Why doesn't my quick attach line up?

[Pixguy]

OK, I bought a saltdogg sand /salt spreader that instead of putting it on my F-150 truck, I've decided to put it the 3pt. hitch. I ordered a 3pt. hitch receiver and a 3pt. quick attachment so that I can blade the gravel road and quickly throw on the spreader. Both are supposed to be cat1.

So as you can see from the pictures, the top hook doesn't line up with the top pin. I can't lower the hook or it won't fit in the area to hook the pin. What is wrong or did I screw up somewhere? Can the hook be cut? Sure but it'll weaken the strength.

 

[DuckSlayer1017]

I'd modify the top link bracket before I'd consider modifying the hook. Maybe just cut some off the edge so it goes in further.

 

[s219]

Implements have to be quick-hitch compatible to work. Not all of them are. Doesn't look like that receiver frame is.

 

[KennyG]

You've fallen victim to the incomplete quick hitch standard. The standard specifies the pin size and spacing but not the geometry of the hook and frame. Your receiver would be compatible with something like the original John Deere I-Match with the fixed hook because it sticks out farther. I would probably drill a hole to match the hook location. The top hook won't pick up appreciable load, so that shouldn't be a problem. An alternative would be a top link like this:

Top Hitch Adapter-Quick Hitch | Agri Supply #61369

You can remove the hook and use this for any implement that doesn't match the hook spacing.

 

[aeblank]

Your receiver would be compatible with something like the original John Deere I-Match with the fixed hook because it sticks out farther.

I disagree! It isn't open access from the bottom (from what I can tell), which makes it flat out non-quick-hitch-compatible. Some weld-on tabs would make it usable, that adapter would make it usable, or return/sell it and get a QH compatible one.

 

[Fallon]

I've had 3 QHs from 2 different manufacturers & all were like this. It's a very common problem.

I ended up pulling off the hook welding on a 1.5-2" extension on the back & re-writing the holes so the hook stuck out further on all of em. There are several threads on here about that mod. Lots also replace the bolts with hitch pins for easier adjustment if needed.

Used 1 in the 3pt, welded the 2nd to a SSQA plate to mount my snow plow to (great for picking up & working on implements with the loader too) & the 3rd I picked up for a friend.

Just ordered another Harbor Freight QH for my new L4060hstc as the first 2 ran off with my old L3200 when it sold. I expect I'll be doing more welding. But at $80 it's a better deal than a $300+ iMatch or LandPride that probably has the same issues. All the cheap ones are the same quality if not out of the same factory.

 

[George2615]

Agree to either weld on tabs and drill a new hole to make it usable or return it and get a QH compatible.
It may be a little thin but you might have room to just drill another hole for the top link pin.

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

I'm surprised no one mentioned this so I guess I could be wrong but...

Every cat1 QH I've seen requires lift pin bushings to convert the cat1 to cat3 size:

http://m.northerntool.com/products/...8sOw9Qivze8b0iueYksW7v19lPvwg43troaAjpS8P8HAQ

The increase pin radius will likely raise the top link pin enough.

I really think I'm right here.

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

Nevermind I reread your OP and retract my previous comment. :drink:

 

[orangeandgreen]

There is a thread on here about welding an extension to the back of the hook and drilling 2 new holes in it..
Another option is an adapter in place of the hook, this is what I use since all my attachments aren't QH compatable.

Top Hitch Adapter-Quick Hitch | Agri Supply #61369

 

[Pixguy]

Lots of great ideas guys. I'm going to search for the other threads and see if welding/drilling is better than buying that adapter. :drink:

 

[daugen]

My expensive Land Pride Quick Hitch is leaning up against the wall of my barn. Even LP Quick Hitch compatible implements had issues.
found out that "floating top link" or adapter is a must, but finally just went back to using oem Kubota extendaforks.
Paying more for a Quick Hitch apparently buys one absolutely nothing as far as increased compatibility or engineering.

and of course no PHD works with a quick hitch either. Seems to be a good idea if your most used equipment is compatible.
I wound up buying a second tractor...

Looks like this is fixable, if one is handy and has a welder.

would Pat's Quick Hitch style avoid these problems?

 

[tman1020]

I just shaved off about a 1/4 to3/8 of an inch off the inside of my harbor freight quick hitch's hook.
It was easy just took a steel blade in my sawzall and ran right down the hook. Then took a new grinding wheel and smooth it out at the bottom.
Adding a extension to the back and Drilling new holes sounds like The best option though.

 

[CCWKen]

I remember having to modify at least one of my implements to get the width of the top to clear the hook bracket. I think it was my old flail mower. It has a huge upper link bracket. I also replaced the bolts for the hook with rivets since the bolt heads and nuts prevented the top of the implement from going back far enough. As already mentioned, not all implements are made with a wide enough top or the pin is too deep in the bracket to catch the hook. Rather than modifying or changing the location of the hook for every implement, I would modify all the implements to be QH compatible. Any new implements should come compatible.

 

[Texasmark]

I was going to buy an elcheapo ($90) as I recall rigid frame type from a popular supplier until I realized that my implements are generic and no two have the same dimensions. So I bought Pat's quick hitch instead, with the spreader bar that has a variable width set screw. I realize this doesn't solve the current problem, but it does address the problem of quick hitch selection and varying dimensions.

 

[Fallon]

I modified a couple of my implements to fit on my QH, even my PHD. Of course the PHD mod requires a hydraulic toplink but it works better & has some downpressure for the top part of the hole. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=327212 as you can see others have done it before I did as well.

Sold the L3200, PHD & some other impliments the other week. Have another PHD frame I got off Craigslist for $20 sitting there waiting to get chopped up & rebuilt for the new L4060 coming this week. It will have a QH & TnT as well. Any new impliments will get modified to fit if needed again as well. It's just so easy to hitch up with a QH & TnT there is no way I'd be without.

 

[tman1020]

It is a little bit of a pain getting everything to line up but oh so worth it. Quick hitch with a hydraulic top link is the way to go I think. I can change implements four times in five minutes and don't have to pound bang pry push pull lift drag Cuss kick or strain in anyway. Just flip down to levers and away you go.

 

[aeblank]

The OPs trailer puller isn't qh compatible. If it was, the top hook would be adjusted all the way down (15") not at the top (18"). Even extending the hook doesn't do it. You (he) can't move the hook down far enough to unhook it. The center post is there.

 

[KennyG]

The little mods and adjustments required for the QH can be annoying. However, I would never give mine up. It has made life so much easier.

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

Yup. Cold dead hands.