Why buy a Deere CUT?

   / Why buy a Deere CUT? #21  
In the OP’s first post, he has already done his homework..
 
   / Why buy a Deere CUT? #22  
I have a Kubota B2710 which I bought used about 13 or 14 years ago with about 200 hours on it. It does not have loader and wish it did but never thought of loader on it when shopping. Like it a good bit and have used in in some ways that some would be surprised at. Have pulled 500 gallon sprayer with it, dirt was firm or it would not have done that as the loaded sprayer out weights it. Great with rough cut mower in the woods as it is easy to back into tight spots. I have brother in law with a 4 series JD he bought last year I have operated maybe 2 hours. Big difference in the size of the two tractors and I really prefer the JD 4 in size over my B2710. This is not an apple to apple and I realize that but for what is worth:
Kubota (I have two one bought new in 1999 a M6800) and they rust. Sorry. Metal hoods and fenders get scratched and they rust. Weld seams on roll bars rust. It not just mine I have noticed that on either. Reminds me of the Japanese cars from maybe the 70's.
My B2710 does have 3 speed HST and my brother in laws JD 4 series has 2 speed HST and noticed that right off. His JD has fel and used it a good bit and never had issue with it needing another speed. In reality the lowest range on my Kubota is only used for improper reason, using to move tractor while standing on the ground to hook implement. On the JD to me the fel control was in bad location as I would hit it when turning to right to watch backing up. Took me a little while to realize why the loader was changing when backing.

Again my B2710 and the JD series 4 are not same size but think the lift arms are heavier on the JD but those on my Kubota have done well even though both of the sliding stabilizers have slight bows in them.

For my nickle the Kubota makes very good engine but think their transmission is light weight compared to JD. This has shown up with my M6800 twice requiring transmission repairs under 1,000 hours.

Have used the rocker pedal on the Kubota HST for years but think the side by side of the JD is easier as it does not require the lifting of the foot to change the direction.

I have enjoyed my two Kubotas and may buy another but three years ago bought a used JD larger tractor and prefer the JD. Might sound odd but it just feels great. Have others who has used it and they say the same about how good that tractor is to use with comfort being some of it.
 
   / Why buy a Deere CUT? #23  
You asked what drives Deere owners to get a Deere in your original post so here it is. No one could touch the deal I got. If that deal would have been Kubota I would have Orange in the garage instead of Green. It was just that simple for me. So if you go on line and price compare MSRP then you are correct, less tractor more money. But if you actually do some shopping around there are deals to be had.
 
   / Why buy a Deere CUT?
  • Thread Starter
#24  
I've been looking some at the used market and can find, pretty reliably, newish used Deere 3038e and 3032e models. These are priced significantly lower than the new price. Makes them much more competitive with brand new offerings from Kioti which is currently my target for a brand new tractor. I am very hesitant to buy used, but United Ag who sells Deere in my area has a pretty big dealer web and that makes me feel comfortable buying used from them. We will see - I am not pulling the trigger any sooner than the end of the year and possible a little longer than that.

Thanks for all your input. If anyone has experience, comments or opinions on the 3032e or 3038e, I would be interested in reading them. Curious how significant a move from the 3032e to the 3038e would be. I plan mainly to use the tractor for clearing brush with a grapple and shredder. My property is heavily wooded, so I will not be mowing big grass fields. There is some slope, but not too steep as the soil is pretty much sand.
 
   / Why buy a Deere CUT? #25  
my neighbor has a 3032e, its been a good tractor for him - I have used it a few times doing box blade and loader work around my place/garden I liked it fine, it didn't seem to be as strong as my 2038R in the high range running down the road his seems to have less power and it was noticeable I realize mine is a few hp more and lighter but I wouldn't have thought it would have been as noticeable - he just wishes he would have gotten one that he could put a MMM on, you cannot on the 3032e he has - im not sure if that is the case with all of the 3032e models. im sure his will lift more due to the 3series chassis vs my 2 series but for what I do the 2 series is fine.

It sounds like the 3032e would be a great machine for you or the 38e - i don't know how a 3038 would compare to the 3032 but i can tell a difference with my 2038 compared to his 3032 - maybe its the difference in the hydros and gearing - not sure
 
   / Why buy a Deere CUT? #26  
You've heard a lot of comments about dealers here, I cannot agree more the importance of a good one. Our local JD (Denton, TX) where I had bought a JD4100 from took me over the coals on a Ferris ZT, to thank him I drove 25 miles and ordered my 3032 cab, FEL MMM.
My understanding the difference between the 3032 and 3038 is the 32 is normally aspirated and the 38 has a turbocharger, 7 more HP. I chose the 32 as I do more mowing and didn't need to burn the extra fuel.
YMMV.
 
   / Why buy a Deere CUT? #27  
GOSH! We had 2 Rs built in 1950 I think. Is John Deere going backwards? :eek: Really,buy an M as the frames are heavy and matching loaders are heavier. My 5075M out weighs the E by 1000 lb, and the attach point for the loader is massive. Will never break it.
 
   / Why buy a Deere CUT? #28  
Nobody was testing out Yanmar tracotors???
No dealers?

willy
 
   / Why buy a Deere CUT? #29  
Only my personal preference, but for SCUT to JD2R size class I prefer Kubota and Massey Ferguson.

JD3R size and up, a good dealer would be the deciding factor between a Kubota, Massey or JD.
 
   / Why buy a Deere CUT? #30  
Maybe current owners can correct me on this, but here are my reasons for passing over the 1R and 2R Deere's and their previous 2X20 series. For years and even after the model update all I kept reading about on all the forums was complaints of loader arms and fuel tank mounting brackets that bent. overly complicated and unreliable mm mower independent lift systems, and auto connect decks that were hit and miss.
And the "secret" driveline grease fitting no one knew about until they started failing.

I know they still have the mm mower deck lift issues, but has the other stuff been corrected yet?

One good thing about them though is I never hear of frame, engine or transmission problems in them.
 
 
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