Will a DISK do me what I need??
- Thread starter Sully2
- Start date
- Views: 7765
Highbeam
Super Member
If you sink the subsoiler in all the way and you can't pull it with your tractor then why not try it shallower? I'm thinking that you should have been able to pull the ripper through a couple of inches deep no? You just bit off more than the 303 could chew. Round and round with the subsoiler a few inches deep and then go a little deeper.
Just the fact that you were able to sink that subsoiler tells me that your aren't dealing with concrete.
Sounds like you really want a disc. With enough weight and enough passes it may do the job. If you are truly cheap though then get your subsoiler back and try to rip it shallower.
Just the fact that you were able to sink that subsoiler tells me that your aren't dealing with concrete.
Sounds like you really want a disc. With enough weight and enough passes it may do the job. If you are truly cheap though then get your subsoiler back and try to rip it shallower.
beenthere
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Aug 16, 2001
- Messages
- 18,608
- Location
- Southern Wisconsin, USA
- Tractor
- JD_4x2_Gator, JD_4300, JD_425, JD_455 AWS, added JD_455, JD_110, JD_X485(sold)
Sully2
You asked the question (see the title of this thread) and we tried to help and tried again.
But you have my permission to go ahead and buy the disk, and it won't hurt my feelings one bit. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
I only wonder why you asked the question? /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Have a good day.
You asked the question (see the title of this thread) and we tried to help and tried again.
But you have my permission to go ahead and buy the disk, and it won't hurt my feelings one bit. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
I only wonder why you asked the question? /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Have a good day.
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Sully2
You asked the question (see the title of this thread) and we tried to help and tried again.
But you have my permission to go ahead and buy the disk, and it won't hurt my feelings one bit. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
I only wonder why you asked the question? /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Have a good day. )</font>
The REASON was at attempt to compare "performance" of a set of disks as compared to a rear roto tiller on bare hard ( semi hard..whatever) ground.
BTW..the poster that stated he was going too fast...he told me that when he looked at the speedomotor on his Ford..it said "1/6th" MPH...ahh..that aint "too fast"??
I have a wonderful..dirt gobbeling walk behind tiller ( that aint worth jack squat..STARTING OFF on the bare hard ground)..so I can do all my "final prep work" with that thing ( Hence the reason why small areas..one at a time. If I attempted to do the whole place at once..they'd find me dead of a heart attack back in the woods somewhere..lol) BUT..I need a impliment to chop roots ( grass; BIG weeds at times; small tree roots..and these dammed morning glorys...geeze!) and chop the upper ..about..4 inches of soil..before I ran the "dirt eating rear tine tiller" around and around.
And lets dont factor out COST either. I can buy what I think ( and am told is) a good set of disks for "around $600"..where as ( Im told again) a POS rear tiller will be $1200 AND UP
You asked the question (see the title of this thread) and we tried to help and tried again.
But you have my permission to go ahead and buy the disk, and it won't hurt my feelings one bit. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
I only wonder why you asked the question? /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Have a good day. )</font>
The REASON was at attempt to compare "performance" of a set of disks as compared to a rear roto tiller on bare hard ( semi hard..whatever) ground.
BTW..the poster that stated he was going too fast...he told me that when he looked at the speedomotor on his Ford..it said "1/6th" MPH...ahh..that aint "too fast"??
I have a wonderful..dirt gobbeling walk behind tiller ( that aint worth jack squat..STARTING OFF on the bare hard ground)..so I can do all my "final prep work" with that thing ( Hence the reason why small areas..one at a time. If I attempted to do the whole place at once..they'd find me dead of a heart attack back in the woods somewhere..lol) BUT..I need a impliment to chop roots ( grass; BIG weeds at times; small tree roots..and these dammed morning glorys...geeze!) and chop the upper ..about..4 inches of soil..before I ran the "dirt eating rear tine tiller" around and around.
And lets dont factor out COST either. I can buy what I think ( and am told is) a good set of disks for "around $600"..where as ( Im told again) a POS rear tiller will be $1200 AND UP
wushaw
Elite Member
I'm sure you have looked and priced both frame styles of disk harrows, the box and angle with the angle being the lowest priced and the easiest to deform and non-adjustable in most cases.
I would look at the adjustable box frame models just for more versitility and thaey also weigh more.
I will say I don't have any personal experience with either but as soon as I get all my parts I will with a homebuilt/copied with a twist adjustable box frame style.
I will be using serrated disk on both ft. and back to start out with to see if I like the results.
In conclusion you will never know if it will work for ya if you don't give it a whirl.
I would look at the adjustable box frame models just for more versitility and thaey also weigh more.
I will say I don't have any personal experience with either but as soon as I get all my parts I will with a homebuilt/copied with a twist adjustable box frame style.
I will be using serrated disk on both ft. and back to start out with to see if I like the results.
In conclusion you will never know if it will work for ya if you don't give it a whirl.
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I'm sure you have looked and priced both frame styles of disk harrows, the box and angle with the angle being the lowest priced and the easiest to deform and non-adjustable in most cases.
I would look at the adjustable box frame models just for more versitility and thaey also weigh more.
I will say I don't have any personal experience with either but as soon as I get all my parts I will with a homebuilt/copied with a twist adjustable box frame style.
I will be using serrated disk on both ft. and back to start out with to see if I like the results.
In conclusion you will never know if it will work for ya if you don't give it a whirl. )</font>
The only one Ive really looked over so far..is a "angle iron" model instead of box member. Front disk serrated and non-adjustable....rear set is smooth and IS adjustable. Mainly "glanced" at this model because of $$$. These arent tools I'll be usng every day or anything...Im not about to go into business doing this stuff... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I also look at if they didnt have a usage..a purpose..no one would be making the darned things. I see disks' post hole augers..etc..etc made for BX series ( sub compact) tractors...if they do what they are designed to do for those models...Im sure I can get "it" to work on mine??
Might wind up selling my walk behind and just getting a tiller for my B3030..?...maybe a 41/2 to 5 ft model...and then just get someone to break ground for me when I need it done???
I would look at the adjustable box frame models just for more versitility and thaey also weigh more.
I will say I don't have any personal experience with either but as soon as I get all my parts I will with a homebuilt/copied with a twist adjustable box frame style.
I will be using serrated disk on both ft. and back to start out with to see if I like the results.
In conclusion you will never know if it will work for ya if you don't give it a whirl. )</font>
The only one Ive really looked over so far..is a "angle iron" model instead of box member. Front disk serrated and non-adjustable....rear set is smooth and IS adjustable. Mainly "glanced" at this model because of $$$. These arent tools I'll be usng every day or anything...Im not about to go into business doing this stuff... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I also look at if they didnt have a usage..a purpose..no one would be making the darned things. I see disks' post hole augers..etc..etc made for BX series ( sub compact) tractors...if they do what they are designed to do for those models...Im sure I can get "it" to work on mine??
Might wind up selling my walk behind and just getting a tiller for my B3030..?...maybe a 41/2 to 5 ft model...and then just get someone to break ground for me when I need it done???
N80
Super Member
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Sully, try a boxblade with the scarifiers all the way down. )</font>
I agree. I'm currently doing that myself in very hard clay soil. I considered a disk too, but eventually figured that it would not penetrate sufficiently even with weight and a 45hp tractor.
I've been very successful with the box blade. I'm guessing but I'd say I'm getting a good 4-5" of penetration and it turns the soil fairly well too. The nice thing about the box blade is that it has so many other uses as well. So, more bang for the buck.
Several observations:
1) It sounds like your tractor may be too small for the job you have set for it.
2) The moisture in the soil makes a big difference, at least where I am. When really dry it is very much like concrete. When too wet it is sticky and goo-y. When just right, the BB turns it over quite easily.
3) If you are really interested in a disc, get one. If it doesn't work, sell it. You can probably get most of your money back.
Finally, it is my understanding that a disc is primarily for breaking up soil that has been plowed or turned over and not for breaking up 'virigin' dirt. Is that correct?
I agree. I'm currently doing that myself in very hard clay soil. I considered a disk too, but eventually figured that it would not penetrate sufficiently even with weight and a 45hp tractor.
I've been very successful with the box blade. I'm guessing but I'd say I'm getting a good 4-5" of penetration and it turns the soil fairly well too. The nice thing about the box blade is that it has so many other uses as well. So, more bang for the buck.
Several observations:
1) It sounds like your tractor may be too small for the job you have set for it.
2) The moisture in the soil makes a big difference, at least where I am. When really dry it is very much like concrete. When too wet it is sticky and goo-y. When just right, the BB turns it over quite easily.
3) If you are really interested in a disc, get one. If it doesn't work, sell it. You can probably get most of your money back.
Finally, it is my understanding that a disc is primarily for breaking up soil that has been plowed or turned over and not for breaking up 'virigin' dirt. Is that correct?
K
kingoflawns
Guest
We would use a cat 277 track machine with hydraulic front rototiller to bust that up, once over would set you up nice.
Similar threads
Tiller
Disk vs tiller revisited
