes hard from not being used much. Is it possible to repalce the O-ring? And what is the procedure for replacing the entire coupler?
Thanks,
Charlie