Window motor for chute ?

[doxford jim]

Scooby074

Thanks for your comments.
I looked at the link you posted and note that there is a drain on the casing which, I believe, means a third hydraulic hose or drain back to the hydraulic oil tank. Someone please correct me if I am wrong on that. I am trying to make it as simple as possible with what I have in mind. I am sure it can be done without the third hose at the drain.
Comments welcome as I am learning as I go along.
Cheers
jim

 

[Scooby074]

Scooby074

Thanks for your comments.
I looked at the link you posted and note that there is a drain on the casing which, I believe, means a third hydraulic hose or drain back to the hydraulic oil tank. Someone please correct me if I am wrong on that. I am trying to make it as simple as possible with what I have in mind. I am sure it can be done without the third hose at the drain.
Comments welcome as I am learning as I go along.
Cheers
jim

Case drains are not essential in this case IMHO given the very intermittent operation and low inertia of a chute rotator. The shaft seat on those pro point (more accurately, Dynamic, BMRS series) motors are rated at over 1800psi for slow speed, intermittent operation. You'd have to see return to tank pressures over 1800 to begin to damage the seal. In other words, i wouldnt worry.

 

[doxford jim]

Case drains are not essential in this case IMHO given the very intermittent operation and low inertia of a chute rotator. The shaft seat on those pro point (more accurately, Dynamic, BMRS series) motors are rated at over 1800psi for slow speed, intermittent operation. You'd have to see return to tank pressures over 1800 to begin to damage the seal. In other words, i wouldnt worry.

Then, from what you say, the motor could be used without a drain - hhhm. Maybe a reducing bushing and a pet cock to drain off any accumulated oil. As you say the operation would be very intermittent so the oil leakage would not be too bad.

Thanks

 

[Scooby074]

Then, from what you say, the motor could be used without a drain - hhhm. Maybe a reducing bushing and a pet cock to drain off any accumulated oil. As you say the operation would be very intermittent so the oil leakage would not be too bad.

Thanks

I wouldnt even go as far as a petcock. Given the slow speeds and intermittent ops, internal leakage should take care of it.

Case drains are nice for seal life and required for many motors, but this is a bit of a special case. Anyways, even if you pop a seal, I think PA offers a complete seal kit for those motors for $29

 

[bumperm]

bumper,

Thanks for the link. I am not sure but doesn't that motor require a separate return from the pump to the hydraulic tank ?
I found this motor in Canada that doesn't seem to need a separate return. I assume that the fluid goes both ways through either hose when connected to the remote on the tractor?

2.8 cu. in. 2-Bolt Hydraulic Gerotor Motor | Princess Auto

The motor is more expensive than Surplus Centre but is available in Canada for more money.
As I envisage the setup would be the motor mounted to a bracket with the motor outlet shaft in line with the mechanical shaft of the blower, connected with the hose coupling to allow for minor misalignment. Two short (4ft) hydraulic hoses connect the remote on the tractor to the pump - one disconnect to one port - both ports being connected. This should allow flow to and from the pump via the spool valve on the tractor remote. A flow restrictor or smaller hose would help reduce speed of motor. This would be a simple and weather proof set up - I think. It would use the tractor hydraulic oil from the main tank, thereby being warmish and able to do it's job.

I am not too much involved with hydraulic systems so maybe my thoughts are won't pan out.
Would appreciate comments regarding what I have in mind - good or bad.
Thanks for your interest.
jim

Jim,

No, both motors hook up to a regular center off spool valve, just like a hydraulic cylinder would. One motor port gets pressure and the other is return in one direction, ports reverse function for other direction. My tractor uses the curl function on the joystick for the chute rotation motor (front loader is removed). Blower lift is also on the joystick and chute deflection is via a 3rd function valve with buttons on the joystick.

 

[finn lander]

I posted this regarding my electric chute deflector. It is still working well:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/snow-removal/230073-electric-chute-deflector-kubota-b3030.html?highlight=deflector

Up here in calumet. I have enjoyed following your posts and videos. Really interested in this chute set up. First year with cab tractor and front blower.

 

[doxford jim]

Thanks guys, I was under the impression that the drain connection was needed. I understand now that the drain connection is for shaft leakage etc. and doesn't need to be connected for motor operation. Sure makes for a much easier installation and makes it very doable.
Gotta go and do some shopping

Thanks for your help (getting old sux big time )

jim

 

[doxford jim]

Just went and priced material on Princess Auto site - wow, they are very reasonable. I think everything except the motor would be around $100 plus cost of hydraulic motor. So for around $250 should supply all the parts needed.
Thanks for all your help guys - no having to go through a dealer

 

[finn lander]

Just went and priced material on Princess Auto site - wow, they are very reasonable. I think everything except the motor would be around $100 plus cost of hydraulic motor. So for around $250 should supply all the parts needed.
Thanks for all your help guys - no having to go through a dealer

I will be installing an actuator for chute deflection tomorrow. I bought material from northern tool. Also will try to use the programmable three position switch. The actuator said weather resistant, not weather proof. I will mount upside down to prevent water issues.