Why is my 284 so difficult to start?

[hevans]

My brand new 284 is also very hard to start in cold weather. The air temperature was in the forties today and I still could not get it to start. Lots of white smoke came out of the exhaust pipe, but that's about it.

After reading this thread, I noticed that I have some of the same problems others have. For example, my glow plug bar is not connected to electricity at all. However, there IS a heater in the fuel pump area that the air hose connects to which gets warm to the touch real quickly. (Also, I have no compression release lever because I have a shuttle shift, or so I have been told. Is there one hidden in there somewhere?)

So, what do you think I should do? I store the tractor in my uninsulated barn so if I want to heat the space, I'd probably have to use a salamander heater or something powerful like that. I suppose I could try the heat lamp technique, but I'm not sure that would be warm enough in an uninsulated barn.

Any and all ideas are welcome. I don't HAVE to use the tractor this winter (I have other gas tractors that DO start!), but is it bad to 'store' a tractor like this? I thought engines needed to run once in awhile in order to keep the oil circulated, etc.

 

[TTTTTT]

My brand new 284 is also very hard to start in cold weather. The air temperature was in the forties today and I still could not get it to start. Lots of white smoke came out of the exhaust pipe, but that's about it.

After reading this thread, I noticed that I have some of the same problems others have. For example, my glow plug bar is not connected to electricity at all. However, there IS a heater in the fuel pump area that the air hose connects to which gets warm to the touch real quickly. (Also, I have no compression release lever because I have a shuttle shift, or so I have been told. Is there one hidden in there somewhere?)

So, what do you think I should do? I store the tractor in my uninsulated barn so if I want to heat the space, I'd probably have to use a salamander heater or something powerful like that. I suppose I could try the heat lamp technique, but I'm not sure that would be warm enough in an uninsulated barn.

Any and all ideas are welcome. I don't HAVE to use the tractor this winter (I have other gas tractors that DO start!), but is it bad to 'store' a tractor like this? I thought engines needed to run once in awhile in order to keep the oil circulated, etc.

To help solve the starting problem it may be fairly simple. I would go for the glow plugs and get thoses wired in. I found my manifold heater wasn't up to the task for cold weather. The glow plugs made all the difference. I simply took the wire from the manifold heater and attached it to the GP busbar. It sounds like your other heater is working as you said it gets warm, so that wire seems to carry power to the manifold heater as needed. If you don't want to go through the ignition switch, you could run it right from the battery through a 30amp inline fuse to a convieniently located switch on the dash and then just switch it on for 20-30 sec bursts and start. Just remember to switch it off when not in use or risk burning out the GP's or use a lighted switch as a reminder. The best is to go off the ignition switch where it is spring loaded back to the 'off' position as you release it.

Dave

 

[Diamondpilot]

My brand new 284 is also very hard to start in cold weather. The air temperature was in the forties today and I still could not get it to start. Lots of white smoke came out of the exhaust pipe, but that's about it.

After reading this thread, I noticed that I have some of the same problems others have. For example, my glow plug bar is not connected to electricity at all. However, there IS a heater in the fuel pump area that the air hose connects to which gets warm to the touch real quickly. (Also, I have no compression release lever because I have a shuttle shift, or so I have been told. Is there one hidden in there somewhere?)

So, what do you think I should do? I store the tractor in my uninsulated barn so if I want to heat the space, I'd probably have to use a salamander heater or something powerful like that. I suppose I could try the heat lamp technique, but I'm not sure that would be warm enough in an uninsulated barn.

Any and all ideas are welcome. I don't HAVE to use the tractor this winter (I have other gas tractors that DO start!), but is it bad to 'store' a tractor like this? I thought engines needed to run once in awhile in order to keep the oil circulated, etc.

I am guessing you do not have a Yangdong engine. They have since changed. I have a 2003 Jinma and it starts no matter how cold it is. One cheap thing to do is add a lower radiator hose heater. TSC has them for $25.

You have a intake heater that simply drips fuel and starts a small fire in the intake to warm the air. You could jerry rig the glow plugs by getting 12V to the bus via some sorta switch. They are grounded by the body of the plug like a spark plug.

Are you the same guy from Bloomington asking these questions on CTOA?

The picture shows the package and part #. Just plug it in for 1 hour and the block will be 100 plus deg.

Also TTTTTT has some good suggestions. I would follow what he said then get the heater I posted and it will start like its summer.

Chris

 

[Steve C]

I am guessing you do not have a Yangdong engine. They have since changed. I have a 2003 Jinma and it starts no matter how cold it is. One cheap thing to do is add a lower radiator hose heater. TSC has them for $25.

You have a intake heater that simply drips fuel and starts a small fire in the intake to warm the air. You could jerry rig the glow plugs by getting 12V to the bus via some sorta switch. They are grounded by the body of the plug like a spark plug.

Are you the same guy from Bloomington asking these questions on CTOA?

The picture shows the package and part #. Just plug it in for 1 hour and the block will be 100 plus deg.

Also TTTTTT has some good suggestions. I would follow what he said then get the heater I posted and it will start like its summer.

Chris

I just bought one today at Tractor supply (TSC). It was only $21.99 and it is manufactured in the USA!!!

I did have to go to 3 different TSC stores before I found one in stock. I bought the exact same model number 14600

 

[Diamondpilot]

I just bought one today at Tractor supply (TSC). It was only $21.99 and it is manufactured in the USA!!!

I did have to go to 3 different TSC stores before I found one in stock. I bought the exact same model number 14600

You will be amazed at how well it works.

Just a side note: I have never had a single issue with mine, had it 4 or 5 years. Some have said the area where the cord goes into the unit can get water in it if washing the tractor causing issues. Many take it apart via the 2 little screws and put a dab of RTV. I did just for good measure because I use my power washer about 1 time a month in the summer on it.

Chris

 

[Steve C]

You will be amazed at how well it works.

Just a side note: I have never had a single issue with mine, had it 4 or 5 years. Some have said the area where the cord goes into the unit can get water in it if washing the tractor causing issues. Many take it apart via the 2 little screws and put a dab of RTV. I did just for good measure because I use my power washer about 1 time a month in the summer on it.

Chris

Great! Thanks for the tip. I probably should do the same thing. My tractor will probably not get washed much in the near future because I am not set up for doing that at the moment. But when I do wash it, it will be wiith my 13 HP pressure washer. That thing has a scary amount of power. When I cleaned my barn floor before painting it I found out that it would easily cut into the concrete surface if held to close. The air being pushed by the spray was blowing around 30" long lengths of 2x6 that were laying on the floor 15 feet in front of where the water was hitting the floor. They were flying up into the air and spinning like they were made of styrofoam and they were not even getting wet, just being pushed by the air flow that was being displaced by the water! I gained a new appreciation of what a 4000 psi pressure washer can do.

When I use it to wash the dirt bikes I stand a long way back to avoid getting water where it it isn't supposed to be.

 

[SPIKER]

Ny brother power washed mine for me, and blew out the pump seals. by spraying water between the pump body & flanges/end plates. I had to buy NEW pump (bought seal kit but old pump and new seal kit still didnt work afterward..) SO DONT spray high pressure water onto the Hyd Pump either...

Mark

 

[RonMar]

I got ambitious this weekend and installed the tank type heater on my 284. It is a 1000 watt and circulates water from the rear of the block up thru the head. It brings the head and block from 30F to around 90F in about 20 minutes. I figure about 30 minutes when it is cold out will give me a pretty nice start.

Had to patch a rear innertube also. That was interesting