Winch Modifications

[J_J]

Could you not connect a short 3/4 hose across the motor with a needle valve in the middle to shut off the flow when using the power mode. Just open the valve to max to free wheel.

How about a wireless remote control valve to power unwind and wind. No free wheeling necessary.

 

[BobRip]

Could you not connect a short 3/4 hose across the motor with a needle valve in the middle to shut off the flow when using the power mode. Just open the valve to max to free wheel.

How about a wireless remote control valve to power unwind and wind. No free wheeling necessary.

The 422 does not have electric solenoids on the valves. Looks like this would be more modification that I want to do, but perhaps as a last resort.

The needle valve sounds like a good idea.

J_J will the motor be easier to move if I break it in? It has maybe 30 minutes of operation on it now at most.

 

[SpringHollow]

Hi Bob,

No worries.

Perhaps you could use something like this on the return - one connection to the tank and the other to a small short circuit that is Teed into the supply - effectively acting like a 3-way ball valve.

Surplus Center - 1/2" NPT 20 GPM PRINCE SELECTOR VALVE

Here's a cheaper one but it is only 2000 psi:
Surplus Center - SAE 12 24 GPM GRESEN SELECTOR VALVE

Or you could use two ball valves like these:
Surplus Center - 1/2" NPT CARBON STEEL 7250 PSI BALL VALVE

Ken

 

[J_J]

Yes, the more you use a hyd motor, over time some the fluid will bypass internally.

 

[BobRip]

Yes, the more you use a hyd motor, over time some the fluid will bypass internally.

Thanks JJ. Since I am bypassing it externally, then internal bypass will not be of much help (I think, correct me if I am wrong). I am thinking it's like a new engine, very hard to turn over, but once it's broken in it spins much more freely. I think you have partially answered the question, just not absolutely sure. Any idea for break in hours (1/2, 10, 1000). I probably just need to pull the cable off and let it run for an hour and see if I notice a difference. Obviously I don't want to put a 1000 hours on the machine to break in the winch.

I pulled on it today with the short hose bypass. It was still a lot of work, but maybe doable.

 

[SpringHollow]

I would be tempted to try that first valve i mentioned. That could be a permanent setup on the winch. You would only need a Tee on the supply side of the winch and a short hose between that Tee and the valve. The valve connected to the return of the winch. Then just your normal hoses from the supply Tee and the valve to the PT. Depending upon the sizes of the hoses, it could be less than $100.

Ken

 

[BobRip]

.

How about a wireless remote control valve to power unwind and wind. No free wheeling necessary.

J_J, I got to thinking more about your wireless remote above. Even having a manual valve for wind and unwind at the winch would be a big help. The electric would be even better. I will take a serious look at this.

 

[SpringHollow]

There are some inexpensive wireless contactors used for ATV winches that could easily power a solenoid valve.

Ken

 

[J_J]

Bob,

Look at this.

WIRELESS WINCH REMOTE CONTROL SWITCH atv hydraulic utv - eBay (item 230566555974 end time Dec-30-10 17:09:06 PST)

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-7774&catname=hydraulic

 

[BobRip]

Bob,

Look at this.

WIRELESS WINCH REMOTE CONTROL SWITCH atv hydraulic utv - eBay (item 230566555974 end time Dec-30-10 17:09:06 PST)

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-7774&catname=hydraulic

Those wireless remotes are very reasonable.

On the valve, if the center is completely open, then the winch will freewheel when centered. Would it be better to have the winch locked and the pressure line returned to tank. I believe this is called a tandem center. Also the hoses in this system are 1/4 inch. I think the valve when be cheaper in it was 1/4 inch. Thanks again for your efforts. It may be time for me to call surplus center.