Why is my Shindawa leaf blower hard starting?

   / Why is my Shindawa leaf blower hard starting? #41  
I’m not expert on the matter but it seems to me like unnecessarily changing filters is worse than leaving it alone. It seems like when you change it would be the most likely time for contamination to get past the filters. I’m not saying not to change filters, but I sure don’t do it just for the heck of it.
 
   / Why is my Shindawa leaf blower hard starting? #42  
I’m not expert on the matter but it seems to me like unnecessarily changing filters is worse than leaving it alone. It seems like when you change it would be the most likely time for contamination to get past the filters. I’m not saying not to change filters, but I sure don’t do it just for the heck of it.

The filter in question is at the end of a rubber tube in the fuel tank. Removing and replacing it seasonally isn't going to cause contamination. To change it one retrieves the filter at the end of the hose and plugs in a new one. Done. Contamination = none.
 
   / Why is my Shindawa leaf blower hard starting?
  • Thread Starter
#43  
I'm the OP on this with an interesting addition to this. All has been good with the correct 50-1 fuel-oil mix and a new primer bulb. Recently, I used some 40-1 gas because it was all I had and after a tankful it became harder starting. Not like before bit noticeably harder. So, I took the plug out and it looked a little oily.

Bottom line: I think the fuel oil mix was more of a factor that I want to admit. I think the primer bulb was in need of replacement but think the 40-1 fuel mix rather than the correct 50-1 mix had a lot to do with the hard starting problem. I was fouling the plug. If this happens to you, get the right mix of fuel.
 
   / Why is my Shindawa leaf blower hard starting? #44  
I'm the OP on this with an interesting addition to this. All has been good with the correct 50-1 fuel-oil mix and a new primer bulb. Recently, I used some 40-1 gas because it was all I had and after a tankful it became harder starting. Not like before bit noticeably harder. So, I took the plug out and it looked a little oily.

Bottom line: I think the fuel oil mix was more of a factor that I want to admit. I think the primer bulb was in need of replacement but think the 40-1 fuel mix rather than the correct 50-1 mix had a lot to do with the hard starting problem. I was fouling the plug. If this happens to you, get the right mix of fuel.

I agree with this about fuel mix having a lot to do with starting issues. Assuming for discussion purposes one has fresh gas, 89 or higher but equal octane level, of either non-ethanol, or ethanol gas, and the incorrect 40:1 rather than 50:1 mixture. These machines are so lean to begin with adding more oil to the mix gas will tend to enrichen the fuel to the point of what you experienced, and foul out an otherwise good plug.

Note: I was told by my Stihl and Echo dealer; (one in the same store), that pumping the primer bulb consistently, or even to the point one would think they might flood the carb is not possible, because excess fuel is dumped back to the tank once the carb is primed.
Here's a good calculator to use to get the right ratio fuel to oil mix:
Gas And Oil Mix Ratio Calculator

Hope this helps!

I'm personally for changing the in-tank filters first if one is encountering start/run issues with these small weed eater and chainsaw carbs. Why? First, it's cheap insurance and they can easily clog with contaminants in the bought gas or in the container one is using. Also they can glaze over with the oil or gas residue, like varnish, and restrict the needed oil from lubing the internal engine parts, causing possible too hot running conditions, and resulting burn up of the engine.
Shaking the fuel in the gas container and in the weed eater or chainsaw before use is also recommended since mix gas can separate out the oil from the gas and cause similar problems as above when it sits over time.
 
   / Why is my Shindawa leaf blower hard starting? #45  
^^No, actually, adding more oil to the mix leans the fuel/air ratio even more. Think of it this way, through the main jet in the carburetor, it will only flow X amount of liquid. If you add more oil molecules, there is less gasoline molecules. During my ice racing days, we would tweak the mix ratios if the weather changed. It was quicker than re-jetting if you were after a small change.
 

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