Window headers, Insulation-live and learn

[JimR]

</font><font color="blueclass=small">( I still don't consider that typical either. Normally you have a trimmer which sits under the header and extends to the mud sill plate and then a king stud that goes from the top of the header down to the mud sill attached with the trimmer. In your picture, your king and trimmer do neither but rather stop at the window plate. Your header setup does however work as long as there are cripples directly under the 2X coming down from the header. It's not necessarily wrong, just different. )</font>

My 2x4's go all the way to the sill plate. There is a half wall and it sits on a concrete foundation. Here is a better picture of the type of framing I have out of a book on house construction.

 

[Hound]

Typically I believe headers are done like the attached pic. They take the load and transfer it around the opening and pass it down to the foundation. Nice to see another TDP TDP member here /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[EddieWalker]

The diagram says it all, except for one little issue.

I like to use half inch plywood when building my headers. I've seen foam, sheetrock and air used. The plywood really makes a huge difference in strength.

On small spans, such as doors and small windows on single story buildings, this isn't as important. But on a window over three feet and a second story, it really makes a difference.

Four to five foot spans get 2x8's and five to ten feet get 2x10's. Anything over ten feet, and I use 2x12's.


Whats the inside of that window look like?

Eddie

 

[ByronBob]

Jeez,

You guys scared the heck out of me and I went back and looked at my pictures of how my house was built. My headers are done correctly, but during the home build I was there daily evaluating the work. I did find some issues which got corrected but luckly it wasn't anything beyond repair the following am.

 

[PBinWA]

The attached scan is from the Journal of Light Construction Field Guide for Residential Construction. I strongly recommend this book to anyone who is going to be getting some building done and wants to check on the people doing the work to see if they are doing it properly.

The JLC Field guide and articles can be found here:
Journal of Light Construction

I think I can post this picture. If not just tell me and I'll take it down.

Header Types Picture

 

[KennedyDiesel]

Just as an update, I contacted the builder and bldg suply Co. The supply Co listened, but offered no solution. When I approached the builder in person I reported that I haven't found anybody that agreed that these were correct. The reply was that I needed to ask a "pole building engineer" and they would accept this style "header". I don't have a pole bldg, I have a studwall bldg. I presented the fact that I had a bid for $1150 to remove the steel, fix the headers and reinstall the steel. He said that's "ridiculous" and walked away.

Wisconsin Frame Builders Assoc indicated that this was NOT the proper way to do it, BUT they are not a "policing" organization. Sounds like they just collect dues and have social events and that being a member does little more than advertise/boost credentials.


So, at this point I am moving fwd with the repairs and resetting of the south windows. We'll see what we find when we open the walls. The end result will be that it will be done properly one way or another.


Now the next thing is what do I do about proving them wrong and revealing the injustice to others? It's not about the money, it's the principle and I'm pretty PO'd at this point. Instead of them simply making it right I was just brushed off. My initial thoughts are to develop a web page documenting the facts and details, and of course pump it hard on the search engines. The hope is that others will not make the mistakes that I have. Just need to make sure I don't do something I can be sued for...

 

[dmccarty]

In my area builders like to put up signs for advertising and to direct subs and suppliers. You could get signs that match your builders sign in size with text something like, "Builds XXXXXX Buildings."

Where you see his sign you plant your sign. Your sign will be missing quickly but if you plant it on a Friday or Saturday evening plenty of people will see it.

I also would complain to the state. At least the Better Business organizations. I still can't believe that it passed code.....

Other than that you have to take him to court. For the money you are talking about I would think it would be small claims court. Drag him in to court and he is likely to pay up since its going to cost him to be there and not working....

Later,
Dan

 

[KennedyDiesel]

I have his signs/placards from the building. I was thinking of putting out on the road by us, but we aren't on high traffic, definitely rural.

I have sent the pics to another company to check with their engineering. If this style is condemned, then I'll probably build a web site. There is also only a single top plate on the wall. Not sure if a double is necessary, but I've been told a double is the way to go. These guys built 6' wall sections with one stud extending high (double stud) and then used this to align the truss so there is no linking the bays across the top if memory serves...

 

[MMM]

Are you saying there's one board (plate, not top plate) on top the stud or 2(top plate)? With no top plate I don't see how it (plate) is tied together where one plate stops and another starts. Is it scabbed together underneath between studs? Really weak. If I remember correctly we wouldn't butt a top plate closer than 4' to plate joint below. I'm no expert on steel buildings, but have built many tract and custom homes. Many with lath for steel roof. None of which resemble what you have.

 

[MMM]

I'll also add that the header should also have a nailer underneath to prevent twist and be sandwiched with plywood or at least OSB as Eddie suggested.