Why am I destroying tail wheel forks?????

   / Why am I destroying tail wheel forks????? #61  
NOPE I understand what was implied very well but I think you don't understand what the u-shaped part is intended to do if not securely clamped tight.

When tailwheel goes over a rise or berm IF BOLT doesn't have u-shaped piece held tightly the center link & u-shaped will pivot lower similar to a hinge on a gate allowing tailwheel/rear of cutter raise with no bending/destruction of parts. The u-shaped part has been performing similar that since I was 1st employed by a farm equipment dealer in 1965. I'll repeat no need to change lift bars(#2) to chains.

Did you not actually read what I wrote or watch the video I posted? If I understand you correctly, than we are all in agreement on what the U bracket does and how it's to be adjusted and used.

Otherwise, I'm confused as hell as to what you are saying. :unsure:
 
   / Why am I destroying tail wheel forks????? #62  
Did you not actually read what I wrote or watch the video I posted? If I understand you correctly, than we are all in agreement on what the U bracket does and how it's to be adjusted and used.

Otherwise, I'm confused as hell as to what you are saying. :unsure:
No but I'll watch the video you posted.
 
   / Why am I destroying tail wheel forks????? #63  
Before this degenerates further, let's summarize:
  • For most situations - mildly uneven land - the brush cutter as-is should be used with the top link extended somewhat so that the cutter's flex link ("u-shaped piece") is at a mid-point in its rotation with the cutter positioned for flat ground
  • If the tractor is expected to climb a sudden very steep grade, or if the cutter is being backed up a sudden steep grade (such as when going through a ditch, or to mow up a bank), either
    • The operator must retract the top link (if hydraulic) if this provides sufficient flex
    • The top link should be replaced by chain (with care that the chain doesn't interfere with the PTO shaft
    • The A-frame links should be replaced by chain
 
   / Why am I destroying tail wheel forks????? #64  
What's wrong with simply let the mower ride on the ground instead of dealing with wheels that get bent or keep adjusting the 3pt height so the front of the mower is on the air?

 
   / Why am I destroying tail wheel forks????? #65  
I'm wondering if the no-wheel cutters have taller sides and wider skids.

Mine cuts about 2 inches high when on the ground and the skids leave deep grooves if they touch.


Bruce
 
   / Why am I destroying tail wheel forks????? #66  
I'm wondering if the no-wheel cutters have taller sides and wider skids.

Mine cuts about 2 inches high when on the ground and the skids leave deep grooves if they touch.


Bruce
The skids on mine are like 60 mm wide. Doesn't dig at all and it will only leave marks if I turn too sharp.

Also, the sides are adjustable in 3 positions wide adjusts how high it leaves the brush cut. Lowest position, it's like 1" high but on uneven ground, is always digging on the dirt. Middle position is around 2" high and third position is roughly 3" high. I run mine on the middle position, it seems to work the best for me.

These also run chains to "cut" the brush and not blades.
 
   / Why am I destroying tail wheel forks?????
  • Thread Starter
#67  
Here. This is a finish mower, but the top link set up is the same:


That makes sense now. I get it & see what I was doing wrong.

Wanna see how I tore up my tiller next? :)
 
   / Why am I destroying tail wheel forks????? #68  
He can see!

LOL
 
   / Why am I destroying tail wheel forks????? #69  
It only took 7 pages !!
 
   / Why am I destroying tail wheel forks????? #70  
I should replace arrow #1 or #2 or either with chain?

If #2 I can picture that in my mind and looks like it would solve my problem. If #1, that's where I get confused since no matter how I set the BH down - on 4x4, on blocks, whatever, I have to adjust toplink to either attach or get the level correct and don't see how I'd do that with just a chain in place of arrow #1 without jacking up back of BH or something. I remove & ground the BH frequently.


Oh...and that PTO shaft cover was like that when I bought it. That's my story and I'm sticking to it! :)
My 20+ year old Bushhog came new with chain in place of #2 in your photo. I worked great. I adjusted the top link so when I needed to raise it I could if I lived the lower arms enough, but otherwise it was free to float.

My PTO cover looked like that the last 10 years I owned, so I thought that was normal. :)
 

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