Nice work! care to share how you balance the wheels ie photo ?
Didn't take a photo, but I can describe it pretty accurately.
Once the new tire is mounted, assemble all the rotating parts: ie, wheel and hub (obviously...) and in this case the sprocket and sprocket carrier, but NOT the brake backing plate, shoes and associated bits. Be sure all old weights have been removed. There are usually two types: Stick on's that are glued to the rim, and crimp on's that are crimped around a spoke. Install the axle.
I use a pair of jack stands and set the wheel/axle assembly on them with the stands far enough apart and adjusted up high enough for the wheel to spin freely. Then:
1. Give the wheel a spin and wait for it to coast to a stop. Note a logical point (I use the highest point on the wheel where it stopped) and mark it. I use a "window paint" marker, but chalk or a bit of tape will do.
2. Repeat the procedure a few times until you're reasonably certain the wheel is stopping in the same place, or nearly so, each time.
3. If you think about it, the wheel will stop with the heaviest point at the bottom. By marking the top when the wheel stops, I've also marked the lightest point. Take a scientific wild guess at the weight needed and apply it at the high (light) point, then return to Step 1 and repeat the process.
When the wheel begins stopping at pretty much random places, you've got it close enough for any non-racing application.
I use the same setup for truing, just spin the wheel and hold some sort of pointer near the side of the rim (I use a screwdriver) and watch the space between the rim and the screwdriver for variations. Tighten/loosen spokes to pull the rim one way or the other to take out wobbles.
Just remember to do both lateral runout (sides of the rim) and radial runout (center of the tire tread) for oblong distortion of the circumference of the rim.
Also, before truing, I usually tap each of the spokes with a wrench or something and listen to the tone. A flat thunk is a loose spoke, and all the spokes should "sing" at more or less the same pitch if they are equally tight. Obviously, this doesn't apply to spokes with lead weights crimped around them...