Whuch Tires do I get? AG? Industrial?

[MossflowerWoods]

Ok, how hard is it to switch tires? do you keep a full set of spare rims and tires? I would assume that is SPENDY! I would also assume I'd need one **** of a jack to raise the rear so I could get a rim off!

I'm still leaning towards R4's. Yes I have some clay, but I have decent drainage in most spots, but I also have a ton of stumps, timber slash, and unfortunately garbage like scrap metal, broken glass etc.

I suspect a flat tire will ruin my weekend.

Also are liquid filled tires standard and do they effect traction due to the increased weight?

Thanks,

 

[stravis]

I prefer the AG tires, R1's. My property has water and in some areas can have some deep mud in the winter. I really need them.

Although the majority of my work is cutting grass, I also use it for ground engaging work and loader work. I have no problems with excessive wear (very little pavement), load capacity, etc that the R4 folks will tell you the R1's do. Nor do my tires tear up my yard.

While I understand that the R4's carry a load better, I would argue that they are not necessarily better for loader work. Case in point, a friend of mine had to move several tons of soil on the lot that he was building a house. The material was piled in one area and needed to be moved to another. He was on a Case 580 backhoe with R4's. I was on my JD 5101E with R1's. Mine is lighter by about 3000#. His has far better hydraulics and a larger bucket. I could move twice the soil that he could, even when we were both in 2 wheel drive. The reason was that on the hard clay, his R4's couldn't get the traction to push the bucket in the compacted pile. He had to wiggle the bucket around to loosen the soil in order to get half a bucket full. I, with my R1's could fill my bucket easily by simply pushing it in. I had far more traction and therefore could work circles around him. We've also gotten that tractor stuck numerous times in wet grass on a slight slope, even with the weight. I've had to use the hoe to pull myself out on that backhoe a dozen times.

As for what's best for you, you'll probably not be unhappy with either. Just know that in my case, the R1's will last a very very long time, have better traction, ride better, carry a full bucket load just fine, take rocks and stumps fine, and I've never been stuck (crosses fingers).

If you'd like, I'd be happy to go out and take a picture of the tread on my tires. They have 300 hours, about 35 paved miles and two years on them and they look new.

 

[k0ua]

Ok, how hard is it to switch tires? do you keep a full set of spare rims and tires? I would assume that is SPENDY! I would also assume I'd need one **** of a jack to raise the rear so I could get a rim off!

I'm still leaning towards R4's. Yes I have some clay, but I have decent drainage in most spots, but I also have a ton of stumps, timber slash, and unfortunately garbage like scrap metal, broken glass etc.

I suspect a flat tire will ruin my weekend.

Also are liquid filled tires standard and do they effect traction due to the increased weight?

Thanks,

Lets see.. well how hard to switch rim/tires depends on whether you have them filled. Unfilled, fronts just like a car, Rears, not a lot of fun..
Filled, fronts still like a car, you dont fill them. Rears a real PITA. I have only done it once with filled, and I didn't like it. The jack does not have to be anything special, I just use my floor jack. As to price of a whole new set of rims and tires.. yep spendy and you have to buy both fronts and rears of each type as they have to match for the gearing to match in the front and rear diferentials.. Liquid filled is not standard, but worth it in my opinion. Some do not like them, mainly due to the hassle of the flat tire, (what in heck do I do now) BUT, they help prevent rear end lift when using the loader, (you still need ballast tho on the 3pt). and they help stabilty when you sidehill like when mowing on a slope, and you cannot have your ballast box on the 3pt. You will discover that a bare tractor as it comes off the truck is not the best thing to use with a front end loader full of gravel. It is scary. You need 3pt ballast to take weight off of the front axle, and add stability, and loaded tires help stability also. A well ballasted tractor is a joy to do loader work with, a bare tractor is scary and unsafe, unless your loader work is moving mulch, or a little square bale or 2 or a full load of marshmallows. It only takes a time or 2 of getting your rears off the ground a couple of feet to make a believer of you, and keep in mind the front axle is solid, no suspension, and pivots on one big bolt in the middle so if your rears rise off of the ground, and it is even slightly sloped, over to the side you go, as in one rear on the ground, one off and front axle pivoting. And it happens fast, very fast. If you dont drop that bucket instantly, your shiny new tractor can be on its side pretty quick, expecially if it is sloped that way to begin with and you load or have pressure on the downhill side causing the uphill side to lift. It has happened to all of us, just be ready for it. always have your hand on the joystick loader control when using the loader. (with a load or putting pressure on it.) Enough of scaring you. (for now)

James K0UA

 

[whistlepig]

If you have to deal with a lot of mud or heavy pulling in soft ground R1's are by far the way to go. For me my tractor is used for mowing on firm ground, loader work on firm ground, and snow removal with chains. I prefer the R4's. They wear much better, much nicer with snow chains, and are far more cut resistant. There are different flavors for different reasons. You will have to pick a tire to fit your particular needs.

 

[crazyal]

Ag tires look cool. I've had limited luck with R4s, they work well when they are new but I had a set that was more than half used and I ended up replacing the rears when I got a slit in one of the sidewalls. The new tires were day and night different. The new ones would dig while the old ones would just spin. It's not like the old ones were worn out, the edges on the lugs were just rounded over. I have seen lots of farm tractors with worn Ag tires that work just fine.

 

[ayelvington]

Can I have some of that popcorn?

The reason that I envy my neighbor's R1s is because of the clay. I worked in the woods with chains on for most of the spring because of my R4s loading with clay and losing traction without some steel to give me bite.

Mmmmm, good popcorn

 

[MossflowerWoods]

Can I have some of that popcorn?

Mmmmm, good popcorn

I just keep getting more and more and more confused about everything except the popcorn. It is VERY Good...

So I will ask the question differently.

#1 - I have already decided on filled tires for ballast and side hill benefit.
#2 - I will be doing loader work, there is just too much crap I need to move around.
#3 - The only pavement on my property is the 12' concrete driveway infront of the 2-car concrete pad the attached car-port has. Pavement is 1600' past my gate.
#4 - I have some clay under the top soil, but MOSTof my property has excellent topsoil with a heavy layer of pine needles and "mulch"
#5 - I have a ton of downed wood. Pine tops and limbs that the loggers spread around and drove over 100's of times. they are very slippery when wet.
#6 - I know the loggers lost at least a few lugs off their giant AG tires on thier JD skidder and cutter because I have found the lugs out on the property.

So here is the question...

Given the above, if I get R4's and chains, and when it is wet/snowy I put chains on will I have any traction issues?

In addition, SPECIFICALLY how much "lift" weight do I lose with AG tires?

Thanks in advance,
Confused David...

 

[MossflowerWoods]

Enough of scaring you. (for now)

James K0UA

Good! Cause I'm Skeert!

I have a lot of side slopes, I do not want to test the ROPS, nor do I want to break my little roof thingie.

I'm goign to try to be timid on the tractor until I get enough hours to get comfy.

David

 

[MossflowerWoods]

If you have to deal with a lot of mud or heavy pulling in soft ground R1's are by far the way to go. For me my tractor is used for mowing on firm ground, loader work on firm ground, and snow removal with chains. I prefer the R4's. They wear much better, much nicer with snow chains, and are far more cut resistant. There are different flavors for different reasons. You will have to pick a tire to fit your particular needs.

Here's the deal. As soon as I get the 5+ acres of stumps mulched so I can start on pasture work, I will have 5 acres of mud for a few months for sure, but as soon as I have it planted, and as soon as I have trails cleared, I suspect I will have nice firm ground for YEARS after that.

At least until the big clearcut harvest...

David

 

[Elkins45]

I'm goign to try to be timid on the tractor until I get enough hours to get comfy.

David

Statistically speaking, that's when you'll roll it. Guys who are being cautious rarely roll their tractors...it's the guys who have grown comfortable that do.