Whole house Surge Protector

   / Whole house Surge Protector #11  
Our utility installed one for about $100. Said it's good for appliances, but not for computers; they need extra protection.

I believe HD now carries a surge protector. And if you are a veteran, they give a 10% discount.
 
   / Whole house Surge Protector #12  
Maybe you did not have a hit from a lighting strike. But could have had low voltage on one or both legs of your 220. I do not how you can monitor this condition on a home. I have a Surge Protector on my motorhome. Among the items it monitors is over and low voltage. Either one will shut off power to motorhome.
The Automatic transfer switch on my whole house generator also monitors low voltage on both legs. If one or both legs get below 105 volts the generator starts.
 
   / Whole house Surge Protector
  • Thread Starter
#13  
Eepete, thanks for breaking it down to understandable terms, excellent! I now feel more confident when comparing surge protection. (Now is a good time to install the extra grounding rod after the 5"rain.)

Ronjhall, how would I determine if it was a spike or a low voltage incident?

Would a low voltage cause the ac blower motor to go bad and the new electric dryer not to work? I know for sure the dryer was not on during the storm only plugged in. (still waiting for the dryer repairman)

Do surge protectors protect against low voltage, if not what does?
 
   / Whole house Surge Protector #14  
I had a couple of appliances (hard wired and 220v) appliances that are not working after the last storm. No breakers were tripped, all wiring and breakers are new, and the house was not hit with lightning. My Electrical Co-op has no helpful information on surge protection other than using the 110v surge protectors.

Does Anyone have a suggestion on a Whole House Surge Protector?

When we built our house 5 yrs. ago our local EMC offered a whole house surge protector built into the meter for an additional $6.00 per month so we had one installed. It comes with insurance that covers any damage done to appliances, HVAC etc..from lightening.

I had read that during a lightening storm even though you don't see any damage to your electronics or appliances the electrical surges from the lightening are damaging them little by little with each storm. I believe this since in our previous house without a surge protector it seems we were always having problems with electronics and appliances....but now , knock on wood, everything is fine..and it is really nice not to have to run around unplugging everything when we get lightening.
 
   / Whole house Surge Protector #15  
A motor has to be running in an under-voltage condition to get unhappy, and it takes a while. In that condition, the motor overheats which takes time. Hard to say how long, could be 5 minutes or more. If the dryer was not running but just plugged in, it's not under voltage and is more likely a big honking spike.

Even with my whole house protection, I have a "rule" that nothing other than a light bulb is plugged into a socket without a protecting plug strip. Generally speaking, there are two flavors of plug strips. The simpler and lower cost ones just have "spike protection" in them. The device just has MOVs in it. Then there are more expensive versions that have filters in them. The filters are low pass filters which means then block the passing of high frequency energy. If you recall, lightning noise is high frequency. The spikes you get when motors turn on and off are high frequency. So the filtering strips utilize both the high frequency filtering and MOVs to protect what's plugged into them.

The slow degradation of electronic devices due to spikes is not a myth. We're back to those nasty high frequency spikes. They can couple through the power supply components and into the electronics. They also slowly strain a number of parts in the power supply (diodes and capacitors) hastening their inevitable failure. The good new is that this problem is getting to be less of a problem with almost all modern devices. The power supplies in just about all electronics (computers, TVs, chargers) use a circuit called a switching power supply. This circuit produces a lot of high frequency noise (stuff that gets in your radio and TV). So these devices have filters on the AC power line input to keep the noise from getting out so they can meet the FCC emissions specifications. Well, the same filter that keeps the high frequency noise from getting out helps attenuate the high frequency spikes getting in.

So this whole business of protecting electronics is much like the problem of storming a medieval castle. The spikes have to clear a number of obstacles before they get in. First they have to clear the whole hose filter. Then the filtered plug strip. Then, the EMI (electromagnetic interference) filter on the device itself. All these things need a good ground so there is somewhere to dump the energy.

One more nice parasitic side effect of MOVs is they have a lot of capacitance to them. This helps eat high frequency energy too.

At story: At our old house, I had 9 ground rods. We had a very bad drought in 2003. I had a PBX phone switch at the house since it was built in 1988. During that dry summer, we had a bad storm. I lost the PBX. We had plenty of bad storms before, but the dry conditions affected the ground quality. No problems with anything before or after that. Our neighbor across the street and on the same transformer was always loosing stuff. So it was an interesting test case for the "gauntlet of protection" I had.
The ground system also helps the telephone company's gas tube protectors work better. I don't know if I lost the PBX to an AC spike or a telco spike.

Protecting AC is very different from protecting "information" wiring like telephone, driveway sensors, and coaxes. But all protection circuits need a good ground. Information stuff is easier to protect because the wires are smaller (so they get more voltage drop on them when they get hit) and you can introduce some loss (resistance) into the scheme with no problems. But I'll stay on topic with AC power protection.

As for protection of low voltage, the only devices I know that do that are transfer switches for generators and UPS like you use on computers. I have a big honking UPS in the house and every computer and TV is on it. The little ones you can by at the box stores will switch over when the input voltage is high or low. There is no economical solution for the big motor loads of your house, like compressors and fans. It would be really nice if the manufactures build sensing and cut-off circuits into these devices, but since so few people understand this stuff no one would be willing to pay for it.

As with all types of protection (power, lightning, fire, security, etc) the absolute last "stage" of protection is insurance. And you also have to realize that like many points in you life, sometimes despite your best efforts and preparations you're gonna get kicked and you just have to own it, not expect someone else to pay for random back luck, fix it on your own and continue onward. Ooops, got a little philosophical there :eek:.

Pete
 
   / Whole house Surge Protector #17  
Here is a dumb question:

I have a 400 amp service in my house-Two 42 space CH panels. Would I need two units (one on each panel) like the one Zick posted a link to?
 
   / Whole house Surge Protector #18  
haha, I was just thinking the same thing cause I also have a 400 amp service but have 3 panels.
Wasn't sure if I just need one on the main panel or one for each.
 
   / Whole house Surge Protector #19  
haha, I was just thinking the same thing cause I also have a 400 amp service but have 3 panels.
Wasn't sure if I just need one on the main panel or one for each.

I have three also if you count the generator panel! Forgot about that...
 
   / Whole house Surge Protector #20  
Everything I've read so far on these and about WHSP make it sound like you just need one on the breaker panel closest to where the electrical service enters your home.
But I'm no electrician. :eek:
 

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