Who builds Cabela's brand tractors?

[MinnesotaEric]

This is based on experience. Vehicles from about the 90's up are this way.

Exactly. Put away the Ammco brake lathe.

It has to do with lightening the vehicles up to increase CAFE standards and marketed as lowering unsprung weight for better handling.

Sadly, piles of nicer Ammco lathes are now on craigslist for 1/4 what they cost new.

 

[Cherokee140]

Yes, most cars and trucks you replace the rotors when you change the pads. The brakes on your Subaru are probably way below the discard at thickness even if you just threw a set of pads on it without having the rotors resurfaced.

Nope they have tons of meat left on them....try again.

They (ford dealer) also seemed to re-use or at least did not charge me for rotors or drums (yes my cheapo focus uses drums still) when they did the brake job last summer as well.

This has not been my experience in any way shape or form, and I do own a pair of calipers.

 

[94BULLITT]

Nope they have tons of meat left on them....try again.

They (ford dealer) also seemed to re-use or at least did not charge me for rotors or drums (yes my cheapo focus uses drums still) when they did the brake job last summer as well.

This has not been my experience in any way shape or form, and I do own a pair of calipers.

Your Ford dealer resurfaced your rotors and probably charged $15 a piece to do it. In 6-8 months you will be back at the dealer saying every time I hit the brake pedal the steering wheel shakes. At that time they will sell you a new set of rotors and pads, they can make more money this way.

What year is the Focus? I'll gladly look up the specs in my Ford shop manual to prove it has throw away rotors.

 

[Cherokee140]

Your Ford dealer resurfaced your rotors and probably charged $15 a piece to do it. In 6-8 months you will be back at the dealer saying every time I hit the brake pedal the steering wheel shakes. At that time they will sell you a new set of rotors and pads, they can make more money this way.

What year is the Focus? I'll gladly look up the specs in my Ford shop manual to prove it has throw away rotors.

2010, They are not throw away if they are not too thin somewhere.

f'ing stupid....ash tray is full time for a new car. Tires worn down time for a new car.....ran out of gas time for a new car, It may be the way of the world, but that does not make it right.

 

[GManBart]

After a set of pads is wore out the most rotors are down too close to minimum specs to turn.

We have a fleet of 300+ late model cars, and I know we don't replace the rotors even close to every time we change pads....our rules require they be kept within manufacturer's specs.

I just called our head mechanic to ask him about it. We typically keep cars around 100K miles, and he said a lot of them leave with their original rotors still within spec. He agreed that the way they make rotors now isn't as good, and they don't have as much extra meat to start out with (so turning them often isn't possible), but said they still don't have to mess with them often. Sure, you get the occasional pad failure (happened to one of my assigned cars), or they get warped because someone gets crazy with an impact wrench, but those problems aren't the rotor's fault.

 

[94BULLITT]

2010, They are not throw away if they are not too thin somewhere.

f'ing stupid....ash tray is full time for a new car. Tires worn down time for a new car.....ran out of gas time for a new car, It may be the way of the world, but that does not make it right.

10 Focus
Thickness new .98"
Discard at .905"

That leaves you .075" from new to throw away. Normal driving can wear off .035-.040." So from normal driving your brake rotors will be somewhere around half wore out. Then if you have to take .010"-.015" off each side of the rotor to clean it up you would be removing an additional .020-.030." So best case scenario .035" from normal driving and .020" to clean it up for a total of .055". Then you drive a few miles and they will warp. Then factor in that you are doing it for a customer that is going to be driving in the hills and getting the brakes hot and every time they stop they are going into ABS. The customer is expecting the second set of brakes to last as long as the first set. You can buy premium rotors for your car from NAPA for $27.99. I like to use ultra premium on the front if the customer has the money. Brakes are not a place to cheap out.

 

[94BULLITT]

Exactly. Put away the Ammco brake lathe.

It has to do with lightening the vehicles up to increase CAFE standards and marketed as lowering unsprung weight for better handling.

Sadly, piles of nicer Ammco lathes are now on craigslist for 1/4 what they cost new.

Right, on vehicles now they are trying to save ounces.

We have a fleet of 300+ late model cars, and I know we don't replace the rotors even close to every time we change pads....our rules require they be kept within manufacturer's specs.

I just called our head mechanic to ask him about it. We typically keep cars around 100K miles, and he said a lot of them leave with their original rotors still within spec. He agreed that the way they make rotors now isn't as good, and they don't have as much extra meat to start out with (so turning them often isn't possible), but said they still don't have to mess with them often. Sure, you get the occasional pad failure (happened to one of my assigned cars), or they get warped because someone gets crazy with an impact wrench, but those problems aren't the rotor's fault.

A rotor should be either resurfaced or replaced when new pads are installed so the pad has a good surface to seat into and so the pad will wear properly. Brakes are more finicky on vehicles with ceramic pads too.

 

[sd455dan]

9N, 2N, 8N, NAA to name a few.
Maybe in the 800's they did not have sleeves.

Ford 671 Sleeve and Piston Kit, 134 Gas, STD (PK14G1)

Also I believe the 3000,4000,5000 were all sleeveless- Ford cited no hot and cold spots in the cylinder walls.

Those were some pretty popular tractors so there were quite a few built...

 

[paulfun9]

A rotor should be either resurfaced or replaced when new pads are installed so the pad has a good surface to seat into and so the pad will wear properly. Brakes are more finicky on vehicles with ceramic pads too.

When I start having to replace the rotors every single time I change the brakes I will start making my own rotors!!
So far I haven't had to replace a rotor with a brake change on any car or truck I have owned with less than 100,000 miles on them. I have had to resurface some rotors but that's even rare.

Also if a mechanic told me that every time I need new pads I would have to resurface my rotors I would not ever let that mechanic work on anything I own again!
You do not need to resurface the rotor to get the new pad to seat into the rotor. Every single one of my vehicles and the 1000,s I have done for others are proof of that!

 

[MinnesotaEric]

When I start having to replace the rotors every single time I change the brakes I will start making my own rotors!!
So far I haven't had to replace a rotor with a brake change on any car or truck I have owned with less than 100,000 miles on them. I have had to resurface some rotors but that's even rare.

Also if a mechanic told me that every time I need new pads I would have to resurface my rotors I would not ever let that mechanic work on anything I own again!
You do not need to resurface the rotor to get the new pad to seat into the rotor. Every single one of my vehicles and the 1000,s I have done for others are proof of that!

Working as a tech, I've never done a brake job without turning the rotors or replacing the rotors. Why? I hate comebacks and my customers hate squeaking brakes.

 

[paulfun9]

Working as a tech, I've never done a brake job without turning the rotors or replacing the rotors. Why? I hate comebacks and my customers hate squeaking brakes.

I inspect the rotors before installing new pads. Working in the garage since I was 16 and have more certifications than I can remember and have never had 1 complaint or return on any brake work in over 35 years! Yes sometimes they need surfaced and sometimes they need replaced due to how they were used or abused but I assure you when the vehicle is driven correctly with a shoe that dosnt eat the rotor they don't need surfaced every time.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

I inspect the rotors before installing new pads. Working in the garage since I was 16 and have more certifications than I can remember and have never had 1 complaint or return on any brake work in over 35 years! Yes sometimes they need surfaced and sometimes they need replaced due to how they were used or abused but I assure you when the vehicle is driven correctly with a shoe that dosnt eat the rotor they don't need surfaced every time.

Since all my customers were in the city, I've yet to see a vehicle driven correctly. Minnesota common law established the procedure I outlined to avoid potential lawsuits after some drunks girls crashed their car and won a $10M lawsuit against a Midas franchise in the late '80s.

 

[Cherokee140]

I inspect the rotors before installing new pads. Working in the garage since I was 16 and have more certifications than I can remember and have never had 1 complaint or return on any brake work in over 35 years! Yes sometimes they need surfaced and sometimes they need replaced due to how they were used or abused but I assure you when the vehicle is driven correctly with a shoe that dosnt eat the rotor they don't need surfaced every time.

So very true....Having had the....cough....pleasure of working for GM in the 80's, when they made even bigger crap then they do now, and still knowing people in the car business, I can tell you that if a car rolled out with rotors/drums that had to be replaced every brake job that would not be long for the world, the idiot that came up with that idea to save 1lb of un sprung weight would not have his job for long....I bet he would be gone faster then the ignition switch designer.

While I agree you don't "have" to turn each pad replacement, but it is one of those good practices things....I always did it as an easy way to see if it was true. I have put pads on cars once a day over a weekend, rotors even with pretty aggressive pads would last the weekend. If you had very friendly pads then it was easy to get an entire season (10 races) out of a set of rotors.

And we all know that proper procedure is often established by DRUNK girls, still does not make it right....or even correct for that matter.

 

[Guesseral]

Also I believe the 3000,4000,5000 were all sleeveless- Ford cited no hot and cold spots in the cylinder walls.

Those were some pretty popular tractors so there were quite a few built...

I have a Jubilee (NAA), a 621, 1nd an 841 all three of them has a sleeved engine.

 

[sd455dan]

I have a Jubilee (NAA), a 621, 1nd an 841 all three of them has a sleeved engine.

Yep- and If i am not mistaken by the time ford built the (10) series they were making sleeved engines again, but the 3000 4000 and 5000 tractors are parent material cylinder style engines.

Ford did build a variety of sleeved and sleeveless engines.

Having both styles also- it seems the sleeved design sure makes a (cylinder rebuild) a lot easier since it can be done in frame... that is if the crankshaft is in good shape:thumbsup:

 

[sd455dan]

Exactly. Put away the Ammco brake lathe.

It has to do with lightening the vehicles up to increase CAFE standards and marketed as lowering unsprung weight for better handling.

Sadly, piles of nicer Ammco lathes are now on craigslist for 1/4 what they cost new.

Well if it is about weight only- they could make the rotors like Porsche does - out of carbon fiber within a silicon carbide matrix and save pounds... not ounces

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Well if it is about weight only- they could make the rotors like Porsche does - out of carbon fiber within a silicon carbide matrix and save pounds... not ounces

My old SL55 had carbon brakes, and while they were cool at the track, they stunk bumming around town because they never got up to operating temperature and so I put the stock brake rotors on.

 

[GManBart]

A rotor should be either resurfaced or replaced when new pads are installed so the pad has a good surface to seat into and so the pad will wear properly. Brakes are more finicky on vehicles with ceramic pads too.

People have been saying this for years, and it's one of those absolute statements that is simply untrue as an absolute. If the rotors aren't heavily scored and are otherwise in good shape, the new pads will seat to the rotors just fine if you follow the normal directions to go easy on the brakes for the first hundred miles or so.

The last time a mechanic told me they wouldn't put new pads on my truck (was under warranty so I had them handle routine service) without turning the rotors I asked what the rotors measured and he didn't know. I said "thanks, don't worry about the brakes," went home, measured the rotors which were well within spec and looked great, put on a set of premium pads, and drove another 60K miles before selling it....brakes were still fine when it left, didn't pulse, pull, or do anything other than work the way they always did.

This is simply one of those things where auto shops, with some justification, expect that the average driver is an idiot, can't be trusted to do something as simple as drive carefully to seat the pads, and they've adopted a case of CYA on just about everything. That's fine for people working on cars for a living, but it doesn't mean that the same practice always makes sense for someone working on their own car.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

People have been saying this for years, and it's one of those absolute statements that is simply untrue as an absolute. If the rotors aren't heavily scored and are otherwise in good shape, the new pads will seat to the rotors just fine if you follow the normal directions to go easy on the brakes for the first hundred miles or so.

The last time a mechanic told me they wouldn't put new pads on my truck (was under warranty so I had them handle routine service) without turning the rotors I asked what the rotors measured and he didn't know. I said "thanks, don't worry about the brakes," went home, measured the rotors which were well within spec and looked great, put on a set of premium pads, and drove another 60K miles before selling it....brakes were still fine when it left, didn't pulse, pull, or do anything other than work the way they always did.

This is simply one of those things where auto shops, with some justification, expect that the average driver is an idiot, can't be trusted to do something as simple as drive carefully to seat the pads, and they've adopted a case of CYA on just about everything. That's fine for people working on cars for a living, but it doesn't mean that the same practice always makes sense for someone working on their own car.

The shop and tech don't want to be sued for failing to do the job according to specs. They do not care if clients don't do things to specs but if their work isn't to the accepted industry standard, and you have an accident, people have won lawsuits claiming the brakes did not work right under a maximum performance stop.

 

[murphy1244]

Brake Shops will just replace everything to CYA.