Why would I want or not want a "float" on a rear remote?

[RickB]

I’m certain you will never regret the decision. Thank you for posting your decision.

 

[FTG-05]

I'm the OP on this and went in thinking no float, no way, never and have been educated sufficiently to get one float. Thank you all.

In these kinds of threads there's always two ways to go:

- Listen to LD1

OR

- Fork up

Pretty simple. Choice be yours.

 

[Rmart30]

"Float is good if you want your implement to "follow the ground."

Yes and while your whole implement will "float" if you put it in the full down position. This however allows the front of your rotary cutter, box scraper etc. to dig in. Float in your top-link allows you to keep the front at the desired position allowing it to rotate on your lower lift pins allowing the rear wheel on a rotary cutter to stay on the ground. .

Now thats one explanation and scenario I hadnt thought of where I could see float being useful to me.

 

[CobyRupert]

Incorrect look at any no-till drill or corn planter, single action cylinder on the travel wheels,
look at a hay tedder with lift arms and a flex frame, single action cylinders,
any single action cylinder will work much better with a valve in float when not being extended.
if you have a back blade with hydraulic tilt float will let the blade float and stay in ground contact when plowing snow,
many older sickle bar mowers had a single action cylinder.
And as others have mentioned if you ever get a hydraulic top link float will handy some times.

That's exactly why I added a 2nd SCV to my tractor (($800+ kit after the fact, should of ordered tractor with it!) so that I could have rotate and tilt on the rear blade for plowing snow on a uneven surface.
Laughs on me because instead of putting "Tilt' cylinder in float, I could of just as easily eliminated the cylinder altogether and let it mechanically float/rotate. (Still nice to have hydraulic tilt incase I want to grade a ditch.)