Winter Driving Tips
- Thread starter My Gym
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cat fever
Elite Member
I have been actively practicing your last step since I could drive.
However, it is very good advice for a new snow driver.
Step 3 I would use salt bags, then if needed you can throw some out to get unstuck.
RalphVa
Super Member
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- Charlottesville, VA, USA
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- JD 2025R, previously Gravely 5650 & JD 4010 & JD 1025R
When rear end goes left, steer left. When rear end goes right, steer right.
Would help to have 4wd and stick shift. Automatics are bad in snow/ice. If he got a stick shift, learn to double clutch it for very smooth downshifts. They can save you when slowing down in the snow. Cannot smoothly downshift an auto.
Put 4 to 6 bags of sand in the back, like others have suggested. Pickups are back for driving in snow or ice without weight in the rear.
Big vehicles are this are absolutely scary in snow or ice. They'll seemingly have good traction and then suddenly break into a skid. Drove our church van, an F350 "Econoline". It would do this. I absolutely would not drive it in any inclement weather after having it suddenly let go on me one time. Might help to buy some Depends for when it happens.
Ralph
Would help to have 4wd and stick shift. Automatics are bad in snow/ice. If he got a stick shift, learn to double clutch it for very smooth downshifts. They can save you when slowing down in the snow. Cannot smoothly downshift an auto.
Put 4 to 6 bags of sand in the back, like others have suggested. Pickups are back for driving in snow or ice without weight in the rear.
Big vehicles are this are absolutely scary in snow or ice. They'll seemingly have good traction and then suddenly break into a skid. Drove our church van, an F350 "Econoline". It would do this. I absolutely would not drive it in any inclement weather after having it suddenly let go on me one time. Might help to buy some Depends for when it happens.
Ralph
Oaktree
Super Member
All good advice, especially about getting a 4WD. RWD trucks suck in the snow even with someone experienced in winter driving, with one who's never driven in snow it's a recipe for an accident. Not familiar with winters in Nebraska, but there's a reason people drive 4/AWD vehicles in snow country.
I would imagine especially so with newer vehicles with electronically controled ATs where there's no easy way to downshift, period.
That too. :thumbsup:
bunyip
Elite Member
We are required to carry chains where there is deep snow, also carry a long whip with a flag on the top so you can find your car if you get snowed in, I learned that one the hard way after spending two hours digging out the wrong car.
If you get caught in a drift and are covered turn the engine off, using the engine for the heater can cause carbon monoxide poisoning.
And, (we actually saw this, wish I had the video camera at the time) when you fit chains, make sure they are on the drive wheels, the one we saw was two young girls fitting chains to a Ford Laser on the back wheels (Ford Laser is a/was a rebadged Mazda 323).
With the auto, on mine I can push the stick sideways in drive and drive it like a manual, forward for up a gear, back for down and it displays on the dash.
If you get caught in a drift and are covered turn the engine off, using the engine for the heater can cause carbon monoxide poisoning.
And, (we actually saw this, wish I had the video camera at the time) when you fit chains, make sure they are on the drive wheels, the one we saw was two young girls fitting chains to a Ford Laser on the back wheels (Ford Laser is a/was a rebadged Mazda 323).
With the auto, on mine I can push the stick sideways in drive and drive it like a manual, forward for up a gear, back for down and it displays on the dash.
I have been impressed with the feedback so far. The only suggestion I question is carrying is carrying salt.
It is very helpful for sidewalks and driveways. It melts and breaks ice and snow pack, but takes way too long
to work for driving. It crushes and makes for a slicker surface with melted water. Gravel and coarse sand is
much better for traction. Also it corrodes metal and carrying it around for months in a vehicle is not a good idea.
Salt absorbes moisture becomes a brick in time.
Thanks Keep up the input.
Shift the transmission to neutral on slick down hill slopes. In drive, the heavier front end will lock up and the rear
wheels will still keep pushing.
It is very helpful for sidewalks and driveways. It melts and breaks ice and snow pack, but takes way too long
to work for driving. It crushes and makes for a slicker surface with melted water. Gravel and coarse sand is
much better for traction. Also it corrodes metal and carrying it around for months in a vehicle is not a good idea.
Salt absorbes moisture becomes a brick in time.
Thanks Keep up the input.
Shift the transmission to neutral on slick down hill slopes. In drive, the heavier front end will lock up and the rear
wheels will still keep pushing.
Practice fitting the snow chains BEFORE you need them.
Tow rope: where are the towing eyes?
:does the hook on the tow rope actually fit in the towing eye? You may need to get a load rated shackle large enough to fit the tow hook, and small enough to fit the towing eye.
Tow rope: where are the towing eyes?
:does the hook on the tow rope actually fit in the towing eye? You may need to get a load rated shackle large enough to fit the tow hook, and small enough to fit the towing eye.
jbrumberg
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Sand is much superior to clay based cat litter. Cat litter can get slippery when wet. I've had good luck with black oil sunflower seed. Sand is the best for weight and traction.