Why is my 284 so difficult to start?

[meporsche]

Not trying to monopolize this forum but since I am getting good help I thought I would try my other problem. The engine is reluctant to catch, even in warmer weather. I make sure I trun the key to heat the glow plugs before attempting starting. It just doesn't like to start.

My 40 year old Massey 135 will start right up on a few spins, even in very cold weather and it doesn't have glow plugs. What am I missing here? Air, fuel, compression, bingo, right? SUrely even a Chinese low tech diesel is equal to a 1970 Perkins? And I don't even use a heater on the Massey.

How can I test the glow plugs to see if they are operating (I don't have an ammeter)? Where are they, how do I remove them for testing if that is what is necessary? My manuals are of no help. And it gets REALLY cold here and January, I will be in deep doo if I can't start this thing when it's -10.

Thanks to any and all who can offer some help.

Darwin

 

[Diamondpilot]

First thing to do is to make sure your glow plugs are hooked up. Many report the wiring is not hooked up. From there turn the key to the heat position and make sure you are getting voltage.

Also check the fuse for the GP's.

Chris

 

[Bob Rooks]

First off, for those temps you should have a lower radiator hose heater anyway. Secondly, a Chinese diesel is definitely "equal-tech" to a 70's Perkins except for the CAV fuel injection pump.
Do you have a lot of white or light grey smoke after the engine starts? Has it always been hard to start? How many hours on the engine? Is the air filter clean? It could be that the fuel injection pump timing is too far retarded. Is the cranking speed slow or fast?

Also, what Chris says is correct too.

 

[biggerten]

How can I test the glow plugs to see if they are operating (I don't have an ammeter)? Where are they, how do I remove them for testing if that is what is necessary?
Darwin

Are you sure your tractor doesn't have an ammeter? First one I heard of that didn't. When you turn the key to H you should see the meter needle 'peg' to the left. This is an indication the glow plugs are working. When it's cold, I use the glow plugs to a count of 30 before trying to start.

I also have a lower radiator hose heater and plug it in for an hour when it's cold. When it's warmer, it doesn't need to plugged in as long. Experience will tell you how long it needs.

As for the glow plugs themselves, you'll see them by the rocker arm cover, they're little metal studs with a metal strap connecting them, and a wire should go from the strap to the ignition switch. If I recall, a deep well 10mm socket is required to remove them (kinda like removing a spark plug). Caution, clean the area around them with a blast of air or something if you remove them, and make sure you don't drop any of the tiny nuts and washers into the hole they screw into, or you'll be removing the cylinder head to get them out. Put a little anti-sieze on the threads before replacing them.

Good luck!

 

[greg_g]

Air, fuel, compression, bingo, right?

Actually, compression is part of your problem. That's why there's a compression release. You should glow the plugs, open the compression release, spin the starter, watch for oil pressure, close the compression release, engine starts. You might have to repeat this sequence a time or two on colder days.

If yours is one of the newer ones, it may have a manifold heater instead of glow plugs. You need to verify, the two don't work the same. Some have been reported to have both, with the manifold heater hooked up - but not the glow plugs. If it's an older one with glow plugs only, I recommend installing a relay. It permit more amperage to get to the glow plugs; more amperage = more pre-heat. Others (including me) have also modified the wiring so that the glow plugs don't cool off while the starter is engaged.

And FWIW, I too have NEVER seen a Chinese tractor made in the last 10-12 years that didn't have an ammeter.

//greg//

 

[Affordable]

If the tractor is new and has the oval dash panel they do not have a amp gauge,I would check the fuse for the glow plugs first that may be your problem.Also get you a inline lower rad.hose heater made by Katz under $ 30.00 and they work great

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

 

[biggerten]

If the tractor is new and has the oval dash panel they do not have a amp gauge

Wow. No ammeter.

 

[Steve C]

Actually, compression is part of your problem. That's why there's a compression release. You should glow the plugs, open the compression release, spin the starter, watch for oil pressure, close the compression release, engine starts. You might have to repeat this sequence a time or two on colder days.

If yours is one of the newer ones, it may have a manifold heater instead of glow plugs. You need to verify, the two don't work the same. Some have been reported to have both, with the manifold heater hooked up - but not the glow plugs. If it's an older one with glow plugs only, I recommend installing a relay. It permit more amperage to get to the glow plugs; more amperage = more pre-heat. Others (including me) have also modified the wiring so that the glow plugs don't cool off while the starter is engaged.

And FWIW, I too have NEVER seen a Chinese tractor made in the last 10-12 years that didn't have an ammeter.

//greg//

O.K.

Now we are getting somewhere

My tractor has a compression release lever, but the instructions leave a lot to be desired. I don't know which way to push it when starting and I don't know if it closes itself after the ingine starst????? It just says to use it????
WTF what does that mean? I have a Farmpro/Jimna 2425

 

[TTTTTT]

Wow. No ammeter.

Yea, it is a bummer with no ammeter. My DF has the newer oval dash with no ammeter. Would like to add one though

Dave

 

[greg_g]

My tractor has a compression release lever, but the instructions leave a lot to be desired.

There is more than one kind of linkage design, my Jinmas had a chromed lever that could be turned right or left. The direction didn't matter, either way opened 3 of the valves so the pistions couldn't compress. The linkage was spring-return, so I turned the lever 90 degrees with my left hand and held it there while I held the keyswitch over in the START position with my right. When doing this, keep your eyes on the oil pressure gauge. Takes a few seconds - but as soon as you see oil pressure building, let the compression release close. The engine should start to catch now. It may be necessary to continue holding the keyswitch over in START for a while longer, till the cylinders start firing. If the engine isn't running in about 15 seconds repeat the process (so you don't overheat the starter). One of my tractors has a cable pull compression release. Same principle; I pull and hold while cranking the starter, I see oil pressure, I let it go (also spring return).

Aftermarket ammeters are cheap, you might want to consider having one installed.

//greg//