Winter traction.....

[Machold]

Not quite sure how this system works: I drive the screws into the lugs, and then the lugs go where? Onto a chain? Into the tire?
thx

Around here lots of snow contractors use truck studs on tractor tires.
(however in some regions vehicle weight limits stud use)

El Cheepo version is to use hardened self tapping sheetmetal screws that you simply screw into the big lugs (lots of debth to accept them). Works great on ice surfaces.
Simply predrill a small pilot hole and drive them in.
My buddy did that last winter and really likes the results, however he never drives on paved roads so they really lasted him well.

 

[Machold]

OK, into the tire, I presume. Will they stay in?

 

[studor]

I think the poker rules for tires on ICE are as follows
Studs in any type of tire beat any type of tire alone. Chains on any type of tire beats any type of tire alone. Chains on any type of tire beat studs in any type of tire. Chains on a two wheel drive will beat most unchained four wheel drive tires. Chains on a four wheel drive beat chains on a two wheel drive ---- get a set of chains -- why put holes in the treads of your tire? Once you get a slick set up for taking on and off the chains you will wonder why you did not do it before -- JMHO based on a long driveway with a hill in the middle that faces east west and is partially shaded (funny it seems to get icy)
Machold -- the studs or screws just screw into the lugs -- the rubber holds them very well

 

[artfull dodger]

any tire is worthless on pack snow and ice, including ags. I put chains on a pair of spare turf tires that are loaded, those are my winter tires for the tractor, normal size garden tractor chains and ags dont work as well as many of the chain sections fall down between the lugs and do nothing. I can see where studs would work well in an area with lots of icy conditions, but I would want them on a dedicated set of winter tires, the work to install and uninstall would get old fast. Chains you just take off and hang on the wall till next season.

 

[JJT]

Get a pair of double ring chains. Unbeatable traction in snow, ice and mud. They do make for a rough ride if you have to drive far to do the snow removal. I'll do the immediate neighbors, but will not go more than a 1/4 mile on the road with chains, it's just too rough a ride.

 

[Deadman]

I won't go on the road EVER, because the salt eats everything.

 

[BearKiller]

I won't go on the road EVER, because the salt eats everything.

AGREED.


I wish they would outlaw salt usage on highways and make people learn how to drive with some sense.

Around my area, we might get 1/2-inch of snow, once a winter, and it is gone by mid-morning; but, they will use enough salt to thaw out Chicago.

They salt the roads heavily whenever a light frost is predicted; and, by mid-December, big piles of loose salt are wind-rowed at every intersection; I'd rather drive on solid ice.

 

[Deadman]

I never understood why they can't use sand. Its cheap, gets heat from the sun, and is gritty.

 

[mwb]

I think studs are effective on ice but not nearly as effective in snow; you would be better off doing it right and getting chains. You could chain your fronts - less expensive and you have good steering (if 4x4). You would also have to be careful not to overload your front axle.

 

[chilibit]

I think studs are effective on ice but not nearly as effective in snow; you would be better off doing it right and getting chains. You could chain your fronts - less expensive and you have good steering (if 4x4). You would also have to be careful not to overload your front axle.

When you say overload the front axle, what do you mean? Torque loads?

I have a paved 1/4 mile drop on a slope that is hard to walk up. With ice it is a charmer with a 100 foot drop to one side and a mountain providing shade on the other. I need to plow it and I can with 4x4 and 8-10 inches of snow. The snow is my brake. But an inch of ice and I am not going there. So I was planning to run chains on the front only. The install is easy by lifting the front with the loader. I realize that this could create bind conditions since the fronts are not the same running circumference as the rears when in 4x4, but on traction surfaces I would go to 2WD and in the ice or mud, it is self policing. The fronts are cheaper and while I have a locker in the rear, I don't on the front axle.

But overload, I don't follow that. Any other thoughts on why my approach might be flawed?

Thanks.