Who makes a decent chainsaw?

[Anonymous Poster]

While I'm at it, I may as well throw out my two cents on Poulan as well.

My old Poulan has been in infrequent use in my sand box since around 1980. It has been utterly reliable. Apparently the newer Poulans are not so good. Mine slobbers oil wherever you set it down (althought loosening the oil fill cap helps a lot--the oil tank is pressurized to push oil out to the bar, so loosening the cap relieves this pressure), it always starts on the first pull if warm, or on about the 8th pull if it's been sitting (sometimes a year or more, without ever draining the fuel), is light and convenient for pruning. However, if the limbs get much over 12 inches or so, it doesn't really have enough power for this sort of work.

All I've ever done to it, maintenance wise, is buy chains, air filters, and spark plugs. It needs a new bar and drive sprocket but that will have to wait a while. Since I've got the Husky now, the Poulan will only see the smaller jobs.

 

[beenthere]

Don't own one, but have been operating one quite a bit in the last few months. The John Deere is very comfortable to run, but I do not have enough run time to evaluate it over the long haul. I have owned a Stihl since 1975 (041 with original 20" windsor bar) and have gone through 24 chains. It has been one fantastic saw.

 

[scruffy]

Sites and phone numbers for Chainsaws.

 

[Wal]

<font color=blue>Apparently the newer Poulans are not so good. Mine slobbers oil wherever you set it down (althought loosening the oil fill cap helps a lot--the oil tank is pressurized to push oil out to the bar, so loosening the cap relieves this pressure), </font color=blue>

Ah ha!!!! I HAVE a Poulan (Craftsman version) So THATS why my oil fill cap is impossible to remove after sawing for awhile. Its under pressure! I know I don't put it ON that tight, but I have to get plyers to loosen it. You know what, it just occured to me that my last chain did not last long at all because I purposely /w3tcompact/icons/mad.gif put the oil fill cap on very loosely so I could remove it next time without resorting to plyers. Well, my method worked, but I also noticed that I still had quite a bit more oil left in the tank than I normally do after the amount of sawing I had just done. Plus, my chain seemed a bit on the dry side /w3tcompact/icons/tongue.gif Kinda dull, too. I presume what I had done was not allow the required pressure build-up in the tank because of the lightly closed oil tank cap!! I had no idea it worked as a pressurized system. Live and learn. That caps going on tight now no matter what!

Wal

 

[Bird]

Of course, I don't use my chainsaw just a whole lot, but I've never had a problem with a Poulan. I used one for 11 years for my firewood and gave it away when we took to full time RVing. So I had to buy a new one about 4 years ago and still no problems at all. I put the oil cap on what I would call "snug" with my thumb and index finger.

Bird

 

[Wal]

Bird,

When you put your oil cap on "snug", can you then remove it later by hand? Does it seem to be a tighter than when you put it on?

Wal

 

[Bird]

Yes, it does at least "seem" to be tighter when I try to take it off, but I still do it by hand.

Bird

 

[Youare]

Over the past 28 years I have heated our home with wood stoves and done some backyard logging with the portable sawmill I own. Durning that time I have owned 9 chain saws and 1 Wright reciprocating blade saw. There haven't been too many brands that I have not used. The major difference is in the bore of the engine. The department store brand saws will most likely have a chrome plated bore which the piston rings run against. Once the chrome wears off the saw is done. The other type engine found on the more expensive saws, the cylinder wall on these are made of a different material that is more durable.

I have had 2 Stihl saws which run and run. Two Sachs Dolmar's which are good saws, a little heavy. Two Husky's, which are also great saws. It is like buying a tractor, find a dealer you feel comfortable with. There are a couple things you can do to make a saw last for many years. First is use an oil made for chainsaws to mix with gasoline, the manufacturer's oil is the best bet. Never use a gas / oil mixture that has been around for more than 30 days. The lubricating properties break down after 1 month. Use at least 89 octane fuel, 93 is better. Keep the saw clean, especially around the cooling fins on the piston jug. Clean or replace the air filter regularly.

I wouldn't buy a saw today that does not have a chain break on it and an anit-virbration system. Depending on how much you plan on using a chain saw in a year and the diameter wood you need to cut will determine the size saw you will need. Most saws in the 2.7 - 3.1 CU.IN. size with a 16" bar will handle everything you need to cut. I have cut down 40" diameter trees with a 16" bar.

Randy

 

[Youare]

BTW I've had a McClough Mini Mac 10, McClough 10-10, some old Homlite, a Stihl 027 Super and a Stihl 015, Sachs Dolmar 119 and a 123, Husky 257 and a Husky 272XP. Still have the O27 Super, the Sachs 123, and both Husky's.

Randy

 

[dmccarty]

Youare,

What kind of portable saw mill do you have? How "old" can logs be before they are to old to saw up into usable wood?

Thanks....
Dan McCarty