Why no "Power Beyond" for Kubota tractor?

[Michael In Tennessee]

Since you have a grapple (3rd function), you want to tap in after that. That also makes identifying the proper hoses easier. Excluding the grapple lines, you only have one input and one output hose. The input comes from the FEL valve and the output goes to the next thing in line, which I presume is the power beyond port on the manifold block under the right floorboard. Pretty easy to work with.

As I previously mentioned, I'd not go through the rear remotes. Just add a service loop from your existing 3rd function, to the back of the tractor returning to the manifold block with a set of quick disconnects in the rear.

Please provide more info on the implements. Users manuals, specs, whatever. If the backhoe can output can withstand line pressure, the solution I propose works. If they specifically say you must return to tank instead of power beyond, then an alternate solution is required. I have no clue yet on the trencher as you have provided no information on its function. Perhaps all it needs is to use the rear remotes as currently defined.



Above, Eric does show the proper Kubota OEM hoses and fittings, but it is an expensive way to get to your needed result assuming your implements have their own valves (like the backhoe).

 

[WranglerX]

I know this is almost purely Kabota.... But have same issues with my MF GC 1715 with no PB..... Sales brochure said PB was available and give part number... Dealer and corporate are in the dark!......

Dale

 

[Michael In Tennessee]

I know this is almost purely Kabota.... But have same issues with my MF GC 1715 with no PB..... Sales brochure said PB was available and give part number... Dealer and corporate are in the dark!......

Dale

Post a new thread and supply pictures of FEL valve and whatever else you think is important.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Cat, if the L tractor diagram you posted is the one for your tractor; I think I have it figured out. If not, don't bother reading the rest of this. and get the right WSM. The rear remotes are factory installed items and the return to tank is incorporated in the valve stack that operates them. You need to find out if one is a detent type. If not that is why all the discussion about bungee cord to keep the valve open.

First check to see if one is detent type and use that and you are home clear just keep it in detent one feeding the outlet providing power on that circuit. The outlet next to it is the return. Your owners manual or the WSM should have a diagram showing the outlets and which ones are for what.

If you do not have a remote w/detent you will have to resort to the bungee cord idea or consider an alternate valve piping arrangement.

Is there a brand name and part number on the remote valves?

I am surprised Messicks was not of help, they weigh in often when things get bogged down. Now that you know better how to discuss this I would try their service manager again. Make sure you have the model of your tractor and its age. Mention that the closest dealers shop has been of no help as why you are contacting them. Explain you have a two hose BH you are trying to connect. Also indicate you will buy any parts you need from them. They will know if one of the valves has one or more detent positions. Actually you should be able to tell as the lever will stay in one position other than center. At least get the WSM if you do not have one. Get a digital copy if they have them.

Feel free to contact me as personal in the My Home section of the Forum page.

Ron

 

[WranglerX]

Post a new thread and supply pictures of FEL valve and whatever else you think is important.

Already asked some questions in MF section and here in Hydraulics and the seems to be a fog or lack of knowledge....

UPDATE...

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/409967-help-mf-gc-1705-1720-a.html

Dale

 

[Cat_Driver]

Cat, if the L tractor diagram you posted is the one for your tractor; I think I have it figured out. If not, don't bother reading the rest of this. and get the right WSM. The rear remotes are factory installed items and the return to tank is incorporated in the valve stack that operates them. You need to find out if one is a detent type. If not that is why all the discussion about bungee cord to keep the valve open.

First check to see if one is detent type and use that and you are home clear just keep it in detent one feeding the outlet providing power on that circuit. The outlet next to it is the return. Your owners manual or the WSM should have a diagram showing the outlets and which ones are for what.

If you do not have a remote w/detent you will have to resort to the bungee cord idea or consider an alternate valve piping arrangement.

Is there a brand name and part number on the remote valves?

I am surprised Messicks was not of help, they weigh in often when things get bogged down. Now that you know better how to discuss this I would try their service manager again. Make sure you have the model of your tractor and its age. Mention that the closest dealers shop has been of no help as why you are contacting them. Explain you have a two hose BH you are trying to connect. Also indicate you will buy any parts you need from them. They will know if one of the valves has one or more detent positions. Actually you should be able to tell as the lever will stay in one position other than center. At least get the WSM if you do not have one. Get a digital copy if they have them.

Feel free to contact me as personal in the My Home section of the Forum page.

Ron

Sorry all for the long delay, but I've exhausted all my options with trying to get "professional" help. Seems with a great economy, everyone is too busy to care about customers any more. After several dealers not even returning phone calls after several calls. Then I spent time talking to a mobile mechanic who talked a pretty good line until he never showed up for his appointment. I've never experienced suck pathetic service from many businesses as to knowledge and even common courtesy.

So as of this date I purchased a external Prince PTO hydraulic pump and am in the middle of trying to mke that work.

Funny how I got better and more professsional help here than in sever businesses who job it is to cater to customers.

Thanks all, you helpd me from making some huge mistakes.

 

[Cat_Driver]

Are those pictures of the hydraulic lines going to/from your loader? If so, can you post a picture of where the lines go into the valve?

Aaron Z

Aaron I tried putting in a T there and run the backhoe and it was a fail. I don't know what those were for because they wouldn't even move the backhoe arm. I gave in and bought an external hydraulic PTO.

 

[Cat_Driver]

Michael you are AMAZING, but because the tractor has a cab following the hoses or even trying to find ports is miserable.
I tried using a T on two side by side hoses expecting one to be IN and the outher OUT, but they didn't even budge the backhoe.

Here's one thing that was different learning from you guys here.
I plugged into the rear remotes AGAIN, but this time I had teh wife only
engage the remote 3/4 of the way NOT all the way open and that seemed to work better
but still froze the system until I reversed the remote and then engaged again.

The remote works fine on grader box, and other rear equipment that need the remotes so the
remotes are good, just not good for a backhow.

I threw in the towel and bought a Prince PTO hydraulic PTO and will get some hoses
converted.

Wish me luck and I owe you a beer.

 

[aczlan]

Aaron I tried putting in a T there and run the backhoe and it was a fail. I don't know what those were for because they wouldn't even move the backhoe arm. I gave in and bought an external hydraulic PTO.

Ah, sorry to hear that you have had such bad luck. Putting a tee in won't work as it's an open center hydraulic system, fluid can flow in a loop from one valve to the next as long as you aren't moving the valves.
In your picture, one line is probably the output from pump to the loader valve, the other is probably the output from the loader valve going back to the 3 point hitch and/or your rear remote(s).
If you disconnect the line that has the fluid leaving the loader valve and going to the 3 point, you can put your backhoe lines there (loader valve out to backhoe valve in. Backhoe valve out to 3 point in).
That way the fluid flows from the pump to the loader valve, to the backhoe valve, to the rear remote (if equipped), to the 3 point valve, to the transmission sump.
If you put a tee in there, it will take the easier of the two paths every time and you will not accomplish any work.

Aaron Z

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Sorry to hear you gave up on your L system. There is a simple solution w/o buying a bunch of new stuff. K puts BHs on the Ls all the time. Any reputable K shop knows how to do that chore as the BHs are dealer installed usually unless special ordered. Wish I was closer; pay my way down there and we can figure it out. Do you now have the right manual or decided the one you have is the right one. In hind sight I wish I had thought to tell you to get the K regional rep in the act. I am sure they have a tech bulletin for dealers to show how to do it right. The bungee cord is not the factory solution.

I did look at the diagram again, alas non of the three valves have a detent position. On most valves a detent can be retrofitted into a valve. You would probably have to go to the valve manufacturer for that info and parts. K is probably no help because they want to sell their BH. To adapt the AM BH it would need to have a valve assembly that is or can be made a power beyond valve. Then the connection would entail 3 hoses.

All too late now. But others contemplating this procedure may be interested. Bottom line: have a remote valve that has a detentm or get the BH w/a PB valve system.

Ron