Winch Modifications

   / Winch Modifications #61  
I'm looking for the larger fittings/connectors. I hope this isn't going to be a real pain trying to find some that fit and costing me an arm and leg. I will have 3 attachments that will use the larger fittings.

Thanks

I used the standard 1/2" connectors from Tractor Supply. They have ball poppets instead of the tapered ones that PT uses, but they work fine. The flow ratings may be different, but I haven't noticed any problems.
 
   / Winch Modifications #62  
Thanks everyone, I found a parker store and bought'em from them. Reasonable price and close to home. They had exactly what I wanted and they are exactly the same as the Italian jobs on there or at least in size, Parker 6600 series. But I think I might buy my hoses from Tractor Supply they cost less then Parkers but I will see.
 
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   / Winch Modifications
  • Thread Starter
#63  
I am trying to think how I can get around the no freewheeling with the PT winch. As I mentioned I made a coupling so the fluid could circulate between the hydraulic connections on the winch. I hoped this would allow freewheeling. It does if free wheel is defined as about 100 pounds of force on the cable to make it move. Way too much for my 61 year old body. I was wondering if I could shorten the run (I have about 20 feet of hose that the hydraulic fluid goes through) to make it move easier. Also does the motor need break in. If I ran it for an hour or what ever someone suggest would it be easier to turn? Any comments (even if funny) will be appreciated.
 
   / Winch Modifications #64  
Depending upon what you are trying to do, you could use that setup and attach the end to something and move the PT away to unwind the winch. Not the best solution but it will work some of the time. If you reverse the flow, it will unwind?

Ken
 
   / Winch Modifications
  • Thread Starter
#65  
Depending upon what you are trying to do, you could use that setup and attach the end to something and move the PT away to unwind the winch. Not the best solution but it will work some of the time. If you reverse the flow, it will unwind?

Ken

Yes, reversing the flow will unwind it. If I could move the PT, then I would not need the winch, most of my use is getting the PT unstuck. I usually tie a cord to the reverse lever, pull on the cord and pull on the cable at the same time to unreel it. Not an ideal procedure.
 
   / Winch Modifications #66  
Would a motor spool valve do you any good? They allow a hydraulic motor to freespool once the flow is turned off. You could never use the winch to hold anything, however, I think.
 
   / Winch Modifications #67  
Quote: "If I could move the PT, then I would not need the winch, most of my use is getting the PT unstuck."

That is why i said not the best solution but it would work some of the time. :)

Moss - doesn't the motor spool valve do teh same thing as hooking the two hoeses together? The force Bob has to use to pull out the cable is not great compared to what the motor normally sees.

Ken
 
   / Winch Modifications #68  
Quote: "If I could move the PT, then I would not need the winch, most of my use is getting the PT unstuck."

That is why i said not the best solution but it would work some of the time. :)

Moss - doesn't the motor spool valve do teh same thing as hooking the two hoeses together? The force Bob has to use to pull out the cable is not great compared to what the motor normally sees.

Ken

Yeah, that slipped by me. I think he's screwed, to put it crudely. Unless he can come up with a clutch to disengage the hydraulic motor from the winch spool, he will always have the internal resistance of the motor and fluid in the circuit. Unless somewhere in his extension hoses and connectors there is a restriction. I suppose he could put a very short jumper hose on the motor itself and see if that makes it easier to pull, just to see if there is a restriction in his long extensions and connectors.
 
   / Winch Modifications
  • Thread Starter
#69  
I just made a short jumper hose (about 18 inches). This seems to work a lot better. I did not pull it far, about 5 feet, but it was not the exhausting effort it took before (a rough guess of less than 50 pounds). Now the question is should I run the motor in?
 
   / Winch Modifications
  • Thread Starter
#70  
Quote: "If I could move the PT, then I would not need the winch, most of my use is getting the PT unstuck."

That is why i said not the best solution but it would work some of the time. :)

Ken

Ken, sorry my reply was so unfriendly even thought yours was friendly. Yes, I have used your method at times and it does help.
 
   / Winch Modifications #71  
Could you not connect a short 3/4 hose across the motor with a needle valve in the middle to shut off the flow when using the power mode. Just open the valve to max to free wheel.

How about a wireless remote control valve to power unwind and wind. No free wheeling necessary.
 
   / Winch Modifications
  • Thread Starter
#72  
Could you not connect a short 3/4 hose across the motor with a needle valve in the middle to shut off the flow when using the power mode. Just open the valve to max to free wheel.

How about a wireless remote control valve to power unwind and wind. No free wheeling necessary.

The 422 does not have electric solenoids on the valves. Looks like this would be more modification that I want to do, but perhaps as a last resort.

The needle valve sounds like a good idea.

J_J will the motor be easier to move if I break it in? It has maybe 30 minutes of operation on it now at most.
 
   / Winch Modifications #73  
   / Winch Modifications #74  
Yes, the more you use a hyd motor, over time some the fluid will bypass internally.
 
   / Winch Modifications
  • Thread Starter
#75  
Yes, the more you use a hyd motor, over time some the fluid will bypass internally.

Thanks JJ. Since I am bypassing it externally, then internal bypass will not be of much help (I think, correct me if I am wrong). I am thinking it's like a new engine, very hard to turn over, but once it's broken in it spins much more freely. I think you have partially answered the question, just not absolutely sure. Any idea for break in hours (1/2, 10, 1000). I probably just need to pull the cable off and let it run for an hour and see if I notice a difference. Obviously I don't want to put a 1000 hours on the machine to break in the winch.

I pulled on it today with the short hose bypass. It was still a lot of work, but maybe doable.
 
   / Winch Modifications #76  
I would be tempted to try that first valve i mentioned. That could be a permanent setup on the winch. You would only need a Tee on the supply side of the winch and a short hose between that Tee and the valve. The valve connected to the return of the winch. Then just your normal hoses from the supply Tee and the valve to the PT. Depending upon the sizes of the hoses, it could be less than $100.

Ken
 
   / Winch Modifications
  • Thread Starter
#77  
.

How about a wireless remote control valve to power unwind and wind. No free wheeling necessary.

J_J, I got to thinking more about your wireless remote above. Even having a manual valve for wind and unwind at the winch would be a big help. The electric would be even better. I will take a serious look at this.
 
   / Winch Modifications #78  
There are some inexpensive wireless contactors used for ATV winches that could easily power a solenoid valve.

Ken
 
   / Winch Modifications
  • Thread Starter
#80  

Those wireless remotes are very reasonable.

On the valve, if the center is completely open, then the winch will freewheel when centered. Would it be better to have the winch locked and the pressure line returned to tank. I believe this is called a tandem center. Also the hoses in this system are 1/4 inch. I think the valve when be cheaper in it was 1/4 inch. Thanks again for your efforts. It may be time for me to call surplus center.
 

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